SteveJ

It could be worse. I was looking at this site on Sunday with my phone, and one of the ads had a browser hijack. Fortunately deleting the data and cookies ended the problem, but it was still a PITA. Have you heard of anybody else getting a browser hijack from the ads, @Mike?

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-117-Electricians-True-Multimeter/dp/B000O3LUEI https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-115-Compact-True-RMS-Multimeter/dp/B000OCFFMW You can buy different kits with different leads, too. These are high quality meters that will last a long time. My Fluke is over 20 years old. If you want one that can be used as a tachometer for tuning/timing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-78-automotive-DVM/114457613333?hash=item1aa6349415:g:97YAAOSwYzBfgwF0

From what I saw during a quick look at ZCarDepot's site, it looks like they carry the Tabco panels. https://tabcoparts.com/cars/datsun/240z-260z-280z-1970-1978.html

I thought this video was interesting.

I decided to pull the trigger on a set today. Thanks for already giving me the tracking number, @Randalla.

Both, but I think they are different groups. I'm not sure how high the private trades are going, though.

Are you referring to when CO and I were discussing the GM coolant temperature sensor vs the Nissan cylinder head temperature sensor? That was when I was prepping for the fuel injection conversion on the 260Z. As @Zed Head pointed out, the curves for these sensors are not linear. For the CHTS, a resistor in series would keep the curve from moving the left. It would essentially stall out at the value of the resistor. A resistor in parallel would move the starting point of the curve to the right, but the effect could be diminished as the sensor resistance drops if the value of the external resistor was high (needed to keep the curve from starting too far to the right).

Yes, I'm thinking the park function in the motor may be the culprit.

That's what I get for reading posts on my phone and using my old bifocals. It sucks to get old. The alternative is worse. Anyway, that drier can be tossed. I suspect it really wasn't sealed tight, considering the duct tape, so it has seen more than a lifetime of moisture.

I think @S30Driver is correct. That looks like an AC driver to me, and it's definitely not stock.

Nice way to install the inertia switch on a 75-77.

The wiring for the 73 wiper circuit is very different from the other 240Zs. That was the first year for the intermittent wiper setting. I was trying to diagnose someone else's 73, and I found that the wiring diagram in the FSM didn't match the wiring in the car. The wiring for that circuit did match the 74 FSM, though. I suggest that you look at the BE section for the 74 to help you with diagnostics.

Is it a 73?

Sometimes adjusting the rockers can be a challenge. The pivot may also be worn, though I haven't taken enough of the hazard switches apart to know if that could be an issue.

What he said.

The OP's problem is with the hazard switch. If it was functioning correctly, it should switch off the turn signal switch. Since he says the left front flashes when the hazard switch and turn signal switch are on, the hazard switch is not cutting off the turn signal switch like it should. The rocker switch in the hazard switch isn't making good contact with that part of the circuit.

https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/13/early-hazard-switch/

You are correct. That's why I was suggesting the ignition switch at the beginning of the thread.

This is what I posted in the past on the seatbelt interlock relay:

While the seatbelt interlock was removed from the regulations, it was too late to remove it from production vehicles.

According to the parts manual, it should be part #13.

The scan for the 75 is missing sections. Download the 76 as well.

No voltage at the solenoid and no voltage at the coil would probably indicate the switch. That is the common point for both of those circuits with the problem existing with the key in START and ON. Also check your fusible links for corrosion. You should have two in your car. They are located on a black block that may have a white cover (or yellowed with age) near the battery. There will be either white wires or white with red stripe wires going up to the bottom of the block. AFM = Air Flow Meter switch - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1975,280z,2.8l+l6,1209204,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700

With the key in ON the fuel pump doesn't run unless the flap is open in the AFM. When measuring voltage at the coil, where did you put the probes? If you were touching the positive and negative terminals of the coil, you should see no voltage. With the lack of solid information, we can only just guess. The primary guess for me is the ignition switch. That is the module behind the key where the wiring harness connects.

It was brought up and discussed here in a different thread I like what they are doing with the car, and I'm just tired of the people crabbing about what they don't like about it. The reveal party at ZCON was electric. I'm really glad I could see the reveal with a bunch of Z car enthusiasts. My car even got into the reveal video at 17:58 and 18:50.