SteveJ

Sounds like he's from the Al Allen school of parts restoration.

There's some BS going on here. 13Ax14V=182W. I'm not sure whose backside produced a 13A figure. There are 2 (two/dos/zwei) 23W bulbs and a 3W bulb (on the gauge) in the circuit. Please invite the person who gave you that response to come here and show the testing. Until proved otherwise, I posit that someone is covering up for shoddy work. I am interested if someone can make me eat my words. I'll see if I can set up my scope with ammeter to look for transients that even come close to 13A

If only the left side is blinking with the hazard switch, that means you have another problem as both sides should be blinking with that switch.

Do you have power to anything when the key is in ACC or ON? Have you checked for voltage at the black/yellow wire for the starter solenoid when someone is holding the key in START? Start there and tell us what you find.

Has anybody worked on the wiring to "fix" a problem? Those "fixes" frequently involve finding some wire with voltage and tapping into that. The turn signals are powered through the ignition relay. If the key is not in ON, the ignition relay won't complete the circuit for the turn signals, As @Zed Head suggested, the next thing to look at would be the hazard lights. Normally if you pull the hazard switch that would kill the power to the turn signals. If the blinker is still going with the hazard switch disconnected, that would indicate some creative wiring has been done to the car. You can also pull the turn signal fuse to see if that kills the problem. If not, pull the hazard light fuse. The turn signal fuse is in blue, and the hazard light fuse is in red below. If neither fuse fixes the problem, that still points to creative wiring. More questions: How long have you owned the car? Have you experienced any other electrical glitches? Look under the dash on both sides and around the kick panels. Do any wires look like they have been spliced, cut, or otherwise altered? If so, look for wire colors (with stripes). Do you see any electrical tape that looks newer than the wiring harness?

Knowledge of 240Z wiring.

Another way is to go through the tachometer opening if your hands are small enough.

I don't believe that can happen for the North American market 240Z. The brake light and turn signals share the same bulb for the rears. Look at the turn signal switch. That's where it happens. You can make an adapter plug, but you have to add a wire for the brake lights.

GVWR is gross vehicle weight rating. That should be the maximum weight with passengers and luggage/cargo.

The 72 FSM has the colors. In @kats connector it does not show a Br or BrW wire. It shows two GW. This may be the correct orientation:

The 17 digit VIN didn't start on the Z line until 1981. As @Patcon mentioned, the VIN does not contain much in the way of a build code. For the 79 & 80, I'm not sure where the paint code was located. It might be a foil sticker on the radiator support, like the S30. It looks like later years of the ZX had the information you want on the plate in the engine bay. This site may be able to provide you with more information: https://www.xenonzcar.com/s130.html It has color codes for the interior and exterior: https://xenonzcar.com/s130/colorchart.html

Don't you know that most Koreans only speak Chinese?

Actually the picture and part number is from the front suspension parts microfiche that is on carpartsmanual.com. If it says Pathfinder, it's because they used the same part on it.

Part 46 NLA 46 ASSY-BUMPER BOUND 54050-E4101 L24-2 SEATER,2 SE ATER 2 54051-N3400 7409 2 54051-N3400 2+2 SEATER 7310 2

Part 49 49 ASSY-INSULATOR STRUT 54320-E4100 And still available from Nissan. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-insulator-strut~54320-e4100.html?vin=&make=Nissan&model=Frontier&year=2024&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(r=1686)

That was me who made that suggestion.

I used the two prong electronic flashers for a while after converting to LEDs. I found that some of them had spotty performance. After that I switched to 3 prong flashers and grounded the third prong. That has provided reliable performance for years.

I thought it was a shining analogy.

You can get a new Aisin WPN-013 water pump. I have no idea whether or not GMB was an OEM supplier, but Aisin is a Japanese based company that is a parts supplier for that country's automotive industry.

I'm not sure of the location on the 70/71. I think for 72, the body ground moved to frame rail. I'm pretty sure it's on the frame rail for the 73.

Just for completeness, the Nissan part number is 48750-E7705.

Also to replace the back of the module, you do NOT need to remove the ignition switch. You can unplug the harnesses for the combo switch and ignition, remove the 4 bolts from the steering column bracket and lower the steering column enough to get to the screws.

If the solenoid works fine, the likely problems are the module on the back of the ignition switch (2 screw modules may still be available from Nissan) or corrosion in the wiring.

Find a weather resistant maxi fuse (or ANL fuse) holder if you are planning to mount the fuse holder where the current fusible link holders reside. I also suggest using ferrules on the wire ends to improve clamping force on the wires. You will need to find a ferrule crimper that can handle the wire sizes (relatively easy to find on Amazon). Here is an example of a marine ANL fuse holder: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_867FUSEDIS/Wet-Sounds-WWX-FUSE.html