SteveJ

Just to pile on...Lead acid batteries work because of the semi-reversible chemical reaction. The lead plates eventually react with the sulfuric acid to produce lead sulfate since that compound has a lower energy state. The speed and finality of the reaction is dependent upon how much and how long you discharge the battery. Eventually semi-reversible becomes irreversible. So why does capacity drop so much with little changes in voltage? Think of battery as a water tower. The pressure is proportional to the height of the water tower. As this particular water tower gets older, the inside is getting filled with sediment, and the sediment is also going down the pipe and sticking to the inside of the pipe. When you measure the water pressure (voltage), it still looks good, but with the pipe out of the water tower getting clogged, you don't get any water flow (current). Since the inside of the tank is also filled with sediment, the water empties quickly, and you have no pressure. (The voltage goes to zero.)

Actually, 1.6kVA is the rating on the welder itself. The max rating for clamping is 269 lbs, per the label. With 220VAC and 30A input, I doubt the output could be 15kVA. The max input kVA is 6.6.

Unless there is someone on this board who is familiar with Italian motor vehicle law and requirements, your best bet is to research what the requirements typically are so that someone may be able to help you find information specific to the 280ZX.

A Skyline was selected as Car of the Show at the Atlanta Caffeine and Octane today. Sorry for those who do not use the evil FB. I haven't been able to find a similar video on YouTube.

I can attest that the passenger seat in that 240Z is fully functional. However, the belts don't cinch down very well. At least we weren't going at speed that day.

Try contacting Alan at https://vintagezparts.com/. He might be interested.

To add to @Namerow's post, that would be 20 AWG wire. It might be easier to find that way. https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-316L-Gauge-Wire/dp/B07CJLTNR4

I would guess that the normal fittings were replaced with banjo fuel fittings. I was thinking about doing this to my SUs before I converted them to throttle bodies.

Or what is more likely is that Iran did its token response and will milk the propaganda for what it is worth. https://www.newsweek.com/iran-says-it-has-concluded-its-response-us-strike-does-not-seek-escalation-1480956

From Facebook: Nashville Z Car Convention registration is now... LIVE! To register at our super early bird rate, go to www.ZCON.org! Use code: EARLYBIRD15 to save $15 dollars now off each registration.

I know I speak for all the users here, @Mike. We really appreciate all of what you and the moderators do to keep this site going. I have learned a lot here and have made several friends because of this forum. Keep up the good work.

He's not so bad when he has the fastest car in the class. He's been at the front at many Mitty races.

Yes.

Brian was driving the yellow car.

That's the way John and Randy saw it. It was Brian Johnson driving the car.

What models are the same with respect to what parts? Different parts have different answers.

Charles, don't stress about it. If you think you'll be doing much in the way of AC current measurement, get the package with the 323. If you think you will be doing DC current measurement, I stand by my earlier recommendations. I have no complaints about my 20 year old Fluke (a pre-116 version of the HVAC meter). If you are worried about the meter capabilities, then go with the 87V. Here it is with the AC current clamp: https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-FLUKE-87-V-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B004HDUNQ2. Yes, it's pricey, but it's hard to beat the capabilities.

https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0608014/?ref_=ttfc_fc_cl_t44

One way you could try is to get an oil pressure sender like this: BECK/ARNLEY 2011170. It's for a 78, and it has two terminals. One is for the oil pressure sender, and the other is a switch to ground when there is oil pressure. You would run a switched source to FPR1 and ground it at the oil pressure switch. If the engine dies, the coil de-energizes. Another way is to use a switched source for FPR1 and include an inertia switch in the circuit. The safest way is to combine those two ideas.

Ah, but now you have a much better idea of where to look should it happen again.

That's what sites like Digi Key are for: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-electric-works/CB1-R-12V/255-2161-ND/646987

These flasher relays are as quiet as a church mouse. You could always splice in a piezo buzzer. The positive on the buzzer would be on the downstream side of the relay, and the negative would be grounded. It would be hard to ignore a 90dB buzzer.

The first place to check the voltage on the yellow wire is at the voltage regulator. Do not expect it to be 12VDC. As a matter of fact, I am fairly sure it is the neutral of the alternator. It will probably be around 8 VDC or a little higher at its peak (I used 14VDC as the alternator voltage instead of the 12VDC that @Captain Obviousused.). (And the good Captain was already finishing up his reply as I started mine.) As was mentioned, the 400RPM is only a rough guideline. When starting the car, you usually have the choke pulled up, and the idle speed will be higher. That usually means a higher voltage being generated by the charging system. There is a table on EE-23 that shows the voltage at different temperatures (prior to solid state regulators). The voltage at the N terminal should be about the square root of 3 lower. Now I'm going to have to check this at home...Thanks guys for giving me more to do. ?

That was one of the things that prompted my initial purchase. I think I saw a post by Tony D over on Zcar.com mentioning adjustable rate flashers. I thought my old flasher relays were too fast (though not hyperflashing), and I thought I'd give it a try. These relays also do not require a separate ground wire like some of the other electronic flashers do. These two pin relays are plug-and-play.