SteveJ

Look through the 74 BE section and wiring diagrams. They should be available on this site. I was helping a friend with his 73 when I realized that the wiring I saw didn't match the 73 FSM. I then compared it to the 74 FSM and found that it matched up better.

This looks promising for those of us who like to choose our own gears.

$5.98 at Home Depot. $5.60 at Lowes.

Another reason you should consider the Dawson County/Forsyth County option. There are plenty of good Z people who would be willing to lend a hand.

Check to make sure the resistor is still plugged into the tachometer circuit.

No, hence unobtainium - A substance that cannot be obtained.

Year? It helps to narrow down what I'm looking for in my collection.

Unobtainium This is about as close as you will find: http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/YPC/ypc.html

Another sneak peek. I'm looking forward to Tuesday.

Well, I was able to confirm what my wife noticed in the ZCON emails. John Morton won't be coming out to ZCON, though Pete Brock will be there.

So, the local Caffeine & Octane decided to feature Japanese cars among others in the main lot. (It's not unusual for 2500+ cars to show up monthly.) Several Z car owners signed up and parked in the lot. Afterward, we also did a group photo with the Z owners who stuck around.

Got it.

I thought you said it was a 72. That year doesn't have any EFI components.

The parts catalog only lists one part number for the 240Z for the headlight assembly. The same applies for all of the parts in the sub-assemblies.

Are you sure they aren't swapped around or mounted improperly?

And if you're wondering where to get a new ignition switch (back portion) https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700

What do you mean by "no current"? I asked you to check voltage to ground. How do you know the swapped module is good? Could you tell if the key was turning the module?

Likely suspects include the ballast resistor, tachometer, and ignition switch. This diagnosis assumes the car to be stock. Put the key in the ON position. Use a voltmeter to measure voltage to ground at each terminal on the ballast resistor. If one side does not have voltage to ground, replace the ballast resistor. If neither side has voltage, the problem is with the module in the back of the ignition switch. If both sides have voltage, then lift the negative wire off of the coil. Measure voltage to ground on positive side of the coil. If you do not have voltage, the problem is the tachometer. Check to make sure the tachometer is firmly connected to the dash harness.

That's a red wire?

Green wire? That may be the EFI fusible link.

What year?

Well, the fuse is a 20A fuse. In my practice, I usually try to fuse 14AWG wire at 10A or less. If there was a dead short somewhere, most of the wire could have burned up before the fuse blew. You'll need to follow the breakouts in the BE section to see where you can still find voltage in the circuit. Start with making sure you voltage to ground at both contacts for the parking light circuit on the headlight switch. Work your way downstream toward the lights. While you said you replaced the headlight switch, did you test it to make sure it was good before you installed it?

Nope, it tells me you have some current flowing somewhere. Make sure your rheostat isn't turned all of the way down, making your dash lights dim.

In the BE section of the FSM, you will find a nice breakout of the "clearance" light circuit. Measure the voltage on the top right fuse with the switch off. If the voltage is good, turn the switch on, and measure the voltage. If the voltage dropped, you have a bad connection at the fuse box or probably the fusible link. See the discussion between myself and @Captain Obviousin this thread:

I stand corrected. I found a picture on this site for the turn signals on a 280Z tachometer.