SteveJ

And he's a good source of information, too. Post photos of what you do. It could help someone in the future.

The biggest advantage of YouTube is that anyone who wants to watch does not have to worry about finding the right player to see your video.

Contact Vintage Connections or Eastern Beaver. Both of those companies specialize in connectors for Japanese motorcycles, but a lot of those connectors were also used in Japanese cars.

Upload it to YouTube and share a link. It should embed just fine. That is what I usually do.

I wonder if the product sold by MSA is the same way. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic01c/40-2519

My guess is that it wasn't on the tank they had available as a model. I looked at the FSM FE section and the photos they have of their tank. I'm not sure which line is not included.

I suggest asking Chet for some close-up looks at his cars.

Non-FB link: https://s30.world/product/fuel-tank-fits-all-s30s-till-7-1973

It wouldn't hurt to reach out to them and ask. I know at least one of the guys working for them likes Z cars. Maybe the love is there for the 510. You may need to tell them which items you need and quantities. I usually order extra pins myself, just in case a crimp isn't as solid as I like.

Let me know if you want to take a look at my car sometime. I am running Konig Rewinds 16x7s.

I've been a loyal customer for many years, but they are under new ownership. One of the new products they came out with is a Yamaha connector. This 6-pin connector has the round pins found on the meters for a 260Z/280Z. @S30Driver used those on a car he was working on.

They posted an image of the list of connectors in the kit.

Or if you own or work on multiple Zs. I did comment on the Facebook post to ask if they could make a list of what's in the kit. Of course, it doesn't have the dash harness to engine harness connectors for a 73.

Fantastic photos @five&dime!

I just saw a link to this on Facebook: http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/180?fbclid=IwAR0HVhjrJgKGzxMYHPycwJpWO9Ap0gIyhjS4IIK0YQlwjk7P7wnjk2GxvN0 It could be helpful to someone who needs to repair electrical connections in his/her Z.

Finally had a car show that wasn't cancelled. I just wish it could have been when the temperature was below average.

@siteunseen is the master of searching on this site. There is also this thread that talks about LED headlight installation:

We would need to do some experimenting. Let me know when you're up for it.

I read the FSM and put in that amount. I just make sure there is a way to let air out the breather as I fill through it.

I cheated and filled through the breather.

I changed the oil in the 260Z today. That was just the warmup for the real work. I bought some of Derek's 280Z speaker enclosures a couple of months ago. (https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/53157-280z-kick-panel-speaker-pods-in-development/) I got them for my 260Z knowing that there would be some modifications. I had to cut away some material at the top front of the driver side enclosure to clear the hood release cable, and I had to cut away some material at the top of the back of the passenger side enclosure to clear the fuse box. Otherwise, I didn't have to modify them much. I did use some wide strips of velcro to help secure the enclosures to the kick panels. Now I just have to finish wiring the speakers to the stereo.

These posts may help you:

I don't know what brand MSA is selling, but RockAuto had Timken bearings. That's what I put in mine per the recommendation of a friend who has been working on Z cars for 30+ years.

I took the 260Z on a local "Maskparade" tour. I had the only old Japanese car out there, and it did draw some attention before the tour started. However, many more people came by after we were done. It was fun to get it out on the roads, and it drove so well.

The first things to do: Check the fuse as @zKarspointed out. Consider trying to clean the fuse contacts. (Disconnect the battery before attempting this.) Roll up a small piece of 800 to 1000 grit sandpaper and rub it where the fuse box holds the fuse, or use a wire brush on a dremel tool. Take apart connectors C-3, C-4, and C-5 and spray them liberally with contact cleaner such as Caig Deoxit. They could have seen some corrosion from water infiltration.