SteveJ

You probably will need to cut the springs to height. When I first put the springs in there, it looks like I was trying to create a 4x4 Datsun. This thread may help you: https://www.zcar.com/threads/chevette-coil-spring-swap-on-280z.349281/

Chevette springs are relatively easy to do. I did them on my 260Z. It might take a couple of test fittings to get the height where you want it. They are pretty firm as far as springs go.

You might try going to the member map (https://www.classiczcars.com/membermap/) and seeing who lives near there and see if those members have been online lately. Then you could reach out via PM. That might help you get a positive response.

After doing the Patton Machine fuel injection, I wish I could have done the conversion with the flat tops years ago when I had them. I bet they would have made good throttle bodies.

There are many very knowledgeable people in the area that have taught me a LOT about the S30s. I am pretty well versed in the electrical systems, too. If you are willing to get your hands greasy and bust a knuckle every now and again, there's a good chance people will help you help yourself. Some of them also have good parts hoards when you need a part that is NLA. Last summer, I converted a set of carburetors into throttle bodies to change my 260Z over to fuel injection. This may be the best area in the Southeast to learn about first generation cars.

Thanks for tagging me, @Zed Head. First, I suggest having someone look over the car. I might be able to help you develop a plan, depending upon where in the ATL you live. As Zed said, it is important to know how much you want to do.

That would make it a 78.

Let's call the title: "The Search Function" That way if someone asks about parts you can reply, "Go to The Search Function," or "Find The Search Function"

Well, the parts manual pretty much covers this topic...

@borini63 - Do you have a spare crank shaft pulley?

I this case the build date is everything. I'm guessing the build date is 9/77 or later. The plate in the door jamb should tell you if it hasn't been removed or damaged.

You can get stats on your videos whether or not people subscribe. I have a channel that consists mostly of Z videos, though I don't really pay much attention to stats or subscribers. For me it's a way to share some of my Z car experiences and other things I think are cool. I think if you are popular enough, you can get monetized, getting a cut of what YouTube makes from advertisers.

Google can find the answers to almost anything: https://itstillworks.com/benefits-subscribing-youtube-8730193.html

I think you get notifications of new videos. I'm not sure if those notifications are emailed to you or just show up when you log in to YouTube.

By the way, the stock position for the positive terminal is toward the fender, not toward the engine. I have the stock hold-down and 24 series battery fitting without issues.

I would look at what local sources, like Chet, have if you want to go that route. I put the shiny bumpers on my well-aged 73. I didn't care that they are far nicer than the rest of the car, but I gave away the bumpers that came off that car a long time ago.

Any chance of sharing the spreadsheet itself?

Part #57 As expected, NLA The door molding was added on by someone, dealer or previous owner. It probably has screws or rivets.

What's missing from the back of the Z in the paddock is the piece that goes above the bumper on the later cars. That's what made me think it was the 240Z. The Parkinson 280Z still has that piece that goes above the bumper. Also look at this closer photo taken at the same event. You can see the indentations on the rear quarter panel for the 240Z bumpers (gone after the early 260Z), and it looks like there is a latch on the fuel filler door. Maybe Parkinson had to replace the rear panel at some time and opted for the 280Z panel. Here is a contemporary photo of the Parkinson 280Z I took December 2018. You can see the smooth quarter panel and trim piece that is above the rear bumper.

The paddock pictures are the 240Z. The track pictures are the 280Z.

The 73 wiring diagram might help more with that circuit. The defroster relay is show in it.

You have to type Roadster into the search box. I don't know why they tuck it away like they do. https://www.wescoperformance.com/roadster-seat-belt-chrome.html

I don't advise re-using the webbing. It could be stretched from a previous accident or so old that it will break before it stretches enough. How period correct are you trying to be? Several of us have installed the roadster seatbelts sold by Wesco Performance. https://www.wescoperformance.com/seatbelts.html

I broke out of quarantine today to go over to work on a gentleman's Z. He is in his 70s and is planning on selling it because he can no longer get in and out easily. The car isn't in bad shape, but it has suffered from benign neglect. The car is a nice specimen to work on, and it helps me maintain my proficiency while I mentally prepare to work on my 240Z. I replaced the fuel pump that was leaking. Thanks to the thread from @David Downs, I realized I need to prime the pump. Lacking a handy fuel can, I got some Sea Foam and primed the pump that way. Once it was primed, it worked a lot better. After adjusting the idle and carburetors, I found a leak on the front carb, coming from the hose between the float bowl and carburetor. I didn't have my replacement hose with me, so I will have to go back another day to fix that. The car also needs an oil change. I noticed fuel going from the pump into the engine when I pulled the bad pump. The level on the dipstick was high. I told the owner I would change the oil at his place so he doesn't have to drive the car like that. I hope to help the owner get a good selling price on the car.

Z Car Garage is about an hour away in San Jose.