SteveJ

I love the claims about patents considering that design is very common.

Are you kidding? This place is full of nuts.

Make sure you have the polarity right on the matchbox terminals. The positive goes to coil positive, and the negative goes to coil negative.

Did you happen to check for voltage on the black/white wire on the ballast resistor with the key in ON? What is the resistance between the engine block and battery negative? If you run the hot wire to the coil, measure voltage to ground on coil to negative while someone else is cranking the engine. You should see it at 12VDC+ and periodically drop when the ignition system connects it to ground. Also I can't remember, are you using points or an electronic ignition?

If you can get to Harbor Freight tomorrow, here's a coupon for the large and small picks: https://go.harborfreight.com/coupons/2025/07/184225-69592/

Get a couple of 90 degree picks, 1 large & 1 small. Round off the tips so you don't poke through the hose. First, work the small one around the lip of the hose to break it loose. Then, follow up with the larger one. After you break the adhesion, put some silicon grease on the larger pick and work it around again. Try the tongue-and-groove pliers to twist back and forth until it breaks free.

You need to use the more options feature. At that point you can put in a date range. You probably also need to experiment with the search terms. I think I found what you're looking for this time: https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?&q=%22door%20trim%22&quick=1&updated_before=1735603200&updated_after=1609459200&sortby=newest&search_and_or=and

@Mike Lately when I try to use the Report function for the spammers, I click on the Report button and just get the Windows spinning wheel of death. Is the function working?

Hazard switch test: Remove the hazard switch. Use the ohmmeter function on the meter. (I hope it's not just a voltmeter.) Look at which pins correspond to the green/blue, green/red, and green black wires. Turn the hazard switch on. Measure the resistance between the pins that line up to the green/blue and green/red wires on the dash harness. (Note, the switch may have wires with different colors.) Record the result. Measure the resistance between the pins that line up to the green/blue and green/black wires on the dash harness. Record the result. Report the results of this test. Turn signal test: Put your meter on DC voltage. Reinstall the hazard switch and ensure it is off. Turn the key to ON. You don't need to start the car. Find the flasher relay that has a green/yellow wire and white wire running to it. Disconnect the flasher relay. Measure voltage to ground at the green/yellow wire. Record the result and report your reading.

Was the hazard switch plugged in when you tested? Flasher units? You probably need to test the hazard switch. Do you know how to use a multimeter?

Sounds like he's from the Al Allen school of parts restoration.

There's some BS going on here. 13Ax14V=182W. I'm not sure whose backside produced a 13A figure. There are 2 (two/dos/zwei) 23W bulbs and a 3W bulb (on the gauge) in the circuit. Please invite the person who gave you that response to come here and show the testing. Until proved otherwise, I posit that someone is covering up for shoddy work. I am interested if someone can make me eat my words. I'll see if I can set up my scope with ammeter to look for transients that even come close to 13A

If only the left side is blinking with the hazard switch, that means you have another problem as both sides should be blinking with that switch.

Do you have power to anything when the key is in ACC or ON? Have you checked for voltage at the black/yellow wire for the starter solenoid when someone is holding the key in START? Start there and tell us what you find.

Has anybody worked on the wiring to "fix" a problem? Those "fixes" frequently involve finding some wire with voltage and tapping into that. The turn signals are powered through the ignition relay. If the key is not in ON, the ignition relay won't complete the circuit for the turn signals, As @Zed Head suggested, the next thing to look at would be the hazard lights. Normally if you pull the hazard switch that would kill the power to the turn signals. If the blinker is still going with the hazard switch disconnected, that would indicate some creative wiring has been done to the car. You can also pull the turn signal fuse to see if that kills the problem. If not, pull the hazard light fuse. The turn signal fuse is in blue, and the hazard light fuse is in red below. If neither fuse fixes the problem, that still points to creative wiring. More questions: How long have you owned the car? Have you experienced any other electrical glitches? Look under the dash on both sides and around the kick panels. Do any wires look like they have been spliced, cut, or otherwise altered? If so, look for wire colors (with stripes). Do you see any electrical tape that looks newer than the wiring harness?

Knowledge of 240Z wiring.

Another way is to go through the tachometer opening if your hands are small enough.

I don't believe that can happen for the North American market 240Z. The brake light and turn signals share the same bulb for the rears. Look at the turn signal switch. That's where it happens. You can make an adapter plug, but you have to add a wire for the brake lights.

GVWR is gross vehicle weight rating. That should be the maximum weight with passengers and luggage/cargo.

The 72 FSM has the colors. In @kats connector it does not show a Br or BrW wire. It shows two GW. This may be the correct orientation:

The 17 digit VIN didn't start on the Z line until 1981. As @Patcon mentioned, the VIN does not contain much in the way of a build code. For the 79 & 80, I'm not sure where the paint code was located. It might be a foil sticker on the radiator support, like the S30. It looks like later years of the ZX had the information you want on the plate in the engine bay. This site may be able to provide you with more information: https://www.xenonzcar.com/s130.html It has color codes for the interior and exterior: https://xenonzcar.com/s130/colorchart.html

Actually the picture and part number is from the front suspension parts microfiche that is on carpartsmanual.com. If it says Pathfinder, it's because they used the same part on it.

Part 46 NLA 46 ASSY-BUMPER BOUND 54050-E4101 L24-2 SEATER,2 SE ATER 2 54051-N3400 7409 2 54051-N3400 2+2 SEATER 7310 2

Part 49 49 ASSY-INSULATOR STRUT 54320-E4100 And still available from Nissan. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-insulator-strut~54320-e4100.html?vin=&make=Nissan&model=Frontier&year=2024&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(r=1686)

That was me who made that suggestion.