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About 240zadmire

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    South Orange County, CA

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  1. Greeting, I observe a weird problem. Recently, I upgrade the headlights with dapperlighting OE7. I'm using the input from the passenger side by tap in to the connector from the body to the passenger side headlight. I also follow various guidelines to add 2 relay for high/low beams and only single fuse from the battery to the whole assembly. The light is wayyyyyyyy brighter than the stock. I feel much "safer" driving at night. My eyes might play trick on me but the dash lights for the speedometer and tachometer actually brighter, I think. They're LED. The other ga
  2. Btw, my tires are 195/70/r14 with r200 diff. The tires probably made some different but I don’t know what was the stock tires. But 1 mph error margins is precise enough for me.
  3. I did a trial and error and got the white, 19 tooth cog. The speedometer is approximately 1 mph slower. But I think it’s because I couldn’t keep my foot steady. I’m a happy camper. I know little things like this annoyed me 😉 thanks for all the suggestions
  4. It’s fixed but I don’t know if what I did actually fix it or by accident… intraced red/black stripe, red/white stripe and green/black stripe to each connector such as C6 BLACK, C9 WHITE and to the headlamp terminals for continuity …. They all have continuity on those wires. I believe the ohms for the red stripes were 1.1 and 1.2 ohms respectively. While I was proving for connectivity test on C9, I accidentally touch other terminal and case a small spark. That is the only noticeable I made. Reconnect firmly and seem like both low and high are working as expected. Still, I have no
  5. The year is on the subject line. It’s ‘77. I’ll measure it shortly stay tune
  6. Yes. The halogen h4. don’t know if they are related but most of the interior dash light bulbs including the dome light are LED except the fuel empty indicator
  7. Did the continuity test one red with black stripe against black and red with white stripe against black and has continuity when switching between high/low. I trace the wire diagram and the only missing is the inhibitor. But isn’t inhibitor is for automatic transmission? the low beam head lights both went bad the same time? I might need to get a new head lamp just for testing?
  8. Well, I took off the multi switches and did a thorough cleaning. I dismantled everything on the signal blinkers side but to no avail. I even try to jump the black and one of the red with yellow/white stripe but low beam just won’t work. Possibly the headlight low beams dead? Strange if they both dead simultaneously . Fuses are good. 12 volts at the connectors at the headlights. any thought?
  9. Hello folks, a while back I had issued with low headlights not working and thought the culprit was the battery terminal not firmly secure…. Well, the symptom resurface again. I made sure all terminal are connected firmly. High beams work fine but not low beam. I have the pen test light that connect to a negative and the pen connect to any of the 3 terminal at the head light terminals, seem to have light. My voltmeter is dead as I the battery is dead 😉 can you explain how do I read the diagram below . do I need to connect the red with black stripe to negative to
  10. Seem like my 5 speed is from a transmission type “B”. If I turn the pinion housing upside down, then the gear bites the internal worm gears. For testing, I “manufacturing” a lock washer to hold it in. The interesting thing is the speedometer is about 3-4 mph faster. So, I’m having a dilemma. The original pinion was 20 teeth and odometer is ~5mph slower. The 17 teeth pinion is ~3-4mph faster. I either need to get a blue, 18 or white, 19 teeth. the numbers stamped on the r200 shoe that my ratio should be 3.54. what do you guys think? 18 or 19? I’m leaning toward 19
  11. Well, I ordered a black version of 17 teeth and guess what? It is much smaller than the red one. Take a look at the photos. Is there more than one black 17 teeth? The black I received is about 20mm vs 24mm wide for the red one. please advice.
  12. Greeting folks, Got a chance to re-lubricate the speedometer cable and other things bother me as the mileage doesn’t seem match with the google map. Got curious, drove different car with same route and my minivan milage agreed with what google map. My Z is short a few miles. On top of that, the speed, mph is ~5 miles slower. I download the app from Apple store to measure…. got curious, did the 10 tire rotations as well as the one complete rotation and see where the shaft pointed to… both agree to be shy of 17 revolution and 3 o’clock mark. So the diff ratio is about 3.36.
  13. You’re right. Looked back at old photos and there it is. Got the hose hook to the tube and it actually quite a bit of condensation. Probably about 2 full spoons of water when park in the garage.
  14. Greeting! I skimmed the gym’s sauna last could of months by using my sauna on wheel but can’t stand it anymore. When the car is moving I guess it’s bearable, but boy, people saw me wipe sweat off of my face at red lights … I can see their sympathies in their eyes…. below was how I did it. Hopefully it can help somebody learn from my experience or avoid my mistakes. Keep in mind I’m not a mechanic let alone AC specialist. the R12 to R134a valves conversion do not work. Parts are below All I did was remove the caps and screw the new valves on top of the old
  15. After relighted the negative post, low/high lights magically come back to live and work again. No need to replace anything. 😉
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