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About 240zadmire

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    South Orange County, CA

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  1. After relighted the negative post, low/high lights magically come back to live and work again. No need to replace anything. 😉
  2. This issue happened to my 280z ‘77 once. Engine died at stoplight but fire up immediately. I didn’t pay much attention back then. Thought it was just a rare one off occurrence. Weeks later as I haven’t drive the car for at least 4 weeks, I couldn’t start the car at all. No ignition engage, no clicking of the starter … spends hours troubleshoot. Battery was good…. Cabin lights turn on…. Head lamp works for high beams but not low beams. I’ve been driving with high beams for weeks thought that the headlamps are on its way out… just haven’t got time to get around to replace them as I don’
  3. Hi all, Recently pass smog test. Been enjoying it every chance I get. Even volunteer to do errands for wife just so I can drive it!!!! I've notice the steering wheel can only make one full circle and the "distance/length" of the tire doesn't cover much. to put it into perspective, I'm having trouble making a 2 lands U-turn. What I mean is the other day I at McDonald's drive through, I had trouble making a right U-turn. My Van and sedan seem able to make a right U-turn quite easily. Of course it inches outside toward the other land a bit, but not as much as the Datsu
  4. Ladies and Gents, it’s a wonderful day today. My Datsun has finally pass the smog test. Last night I readjusted the valves and was careful to have all within the same “resistance” when sliding in the feeler. Took the fuel pressure test again using different rental showed 30psi at idle... drove the car at least 30 miles on freeway before brought her in... the rest is history. much appreciate all the suggestions and guidances from everyone. We will deal with this again in 2 years . 😉 but for now I’m a enjoying it. more other little things here and there but at l
  5. Come to think of it, the vacuum hose to the original FPR wasn’t tight enough. That explains when I open the oil cap, rpm lower but not stumble and die. With the tight vacuum hose and the ‘78 FPR, open the oil cap made the engine stumbled and die. However, oil dip made no different. Does that means the vacuum now tight? No more leak? I’ll have to see the CSV once more time
  6. Well, got the ‘78 fuel rail and regulator. It actually a bit worse. Without solenoid/cranking the car, 42ish PSI and 34PSI on idle. another thing “weird” is that open the oil cap, the car takes few seconds before it starts to stumble and die. Also, the original, ‘77 fuel regulator, the vacuum hose to the intake manifold was not sealed completely on the intake manifold. There is quite a suction on that hose too. also, I did jump the wire on the altitude switch. I can’t tell the different on the engine sound/exhaust smell where the jumped wire work or not. the exhaust s
  7. Look like all information from other forums also pointing to connecting the wires together. There’s not much info otherwise. What indicator to know the jump wires take effect? Higher/lower rpm? regards
  8. @Zed Head Your brain cannot go on holiday right now! There is a screw at the end. For sure it is for adjusting. And there is a lock screw with a white paint marked. I suppose that is a lock screw and was set at factory. the wire schematic showed like a switch... but you already know what is it. Very interesting. I’m glad the problem give you some challenge. I have zero clue 😉
  9. Sound like there is a high tension spring inside the switch. Gently hitting it on your palm can be heard the tension of the spring
  10. @Dave WM my dad was a hard working farmer, retired many years now.... And I don’t make that much money... kakakakaka. All of these toys are out of my reach. I don’t even know what they are let alone their usage 😉. Learn new thing every day.... this is what I’m going to do, while car is in idle, hot jump the wire. Hope I won’t screw other stuff
  11. You have a lot of toys, wish I could be your neighbor kikikiki need more reading to whether to screw in or out ....
  12. well, you'll need to buy another car with all sort of California "junk" on it, so you can help all of us out 😉 it's 5 pm on Friday and I'm still at work. aaaahhhh
  13. @Zed Head thanks for the pointer. Look like I need to make a jump from pin 9 and 12 to turn the altitude “ON”. The idle should lower a bit. Does that affect the RPM? If you need to maintain 800RPM, don’t you need to advance it a degree to compensate? Then what are we trying to achieve ? I’m sorry, I’m (a lot) dense. Please explain thanks
  14. @Zed Head, @Dave WM et all, yes, there is an altitude thingy dangling/mount under the steering wheel. I will take a look at it later. very interesting to learn at different altitude the car behave differently. Where I live, the elevation is about 490 feet. Why California models always have this "special" treatment. Other states don't have hills/valleys? regards
  15. Don’t we all!? But again, some say money won’t bring happiness. I just need enough so that when the deliver guy knock the door or when wife looks at the billing statements, she won’t freak out, too much. I’m very close. Everything seem to be within specs. The FPR is a bit out is spec as noted by ZH and in the FSM. I’m pretty confident the vacuum is tight. The questionable one might be the EGR pipe from the intake to the exhaust manifold. I broke the original one and luckily to found the 78 one. I had to put an adapter thread to connect to it. I will check again at that area
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