Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About 240zadmire

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Another finding, doesn’t look like oil pressure sending unit has continuity. I took it off the engine and one pin on a terminal and the other on the body and got 115 number. Usually if there is a continuity, i get a continuous beep. Check the resistant and I got 89 ohms. could that be it? regards
  2. It’s a 7 pins AFM and the oil is one pin connector. regards
  3. Hello all, put a few squirt of engine starting fluid, start the engine and it fires up right away. Please see the video. As soon as the fume is done, engine stops as expected. Please see the video. regards IMG_1301.MOV
  4. Hi all, apologies if I miss state the current situation. - the car crank up - there sparks on each spark plug - direct wire connect to fuel pump, the pump spin - fusible links have continuity - starter works hence sparks on spark plugs - turn the key to on, a noise coming out from AFM connect voltmeter to fuel pump while turning the key to start got zero volt. That’s why I start from to trouble shoot why there is no power to the fuel pump. i will keep digging from the manual to find info. I’ll be honest, tracing wire diagrams and the symbols like relay is pretty tough for me. The answer is all there. It just doesn’t make much sense to me is all. I’ll keep looking but if you have more info, please help. @Zed Head I’m not offended that easy. If I don’t know, I don’t know. Remember you help me the other day with the brake could not hold pressure!? It’s only easy if someone point it out what you did wrong. It would take me days if not weeks to figure it out. But once you explained, made perfect sense and I thank you for that. I learned something. regards
  5. @Dave WM History of the car was that it sat for 10+ years. Was running very before it sat there, previous owner stated. Bought and able to get it working and confirmed still very rough on idle. Replace all vacuum hoses and clean up all electric connectors where possible. Seem to fix it. However, after a drive when put back in neutral at stop light, high rpm stayed for at least 20 seconds before idle normal. long story short, few rust here and there, paint faded... pull the engine to fix the rust.... and we all know, one thing led to another, couple of years gone by, all rust spots fixed and paint inside out.... put the car back to where it rightfully... and now I’m trouble shooting it. must be some ground/wire broken somewhere. I don’t know. regards
  6. @Zed Head and all, Just before I left for work, I did the below: I move the AFM flap all the way to the left and check pin 20. Set voltmeter to continuity test and got something like 572. Not sure what that mean. Look at the circuit diagrams, seem like CSV and Thermotimer are connected in parallel. I traced the circuit between the CSV and Thermotimer, one pin on CSV and the other on thermotimer and seem to have continuity. repeat the same steps for the other pin and also got the continuity. I did replace all the fuel injection connectors as they wore out. I was very careful about which pin for which side. I also did replace the connector for the thermotimer and the coolant temperature. I did not replace the CSV and Auxiliary connectors as I ran out of connector. I was very careful about the which wire goes to which. Hopefully I didn't screw up somewhere by connect positive to negative wires. I will check again when I get back home. Thank you all for the help. will keep everyone posted. regards
  7. Hi car is early 1977 280z I recently put back the car after take it out for painting interior, engine bay. When turn ignition to on I hear no sound on the fuel pump. what I did: - connect direct power from battery to the 2 wire on the passenger side and hear fuel pump. Which means pump is good. Check continuity from the wire to the relay connector is good. - check the continuity base on the fuel injector bible on pin 20 against ground, no continuity. - ignition coil and spark plugs has electrical. funny thing is that both the pins of the cold start valve are positive. I connect positive pin from the voltmeter to battery and the negative to any pin has 12 volts. what did I do wrong? Some wire definitely messup thanks
  8. You sir or madam Zed Head, you’ve live up to your name. I’ve switch the calipers around so that the bleed screws upward. It works like a charm. I’ve struggle for couple of days and you made it seem so simple. Much much appreciated regards
  9. Hi Zed Head, The car is early 1977. I think the build date was July. you’re right the bleed screws are on the bottom and the big reservoir is for the front calipers. Makes perfect sense as gravity will pull the fluid down no matter how you bleed it. Only way can bleed successfully would have to hang the car bottom up to the ceiling or flip it upside down. I will switch calibers after kids are in bed and will update status thanks
  10. Hi, apologies for not being clear. the car was sitting for years. Before I disassemble to work on the car, it was working. However, a lot of dirt in the master cylinder. I took it apart and clean it with brake cleaning aerosol. I did not bench bleed it. I put back and bleed the master cylinder as it mounted on the car. i went ahead and bleed the other drums and disk as mentioned above. Brake very soft afterward and I notice moist on the low brake boost. Open it up and notice wetness there. I mean you feel the wet with your finger not dripping. Figure this is 40+ years old, time to get a new one. this time I bench bleed it before put in the car. For measure, I bleed the master cylinder again and go about other drum and disk as mentioned above. It is better but pressure not lock. and yes, even if I press the pedal all the way to the floor. Still not lock. 2 more info that I forgot. - I did rebuilt the front calipers and test the calipers before putting the pads in to make sure they work without leak. The rear ones are new. - if I pump the brake repeat couple of time fast, I notice the smaller reservoir toward the front of the engine shoot fluid up. It is not bubble but rather like you use your straw dip into water gently blow it. hope it help and hope you guys can help me
  11. Hello, I replaced the master cylinder because it leaked at where the booster strike the cylinder. What I have done: - bleed/flush the old fluid 3 times starting rear driver --> rear passenger --> front passenger --> front driver. Pressing on the brake pedal, I feel constant pressure from start to all the way depleted. I had my son press as hard as he can (10 years old). The brake seem to hold the tire, but if I try to turn the tires, I can still turn it. It is not supper hard to turn the tire. BTW, I'm 140lbs, average build and I don't think I'm that strong. what I notice is that if I block the brake check valve going to the manifold, then it is really hard to press the brake. I mean, you cannot press it at all. I searched online to check the booster functioning using my month to blow/suck and seem to be ok. I also check the brake check valve and seem to be ok too. What am I missing/doing wrong here. Please help. regards,
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.