jonbill

If you've got it that far stripped, I'd always clean it and put new bearings in, give it a hone and new rings. It's fun!

Yeah, I saw that. I mentioned carbs because they have their own local reservoirs and will continue to work until the reservoirs empty. EFI only has residual pressure in the fuel supply line which isn't going to give as much as carbs.

Pretty sure car with triple carbs won't run for 8-10 mins with the fuel pump off, and the carbs of course have quite big reservoirs. Any chance this car has got two fuel pumps?

They won't be too cold. So not that then!

What spark plugs are they? If they're too cold then they can foul at idle and cause misfire until they're back in the self cleaning temp range and clean again.

Could be running rich from too much fuel pressure. Idle going up to 1000 when you turn the pump off supports this and the dark exhaust could be fuel not oil. Is the fuel pump & fpr giving the right fuel pressure?

Early R200s are the same. There's a little roll pin that holds the pinion shaft in the diff case that shears and the pinion shaft moves around, beating its seat as you say. Makes a regular knocking sound as you drive especially round corners. . It's easy enough to fix by driving the broken pin out and sticking a new one in.

It shouldn't be silicone, the vent baffle originally has some hard light coloured material holding it, but it quite often breaks off so people might be tempted to replace it with silicone.

Does it fire when you're cranking the starter but stops firing when the key returns to on?

Maybe there's nothing wrong with the carbs and the new HG is leaking coolant into #6

I have these heat shields on my Dellortos. https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/dellorto-car-carburettors-parts/parts/dhla-parts/des12-dellorto-dhla-stainless-steel-heat-sheild/ They work fine. I previously had a large tray dividing exhaust from inlet which worked too, but made everything very inaccessible on that side.

Each carb has a return spring, I think it's under the cover on the manifold face of the carb. The linkage should also have a return spring. (the carb springs are strong enough to return the carbs not the linkage) I'd take each carb off and make sure they open and close properly on their own before investigating further. If the carbs open and close OK then your linkage is binding up somewhere. It may just need a return spring or it may need adjusting. Or both. The page linked above (or alt least the books referenced there) have guides for correctly setting the linkage.

Thanks, it's a late 74 car. Earlyish for UK, you might call it late [emoji849] TBH I think your door looks similar to mine - folded apart from that last inch or two. But maybe how it's attached is a red herring. Maybe it's just where twisting forces on the door show.

Check the end of the propshaft (OK, driveshaft!) flange nuts too.

Here's a slightly wider angle. It's a 260. It looks like its a weak spot because the door skin joins differently here - elsewhere it's a fold over seam, but here it's not folded over. Maybe it's a brazed joint? I thought mine cracked originally with a bit of corrosion and with the way the hinges were shimmed the door was hitting the seal on the rocker under this point and so shutting the door was stressing it. I hope I've sorted it now, the crack and having to slam the door really detracted from driving it.

Thanks for this thread. I just followed that advice and my door does now line up pretty well now. I also have a tear at the front top of the door to fix again which I thought I'd finished but it's worth it!

I expect everyone knows the bit about p90a being hydraulic tappets isn't universally true. And they didn't only come on turbos. But they definitely do produce good power.

I'm happy to bundle up posting to UK for the 3 of us if Jerry's happy for so many to come to the UK. Jerry - I tried sent you a PM from tapatalk, but it looks like I might have sent it to myself! did you get anything from me? @JLPurcell

Clearly the clutch isn't releasing. Did you refit exact same clutch kit? I guess the 4 speed is f4w71b, but Which 5 speed? 1/4" movement of the fork doesn't sound right, I'd guess it needs a taller release bearing collar. But I might not be picturing it right in my head :)

That's very kind. I'll PM for details and payment.

I'd love some if your willing to ship to the UK. Thanks

is it idling OK now? Going back to the beginning, it seems to me that this was the sequence, right: 1. car was all working fine, 2. you took carbs off to fit new exhaust 3. You fitted the exhaust and put the carbs back on 4. The car ran poorly 5. You fiddled with float levels, mixture screws and more 5. Eventually discovered that the carb linkage was not set right and front carb wasn't opening at all below 2k I personally think it's unlikely that you simultaneously developed problems with fuel supply or ignition. Fwiw that 2 psi fuel pressure is fine. I think all you've got to do is really balance the carbs properly (you don't need Ztherapy for this) and make sure those float levels and mixture settings are right. Colourtune is a great tool to help with the mixture. Eventually you will need a decent heat shield between that zstory manifold and the carbs. Without it the fuel in the float chambers will boil.

Could be the distributor drive spindle isn't timed properly.

They look a little like the seals from inside the master cylinder.

Annoying because it was misleading. Engines don't need pure high quality fuel. Lots of engines will run on impure low quality fuel.