jonbill

Well done. I think you've dodged a bullet.

https://www.eurodns.com/whois-search/deals-domain-name I put the domain name in there and it gives you some details of who registered it. There are other similar services around.

And forumtrike-talk.com and aussies-deals.net are both registered to the same person in Yuma AZ.

Eautosmart.com is registered to an individual (not a company) in Moscow, Russia.

I'd runaway. Look at this. Apparently a review of eautosmart on an Australian review site. http://www.aussie-deals.net/aussies-deals/motor-vehicle-america-review/eAutoSmart%20Traders-index-thread-FFgret555.html But theres nothing else on the site at all. The root redirects to the eautosmart review. If they're not scam outfit, they're not averse to dodgy marketing practices. Same here. https://forumtrike-talk.com/trike-talk/forum/threads/are-safe-to-use-eAutoSmart%20Traders-thread-VV5464WZZ.html Run.

If you get piston #1 at the top, and both cylinder 1 cam lobes are symmetrically up, then you're at tdc between compression and power strokes and you can time the distributor spindle.

The dizzy and the cam sprocket can never tell you where TDC is. You can buy or make a tool like this to find tdc, https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192244689624 then make a pointer to record it. You don't need to worry about cam position etc. Tdc is tdc, twice a cycle.

Looks spot-on to me.

I'm pretty sure that will depend on the ecu. I'm confident my Speeduino would be happy with a cam sensor signal at the same time as the crank sensor getting the missing tooth.

I have a Speeduino with a crank damper trigger wheel, wasted spark and GM 6 cylinder coil pack, but it could work with COP. Cheap and effective.

Just checking : you know cam timing is completely independent of ignition timing, right? It's just you mentioned adjusting cam timing after talking about ignition timing problems.

I used a zx distributor with my stock 74 tachometer. Lots and lots of people have zx distributor with stock tachometers and no problems I think. I'm inclined to suggest try a different stock tacho before a different distributor. Maybe there's a problem with your tacho.

Nice camera work! Some of the nicks look like casting flaws, some look like impact damage. Agree nothing to worry about.

Is the current problem that you're not getting oil at the top of the engine when you crank it? The distributor timing has no bearing on whether the oil pump is pumping. Its probably just taking a long time to get oil round the engine from sitting so long. If you take the spark plugs out it will crank over faster. Also the chain and valve timing is independent from the distributor timing. Your cam sprocket and chain have nothing to do with your ignition timing or lack of oil.

What's the mechanism of oil getting in the intake runners from inside the Chambers? Reversion?

I think top layer in tri metal is lead or a lead alloy, not aluminium.

Aftermarket, I forget which ones. Reasonably priced tri metal from rockauto. I looked them up; Sealed Power.

When I built mine it did have that lateral clearance. But I didn't have to do anything to the centre bearings to get it.

What is the ignition advance at 4500 when the idle advance is 15? Why not leave it at 15? 15 sounds more like a reasonable idle advance to be anyway.

That k11 pump I fitted to my engine in 2016 is still going strong!

Yes you could weld it or even tap it to the nearest thread size and put a short price of threaded rod in with rtv on the threads and then grind it flush.

Yes I'd go for that I think if that's the choices.

I'd take the idle jets down to 54.

I'd guess that'll still be too rich. The air corrector only leans it out at the top end. So if the stock advice is 145 main and you're mods are a mild cam and exhaust I'd be going 150 as the next step.

Mass of fuel required