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About NA&CH

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 28906

  • Title: Unconfirmed User

  • Content Count: 32

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  • Reputation: 5

  • Achievement Points: 193

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  • Joined: 02/17/2014

  • Been With Us For: 3022 Days

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  • Map Location
    Naples FL.
  • Occupation
    Cabinets and construction

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    72 230z, 03 Track, and 08 Nismo

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ExploZer (4/14)

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  1. CruiZer(currently not) & Racer... Chris
  2. I have the 5k from costco and love them. Used only on my nismo and worked great. I am getting ready to use on the 240 this weekend. Any pics of the ones who have used and where they lifted from? I assume pinch welds just never like to assume. Chris
  3. Sorry for the late reply. I am using Wedge seat brackets. Pretty good. Lined up nice. One slider is a little tough.(Drivers go figure). Height is good for me( 5'10") Chris
  4. Love my seats from them. Now I need the interior to match it ??
  5. David do you have a price for your old Z new owner? Chris
  6. I will. Thank you again. Watching between GoT episodes Haha. Already learned so much from first hour. I will be taking carbs off and cleaning again. Chris
  7. @7tooZ thank you so much for the DVD. I'll be watching it and I'll see where I went wrong. I am going to toy with this end of the engine then further investigate before tearing parts off. Love the Z community!!! Thank you, Chris
  8. Well I am back... busy with my business and figured I would tinker(bc looking at non running beauty kills me). It takes work to get a to start after it sits for a while. Once I did start it and adjust idle screw(still no ztherapy dvd) my fuel gauge would read 3-4 psi. Once warm and idling rough(I feel) and at 750-800 it was below 3psi. I have never dropped the tank nor changed the fuel pump. I have changed the filter from the tank pictured earlier. Would I gain or narrow anything by routing a line direct from the filter to the hard lines in the engine bay and the return direct to tank? Eliminate the hard lines under the car for a test? Change the fuel pump for a new one? Still searching for an answer for the ole girl. Chris
  9. I thought that as well. I will get one of those. I have a fuellab from my old 350z. It goes to a 100psi. Maybe a constant reading. With a better gauge is this something normal? Jumping? Or could this be a fuel pump issue? Thanks guys. Chris
  10. Video is the cad running and the gauge bouncing back and forth very rapid. Should the gauge be constant with the fuel psi? Chris
  11. It's been a minute. I have been busy with work and no time to play. I received the fuel gauge and t for testing. I took a video. I am starting to believe my issue is in the rear of the car. Thoughts on video? Chris 20180814_181736.mp4
  12. No I have not. I need to do that and read read read the several pages I have marked about the SU. I picked up tube but way to big. Need some smaller hose. I found the picture with the coat hanger and marking the bowl at 23mm from top of bowl. Boca not far from Marco hahaha. Does anyone have contact info for Ztherapy. I would like to see if they have the Just Su DVD hell I'll buy a VHS and tube tv... Chris
  13. Same here. I'll fly you in for a weekend. Hahaha Yes the adjustment screws on the bottom of the carbs. I was just tinkering with items and when I adjust the nozzle height nothing changes on the rear carb. I do notice the hose going to the float bowl is stuck. The one that is connected to the choke cable. And typing this probably means I have the choke cables connected while adjusting...The rear carb is cleaned. I set the needle height. The air coming from both carbs is set,(using this term lightly) to 5 on the syncroguage. Not using the unisyn. I am going through and reading the carb tuning adjustment threads. I need to watch some videos. On the rear carb no matter where the adjustment screw is the car stalls when I pick the the piston. The front carb ig elevates and settles out. The rear always wants to die. Chris
  14. Just played with the adjustment. Seams like the carbs are pulling the same. I will have to take the car out for a drive tomorrow. I have my mechanic friend coming to check out the battery issue. Car idles at 1k. Cant get that lower unless I am doing it wrong. Going by the dirty su adjustment. They both suck the same. The balance screw was down about 3/8" inch and when bliping the throttle the front car did nothing. I backed that out and now the balance screw / bar is sloppy but both make the sucking sound. I have yet to adjust the rich lean screws. Have not been able to drive. I am going to get new gas and put some in for the ride tomorrow. See what happens. Should the balance bar set screws be "sloppy loose" Thanks again everyone. Chris
  15. Car runs and idles. Driving was the issue. The car would sputter under throttle. The car has about an 1/8th of a tank of gas. Could that be my issue all along? Never had any issue with the car doing 45-1hr trips in Florida April may heat. I have been reading the dirty su carb tuning. I will try some and try to drive it tomorrow. The battery issue is prob from the push button ignition or cig lighter. The electronic distributor parts were brought up and I figured changing them out anyway. Thanks again, Chris
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