jonbill

Lots of the deaths attributed to covid-19 are of people who were going to die soon anyway. So although they died while infected, they didn't increase the number of people dying. So its the delta between daily death count this year vs any other year that is interesting (to me, at least)

I think the reports of numbers dying each day with the virus can be misleading. I understand about 7500 people die every day in the US in normal times. so isn't the more interesting question "how many people more than 7500 died each day?"?

The practical advice I'm sure is sound, but DNA is not a protein. And viruses contain RNA not DNA. and isn't it Johns Hopkins? you'd think the mum of someone that workd there would know.

shame he'll probably be asymptomatic.

i think its a 260/280 disc. part number cross references here: https://www.yoyopart.com/oem/13921449/internationalparts-service-88012.html

I think original Nissan stuff is all paper/fibre so you're right to only us it once. You can get Kameari stuff here: http://kameariengineworks.co.jp/ (there's an email address on there somewhere, and Mr Mori will reply to English) Or rhdjapan.com if you're less adventurous! But I don't think they do full engine sets, just head gaskets. Apart from the cam cover, I tend to use Elring Dirko for everything else.

My head gasket is on its 4th use. Its a Kameari MLS gasket and is meant to be reused. Has to be at that price!

Thanks, Trevor has ordered them for me. Very quick and helpful. :thumbs:

Thanks, I'll have another look. I did find a casting number on the hub, but didn't think that was it.

I've been to measure, and my strut tube really is about 380mm deep, no way can it accommodate a 394mm insert, even at 42mm diameter. I couldn't find a part number on the tube - the underseal is thick anyone know where on the tube the part number is? The 8641 1033 is about maybe 2mm taller than the KYB strut, see the pic. The KYB is a 361002 and is listed as for a 240z, maybe it has to have a spacer in a 240z. (I installed them, but it was a long time ago and can't remember!) Even when fully bottomed in the strut, the 1033 is going to be a couple of mm proud. I may be able to modify the KYB gland nut to fit with it, maybe not. @KONI Lee is there a Koni distributor in EU that I might be able to buy the 48mm gland nuts from? or can you see in your parts catalogue a 42mm insert that's a bit shorter than 384mm?

My strut insulators are the same front and back. So early car?

I'll see what I can find.@ak260 does dating service for the UK club and that was his assessment of my VIN.

Thanks Lee, I'll do some measuring tomorrow.

There's a guy in the UK club with a plastic oem valve cover. I can't remember which model he said it comes from.

Thanks Lee, that sounds conclusive. My old KYB struts are about 42mm OD. I have some other corroboration that my build date is earlier than I thought. It's interesting what you say about the insert lengths - the 1033 are the same length as my old KYBs, and actually the 1033's ended up sitting a coupe off mm higher than the KYBs. Maybe they're not bottomed out because they're tight. I'll have to check the length of my tube and check there's not a spacer at the bottom - as it stands, I don't think there's room for a 10mm longer insert!

I love their social contract work.

Kelvin.

It's a UK car. I did think that broadly the transitions for the 260 were the same in US and UK, but I could easily be wrong on that.

@Joseph@TheZStore @KONI Lee Guys I've just been attempting to install my new Konis, and the gland nut doesn't fit. Have I got the wrong ones? It's a late '74 260z (I've always understood it to be 11/74) and they are marked 8641 1033sport. They slide into the strut tube snugly but the gland nut is the same diameter as the tube at about 50mm. My old KYB gland nut is about 47mm. Help!

Yes, it was me. I think I did caveat it at the time. Back then it didn't seem important to get the detail right :)

It comes from Tuner Studio (I'm a tuner too, u get me bro?) It's the fuel table for my injection, so it's actually a pretty accurate reflection of the VE and includes all the bits and bobs from the airbox onward. Yes, it does correlate to where the power is well. In a stock engine I guess the action starts around 2500, so I think the rising VE and likelihood of knocking is probably why the ignition curve stays flat. Maybe in theory one could start adding more advance again after the the torque/VE peak is passed, but that's would be very hard with springs and weights!

I remember there was a thread about tools to remove the rear main cap and thrust bearing cap. Here's mine in use today.

Here's my VE table. At the front is closed throttle, the back is full throttle.

OK, I see your point now. If its OK to have first 0.5ms of combustion before TDC at 1000 rpm (where it is 15 degrees) , then why isn't it still OK at 6000 rpm.(where its 50 deg or whatever). I don't know. Something to think about!

34-38 ish is common to engines, not z specific. It was impirically determined back in 1429 by the Lindisfarne monks. The variations are through different chamber designs having minor differences in combustion speed.