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Everything posted by jonbill

  1. the fans being on shouldn't affect the engine getting up to temp too much. if the engine isn't up to the thermostat temp, it's shut and no hot water goes to the radiator to be cooled by the fans. having said that, when I had electric fans, I did fit a thermostatic switch in the thermostat housing. I couldn't find one that matched the thread of the spare hole, so I ended up with a Volvo 240 switch that is M14 and tapped the hole to match. like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FEBI-BILSTEIN-FE01102-Temperature-Switch-radiator-fan-OE-REPLACEM-XX3011-224836-/324422697346
  2. have you looked at the underside of the manifold?
  3. look for the air leak on the engine side of the balance tube. maybe....
  4. So... Front 3 cylinders run lean with two different carb setups. the lean condition is probably not down to the carbs. what else do all 3 front cylinders have in common? did both carb sets use the same manifold? look for hole in the manifold, or warped mounting face.
  5. no, like SteveJ says, mine also lifts on the body. I lift the Z with a cross beam on the compression rod pickups at the front and rubber blocks on the rear sill jacking point.
  6. I bought mine 2nd hand here in the UK, its branded Hofmann, but I don't think this model is made any more.
  7. There's a couple of kinds of scissor lifts - mine does give good access to everything.
  8. Can I ask how you checked it was TDC compression? did you check the position of #1 cam lobes etc? it might not be timing of course, but things keep pointing that way IMO.
  9. That also sounds like it might be ignition timing problem. when you set the distributor spindle timing, did you check the engine was at TDC #1 compression?
  10. a longer bolt will allow you to get the washer and nut on and compress the bushes down.
  11. your distributor spindle looks right now 👍🏻 the leftmost (or most anti clockwise) marker on the pulley will be 0 or TDC. the marks to its right are in 5 degree increments. the 0 marker should be aligned with the pointer on the timing cover at TDC. is it? depending how your timing gun works, 0 may be the correct marker to line it up with.
  12. I think its just evidence of poor maintenance. m6 bolts are allowed, and rusty short ones break as much as rusty long ones.
  13. I've worked on engines for 6 or 7 years and I've seen several worse designs. like the 1zz piston or the n47 timing chain.
  14. https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Aclassiczcars.com+distributor+spindle+timing
  15. this is the gear on the crank that that spindle engages with, as it goes diagonally across the top of it at about 10 o clock.
  16. their shared spindle which is driven by a gear on the crank shaft.
  17. That'll just dilute the engine oil with rustbuster, won't go anywhere near the oil pump!
  18. whats the width? only thing I can think of is that they could be bits of compression rings
  19. The distributor rotates pretty easy, no resistance there. so if you didn't hold the distributor rotor, I think there's every chance that its not at the same timing it was. I mean, all you did was take off and refit the oil pump and distributor timing shaft, and now it idles considerably higher. timing. and its easy to prove one way or another.
  20. the spindle that came out with the oil pump sets the timing on the distributor. I expect your ignition timing is advanced. there are many threads on here about timing the oil pump and distributor spindle.
  21. I've heard that carbs can get better atomisation than injection. certainly the airflow through the venturi isn't the same as on ITBs. perhaps helps to vapourise the fuel. anyway, ultimately if they both deliver the same amount of air and fuel as each other, then they will produce similar power, all other things being equal.
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