Diseazd Posted June 9, 2019 Share #1 Posted June 9, 2019 I’ve got 2 inches of play in my driver side rear wheel. Not sure where it’s coming from. Anyone help me out? Only on driver side. EC61E4DB-6BCC-4297-8320-D94B670CD63B.MOV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted June 9, 2019 Share #2 Posted June 9, 2019 (edited) Might just be me, but I get "Error: Unsupported video type or invalid file path." Edited June 9, 2019 by Captain Obvious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280 Posted June 9, 2019 Share #3 Posted June 9, 2019 Looks like the play is in the differential/drive train. Put it in 1st gear and secure the passenger side wheel then see how much play you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diseazd Posted June 9, 2019 Author Share #4 Posted June 9, 2019 (edited) I would assume it’s differential....but then again I’ve never had diff problems, so wouldn’t know exactly what to look for. Edited June 9, 2019 by Diseazd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280 Posted June 9, 2019 Share #5 Posted June 9, 2019 There usually is some play in the drive train when the rear is jacked up and turning one wheel. If you secure the other wheel and the the transmission it should reduce. Is it a stock transmission? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diseazd Posted June 9, 2019 Author Share #6 Posted June 9, 2019 (edited) All drive line is stock .....336 diff and stock 4 speed tranny. The reason I noticed it was I had a low speed rattle (like a tail gate rattle) that I traced to the driver side strut. When jacked up, the wheel has 1 to 1.5 inches of slop and makes a knocking noise. It’s not the half shafts. I don’t know squat about diff problems, but the excess play seems to be diff related. Edited June 9, 2019 by Diseazd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted June 9, 2019 Share #7 Posted June 9, 2019 All of the joints are visible for where you're twisting. See which parts move and which parts. Grab both sides with each hand and twist. The video sounds "grindy". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted June 9, 2019 Share #8 Posted June 9, 2019 John C and others have said that the old open R180's are susceptible to one wheel burnout failure. The seat for the pinion shafts gets wallowed out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonbill Posted June 9, 2019 Share #9 Posted June 9, 2019 John C and others have said that the old open R180's are susceptible to one wheel burnout failure. The seat for the pinion shafts gets wallowed out. Early R200s are the same. There's a little roll pin that holds the pinion shaft in the diff case that shears and the pinion shaft moves around, beating its seat as you say. Makes a regular knocking sound as you drive especially round corners. .It's easy enough to fix by driving the broken pin out and sticking a new one in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diseazd Posted June 9, 2019 Author Share #10 Posted June 9, 2019 (edited) Just finished putting another diff in......slop is gone. Edited June 9, 2019 by Diseazd 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted June 9, 2019 Share #11 Posted June 9, 2019 Can you pop the cover off of the old one and look for carnage? Magnet shavings, chipped gears, ovaled holes? That would finish the story. We need more destruction pictures for diff problems. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diseazd Posted June 9, 2019 Author Share #12 Posted June 9, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat
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