jonbill

I mean they cost a lot. They would be very nice.

Do you do the lottery? https://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-super-close-gear-set-71b-type-a-s30-s130-gc10-gc110-gc111-r30-c31.html

Are the rockers in? If not it really shouldn't need force or mallets to get the cam in the right position.

Or you can thread a couple of bolts into the other end of The crank and put a bar across them locked against the engine stand to stop the crank from turning.

I reckon there's leg pulling going on here. Or chain yanking or somesuch.

That's the sort of spring. But you don't have to use it like that. Here's how mine is setup with 2 of those springs. You can see them on the linkage by the filter on the cam cover.

Fs5c71a

I think they're fs5c71b boxes. I'll dig out a pic of a fs5c71a shift linkage. It's quite different but anyway, the huge giveaway is that the case is in 3 pieces and the B boxes are in 2 pieces like the C boxes. Edit: looked again and they've got brass synchros so they're fs5w71b

No one seems to think they're confused, yet everyone seems to say different things [emoji51] Do you think the cam timing/sprocket position number affects the tensioning of the chain? It absolutely does not.

Moving to hole 2 or 3 without moving the crank advances the cam and sprocket 4 or 8 degrees, in essence without moving the chain so that the cam becomes advanced relative to the cam. But since a chain link is not 4 degrees you'll nearly always end up moving a bit of slack chain to the tight side when you refit the sprocket (also making the Slack side a tad tighter) so then you turn the engine 720 degrees to tdc again to check the cam alignment marks line up as the should. The tight side will be as tight as it ever was. The Slack side will be as Slack.

I have a couple of these between my linkage and the valve cover to ensure it all closes. https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/weber-carburettors-parts/carburettor-parts-weber-carburettors-parts/dcoe-dcosp-parts/linkage-return-spring-lt5000/ I'm sure you'll be able to get something similar closer to home.

There's mixture screws per cylinder, throttle stops per carb, linkage per carb, possibly idle air bypass per cylinder and idle jets - all affect idle and off idle response. You Deffo need to get same air flow values for all cylinders at idle.

Turn the input shaft and if it feels notchy or gritty, it's definitely worn. If it doesn't it might be OK. Make sure you can select all gears. Not sure what else you can do.

€450 for a good one with a warranty is probably a decent deal all in all.

Yes, €56. It was about 3 years ago and had some worn bearings and synchros and is the less popular s13 variant. S14 is stronger.On ebay here they don't come up as much as they used to, but when they do "buy it now" is often £300 - £500 for "known good" but "unknown", or "worn" condition auctions still sell from £50 for s13 boxes. They are quite a faff to rebuild and are also upto 30 yrs old so strong money for those promised to be good but bargains can be had for those that have to be rebuilt.

I paid £50 for mine in the UK. And then $200 or so for a set of synchros and bearings to rebuild it. And then another £75 I think to get the Z bell housing, gearbox mount and propshaft modified.

Oh yes. I think I flew in to Turku and stayed in Naantali for an exciting 3gpp meeting. There was a nice lake I ran around.

I think I've been to Turku. Is it Turku where the moomins come from?

I believe you - certainly mine doesn't have synchro on reverse but I haven't found the gear selector strange at all, in fact that's one of its best bits in that it came with a nice quick shift kit. It's been plenty strong enough for me, but I'm not into turbos. I believe them to be good for circa 350-400bhp.

UK/European S13 and S14 200sx have Fs5w71c gearboxes too.

It's this kit I expect: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20j/23-4190 It's cheap and works. The stock compression rod setup isn't a great design.

It's always good to have your valve clearances correct, but I'd check the colour of your spark plugs. Also what did your old fuel filter look like? Any rust in it?

I don't know when they were introduced, but they were still there on my 81 280zx (engine).

Good to know, thanks.

I appreciate that, but why bother keeping the TBs cool? Surely they don't transfer a significant amount of heat to the air going in, and they're insulated from the injectors and anyway the injectors and the fuel rail hold very little fuel compared to carbs, so...? Maybe the answer is that its easy so why not. I'll be installing ITBs over the winter and it's a question I hadn't considered.