Mark Maras

Not me. I like the bottom in your pics and it will still look great in twenty or thirty years.

Not a chance. The gorgeous bottom in your pics will look the same in twenty or thirty years.

Bottom porn.

PM sent

I'd try to drill or ream the splines out of the insert and leave it in place.

Googled "throttleshafts,greencoating". The green coating appears to be Teflon. Here is one business that coat throttle shafts, Orion Industries, orioncoat.com. There are probably more.

When he grabbed the tire, I wondered if he was going to align the front end using his body alignment method.

If I had that sound for my morning alarm, I'd never hit snooze again.

There's still a question in my mind if the early 260 regulators were the same as the late 260. Does anyone know if the regulator change came with the forward relocation of the inside door lock?

@zbert1 I don't have the answer to your question but the V.I.N. may help narrow it down if someone does know of an "in-between" regulator. Just did a bit of research. Z Car Source has window regulators. They list a regulator for years 74-76 and a different one for 77-78.

I agree. Just wanted to rule out the obvious. Any other symptoms? When the problem started, one clutch ago, did it gradually go bad or fail with one push of the clutch?

How about a bad? flywheel bushing or bearing (can't remember which it is) causing the trans input shaft to spin even when the clutch pedal is depressed? How difficult was it to push the trans the last half inch when you installed it? Any other symptoms like noise, pedal feel, odors etc?

I once heard politics compared to a stock pot. When the scum rises to the top it's supposed to be removed.

I agree but what if the protective piece was attached to the tank so it would come out with the tank? I'm imaging, as I sit by the wood stove, a piece of 1/4" steel plate at the rear of the tank welded to a 1/4" flat bar frame that would surround the tank. The tank would mount to the fabricated frame and the flat bar frame would attach to the chassis.

But the snarky comments are what make it fun. Ala MST3000.

The problem is our systems that reward big egos.

Thanks, Cliff. That low fuel level made me wonder if it is float level related.

Post #64 he says he pulled the bowl covers after it "starved" and found the fuel levels "significantly lower."

I always use Greyhound Express.

Still looking for new parts?

When I changed my springs (Mulholland) and shocks (Bilstein) on my early 71, it dropped the car a bit as anticipated but one of the first things I noticed was the heavier steering at low-speed (parking lots). I did run a bit more negative camber than stock. I drove Jai's 76 at ZCON and it was definitely easier than my modified 71.

You didn't mention if it was for sale. More info is needed about the car. The condition of the engine, body (rust), running gear, electrical, maintenance records, the reason it hasn't been on the road, etc. Above all you want to leave them with the impression that it's going to a better home and will be loved and cared for. However, don't take it on if you can't afford to fix it and keep it running. Good luck and keep us posted.

It's not too late.

Many Z owners have found the pumps from the 1st gen. Mazda RX7s (1980ish) are nearly silent and put out the proper pressure for carbs. Less than $50.00 at RockAuto.

It might be time to pull a needle to identify them and cross them off the list of possibilities.