Mark Maras

Try adjusting the butt weld gaps to get full penetration. Almost no gap for thin sheet metal. I try to keep the gap on the narrow side and turn up the settings to get full penetration. One other tip, well two. An auto darkening hood will make your life easier if you don't have one and when setting up the welder the first thing I try to achieve is an instant arc. No wire pushing, no hesitation, just aim, pull the trigger and weld. This is usually a little hot but with narrow gaps, the welds penetrate and lay flat.

All this started with a pic of Bruce's auto-Darthening hood.

Arlo said the same thing when the song's fiftieth anniversary was coming up. He said he had to go back and relearn it.

Arlo said the same thing when the song's fiftieth anniversary was coming up. He had to go back and relearn it.

Litter'in (parts under the bed) and creat'in a public nuisance and they all moved back.

I call that, Sweet Dreamz.

Pics or it didn't happen. I think I heard that from someone before.

Said the Captain as everyone backed away and started whispering to each other while pointing to the anomaly.

Not me. I like the bottom in your pics and it will still look great in twenty or thirty years.

Not a chance. The gorgeous bottom in your pics will look the same in twenty or thirty years.

Bottom porn.

PM sent

I'd try to drill or ream the splines out of the insert and leave it in place.

Googled "throttleshafts,greencoating". The green coating appears to be Teflon. Here is one business that coat throttle shafts, Orion Industries, orioncoat.com. There are probably more.

When he grabbed the tire, I wondered if he was going to align the front end using his body alignment method.

If I had that sound for my morning alarm, I'd never hit snooze again.

There's still a question in my mind if the early 260 regulators were the same as the late 260. Does anyone know if the regulator change came with the forward relocation of the inside door lock?

@zbert1 I don't have the answer to your question but the V.I.N. may help narrow it down if someone does know of an "in-between" regulator. Just did a bit of research. Z Car Source has window regulators. They list a regulator for years 74-76 and a different one for 77-78.

I agree. Just wanted to rule out the obvious. Any other symptoms? When the problem started, one clutch ago, did it gradually go bad or fail with one push of the clutch?

How about a bad? flywheel bushing or bearing (can't remember which it is) causing the trans input shaft to spin even when the clutch pedal is depressed? How difficult was it to push the trans the last half inch when you installed it? Any other symptoms like noise, pedal feel, odors etc?

I once heard politics compared to a stock pot. When the scum rises to the top it's supposed to be removed.

I agree but what if the protective piece was attached to the tank so it would come out with the tank? I'm imaging, as I sit by the wood stove, a piece of 1/4" steel plate at the rear of the tank welded to a 1/4" flat bar frame that would surround the tank. The tank would mount to the fabricated frame and the flat bar frame would attach to the chassis.

But the snarky comments are what make it fun. Ala MST3000.

The problem is our systems that reward big egos.

Thanks, Cliff. That low fuel level made me wonder if it is float level related.