Patcon

I'm with Jonathon. I like the ARP studs but I have reused bolts in the past and have never broken one. I believe, possibly in error, that if they survive the torquing down then they should be good to go.

Is this a self learning system or do you need to program it? If it's not self learning then I wouldn't mess with the fuel pump unless I was sure it's starving for fuel

Where did the flange and down pipe material come from? I like your TIG welds too!

Courtesy Nissan shows out of stock, ships in 2-4 business days $44.43

If the one shock with the welded stud is inoperable. Grind the bracket off and grind the metal away until the only the stud is left.

That's quite the softball you're throwing for Cliff!

unless the filter was bypassing due to loss of filtration capacity. You might could build it back up but it would have to be hardened again and would be cost prohibitive.

I had seen that one. I just can think of anything usable on that chassis. Maybe something under the car but I doubt it Typically when they get this hot the sheet metal is badly oil canned from the cold water sprayed on it. There is also the effects of the heat itself which changes the characteristics of the steel in the door

What would concern me most is where did all the metal end up.

Not worth my time to try to reinvent that wheel... no insult intended

Is the RT mount not available? Is it overly expensive?

The later cars in the US have about 315hp and are very fast but they have problems with frame damage at that power level and thats not a 50 year old chassis designed for 140 hp or so

Ok

an 1/8th would be 0.125 if I am remembering correctly

I might, I would have to locate it

What year Z3M?

I woulg with s30's suggestion. Copper coated, no issue getting them off in the future

This is doable with a 3 liter motor but it takes about 12k to do it unless you are a very gifted engine builder. The head work alone is about 2-3k of that. Rebello or Datsun Spirit build them all the time but the real question is "How fast do you want to spend?" Very difficult for a DIY'er to hit those goals. These cars don't really need 300hp, an honest 200-225 makes them move really nicely without tearing the drivetrain and chassis up

A drive train, a way to cool it, wiring harness, battery and a fuel supply

L28et and tranny is cheap at $1000. You will have way more than that in it trying to go turbo on an L28. You also need the L28et harness and computer or a standalone efi system. Stand alone costs more. Its just easier to buy a rusted out or crashed 280zx turbo and go from there. Unless you want big power, but big power can cost BIG. Watch Copart for a donor...

For a Texan that's right next door!

The barn find dirt actually seems to help the value on BaT. Cleaning it might make it bring less money. Sort of like restoring antique furniture. No harm in making a call if you think you might sell it.

5 1/2 from here

YES!!!

Like I said, it's a unicorn. Possibly the only 350 mile 280z in existence...