Patcon

That will be another interesting one to watch. There is a nice clean 73 and a decent looking looking 76 survivor on there right now too

I have had a pertronix do exactly the same thing at a relatively young age on a 350 chevy. I have been told heat can kill them. Mine died around August. I wonder if heat played a part in your failure too.

Take the cable loop all the way loose from the lever, so the cable can slide into the jacket. That 4 or 5 inches of slack should help

Not if that one is closest to the pump and the line goes up somewhat from there. The jets are really just open holes on the end of the line. I would expect the pump to be what determines if fluid comes out or not. Admittedly I have touched one in a long time

Be sure and mount the hood before working on the buckets or fenders. Would hate to see you fix it and then have to redo it.

My wife does facebook, I do not, but she has posted a few things on market place and they sell very fast. I find the market place clumsy and hard to search...

I suspect it is the pump leaking not the jet

Yes, there are cups on boths sides. Four in all. I dont know the id on the bracket hole. I am sure its somewhat oversized

Link is broken or page removed...

Unfortunately I don't see a way to make it this year. Cody will be out of the country and I am getting pummeled with unexpected bills. Just don't have the money right now, even for a quick trip. Have fun and be safe!

Post a link

Yup, brighter is better!

I have one but everyone that I have quoted it to, has balked at the shipping. They are not cheap to package and ship because of the size

@nix240z

Of course you would do better than them! One of the really exceptional people at this has apparently retired several years ago. I know of only 2 companies still offering these services. Don't know on cost yet.

I am not sure that 12mm square is small enough to keep them out. If they can get they're head through then they can get in.

http://www.brakecylinder.com/ Some good links here FAQ's http://www.brakecylinder.com/BrakeFAQ.htm#whysleeve Calling the captain @Captain Obvious How about a side business in your spare time? ?

Don't know on cost http://www.karpspb.com/sleeving.htm

I know many older more rare cars have very limited availability for parts. When they have a bad master cylinder, caliper or wheel cylinder there is no replacement available. So there are specialty restorers who can sleeve these with SS sleeves. Then new rubber seals and you're good to good for a very long time. I have a number of master cylinders that could be refurb'ed. Does anyone know of a source for small diameter SS sleeves?

That starts to make restoring and sleeving the old units I have laying around make sense

These should be the same on all S30 chassis's A donor is the best bet

The knuckles have a milled area that fits up into the bottom of the strut They can be really difficult to separate. There is also a small O-ring that goes in there to keep water out of that joint. If you are just replacing the strut insert, it can be done without removing the strut from the car. If you really want to separate them, then it will have to be driven down with some force, which is going to stress the ball joints or you could try to drive a painters 5-way in between the parts.

Ouch!!!

You are missing some metal there. There are some metal cups that are welded to each side of that mount that the bushings fit into

Good you figured it out.