Patcon
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Everything posted by Patcon
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If I were going to replace the springs I would do it when I did the struts. Although the bounce in the rear probably has nothing to do with the springs. Struts should help that. Most people change springs fo a slightly lower stance. I would suggest Eibach progressive springs. Just be sure whatever fluids you try are safe for yellow metals! -
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Bless you on the shingles! I've had that, no fun at all! Getting the rails adjusted properly in the doors is a big part of the window regulators and not overly worn or broken parts. The car sounds good and I didn't hear any worrisome noises.
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@kats Don't you have room for just one more? ?
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Just remember Chas (Eurodat) is one of the few resident transmission experts...
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I wonder if the GM tranny fluid would help? It does sound like the 3rd synchro could be a problem. Nice looking car!
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He's a "sparkie"
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You aught to be able to turn the freeze plugs out and with the head off blow the majority of the block clean. I know Rossiz did something similar and said he was surprised at the amount of gunk that came out. The freeze plugs can be difficult to get out. I have struggled to get them turned sometimes but a fabricator at your level will grind out some interesting little widget to make it easy peasy!
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Also be sure they are in the correct locations
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There is either a problem with the lever that trips the switch or you need a switch with a longer plunger. Can you shine a flashlight into the transmission for a look?
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It would have to be slop in the ball joints, at the control arm bushings or the tie rod I believe. Those are the only places I can think of that would allow that type of movement. If you have spring compressors, you could jack it up, remove the wheels and take the spring tension off and see where the slack is. I would think it would be pretty obvious but maybe not.
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If there is slack in the output U-joints then the slack may be in the output shafts and not internal to the diff
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Do the output shafts move when you do that? If they don't move, that is inside the diff. It could be re-shimmed but might not last or it could whine once it's re-shimmed
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Cliff, If it were mine, I would only replace the places in the floor with patches that need it and replace the rusty frame rails. Now if you get it cleaned up and you find a lot more holes I might change my mind but on the car I am doing know that is what I did. I might have a partial floor pan from Charlie that would have the section you need. You would also need to get some frame rails. I'll be in "T-town" on Thurs evening until sometime late Friday Afternoon. If you wanted to try to meet up. I know you're pretty far North of I-20
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That was oddly coincidental! It wasn't me...
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Try to actuate the switch while it's not in th he tranny and see if the lights work
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If you're running carbs, I am not sure I would expect much of a change with the oil cap on or off. Maybe someone else will confirm this
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I believe it prevents oil that might leak out the rear seal from slinging around every where. That's my theory at least
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I suspect they were lacking the boat anchor original mount or they wanted to mount it in such a way as to not interfere with the fuel pump. Your current install is much better in a number of ways
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That doesn't do much for me but I bet it took a lot of work to get it that way.
