Patcon

I love this forum!!!!

I guess someone here nabbed it. It ended about the time you posted it. Did you buy it Phillip?

I am leaning towards this https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-323-KIT-Multimeter-Clamp/dp/B00DTSLWRA/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=fluke+117&qid=1575730850&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-5 One article spoke about "consistant spurious currents", in what conditions do these currents show up? Is this what I see when measuring a section of a 3 way light switch and there is some lower voltage being indicated even though that leg of the switch is off?

Color!

That kanga link that was posted recently has some good info. One video was balancing piston assemblies

Thanks for locating that. In the case of the shifter fork pictured, why can't the lost material be added back? Are they hardened? Some other reason? Just thinking out loud...

So you want to source an automatic 3 speed transmission? Where are you located?

Rich, Do you just clear coat the serial number pads?

How do the shofter forks go bad? There's not one in that Canadian parts hoard y'all got?

So you dealt with Amy. I wish I had. I did ok but there was some run around and the finish could be a little better. Its interesting they fabricate out of a little shop. Pretty cool!

Who was the exact vendor?

I would say that is one of the refrigerant lines to the AC compressor. Has Freon in it. Do not crack it open! Your best bet is to remove any clips if possible to make it looser and work around it. As for the engine bay line, I would say that is just grime of some sort. Wash away...

I would pick up any 5 speed for $75, but I am some what of a "collector"

I assumed voltage could play a role but couldn't think of a situation where voltage would be that low. Less than 8v's in a 12v system

Do you really want to know Volts? not amps? Is your car not running 12volts?

If you can get the timing set properly without turning the spindle it becomes arbitrary. What you run into sometimes is you run out of adjustment if the spindle isn't clocked properly to start with. Some people have even had to compensate by moving each spark lead one hole to be able to set the timing properly. It's better if the spindle is clocked properly but doesn't have to be if you can set the timing properly. Is there any reason oil shouldn't be flowing to the top? did you just replace the pump? Did you fill it with oil when you put it on? Sometimes they have a hard time priming themselves. Removing the plugs will help but don't over heat the starter!

Yes, for now 240,60,80 has things well in hand

You will have more success if you only start one thread...

I understand the patina to a certain degree but when it starts to be really obscured, I think it would drive me nuts. Now mind you, I am looking at this from a drivers perspective. If its a garage queen time capsule, that's different. For me, though, I don't want a car I dont plan on driving. No matter what I paid.

I was also wondering if internal 4 speeds parts will swap too. Like reverse gears or reverse idlers? Possibly synchros, if I were going to cheap out and steal synchros out of a 4 speed box for a 5 speed refurbish

So is it better to have the original spidering plexi glass then replacements? It would drive me nuts to have that crazing every where.

I was getting ready to ping you actually! I just thought I would make the discussion public for general benefit and noobs. These, I believe. It will be my truck meter so I will use it at work as well as in the shop. AC Voltage DC Voltage AC Current DC Current Resistance Capacitance (nice if you need to test the start capacitor on an AC unit for your house) Inductance (Are you curious about whether or not that coil is good?) I can use my timing gun for RPM What are the pros and cons of a 115 versus a 117?

So what are the white marks on the glass? It looks like frost or cracks but is sort of hard to tell what it really is

I had looked at one of the kits that includes the amperage loop and a couple of other things but there are options even there. I don't really understand what the differences are. The are 15dB's and 17dB's, etc ????

I am looking at getting a new Digital Multi Meter. Should I get a Fluke? Is it worth the extra money? I saw a Klein that was pretty cheap but didn't know if it was good. If I do a Fluke, which model?