Patcon
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Everything posted by Patcon
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Can you post up a couple of pictures of what you have and the bolts you have removed -
Bayarea Don't get the idea to weld the roof joint up solid. The car needs to flex some and the designers selected this area to flex. If you make it too ridgid you could crack the A pillars or some other area on the car!
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I suspect the perches need to be indexed too. Just because it's "Obvious"...
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Make sure the chassis ground above the tank is clean and protected
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You do have to be careful. I would bang or strike the glass. Firm even pressure and pull the cord. If you use too much pressure the cord can damage the seal. The dangerous areas are getting around the corners. Try to not stress or twist the windshield
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Wondering why you want to make certain changes? Fuel cell? Push rod rear suspension? Tubular front end?
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I'm glad you feel lighter now! I won't tell anybody
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Wow! That's strong
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That's too bad
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S30 EFI is not my forte. I know enough to be dangerous. I know resistance and corrosion seem to cause 60+% of the issues we see come across the forum. The other portion seems to be component failure and PO's "fixes"
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Ohh...It's good to have dreams
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I understand, but they won't stay good for long. Better to do it once and not have to remember to come back and redo it later.
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If you are use to riding bikes, then yes, your calibration is way off. If the car sat for any period of time, then 2 cylinders could have been left at the bottom of the stroke for an extended period of time with the valves open. Some slight bore rusting would make those 2 cylinders measure low. I am too lazy right now to try to figure out if the crankshaft strokes correspond to your actual cylinder numbers. I would run it for a while 6 months to a year and see if the numbers don't even out some. For me, they are only slightly out of range. Being I shoot for all the numbers being within about 15%. 10% being even better, unless the motor is fresh
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That was my suspicion on the mileage being low. That's what made it seem odd to me that it needed replacement. Had it been bottomed out at any time?
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The lower front end parts are different on a 280z but with an airdam they look like a 240z. The bumpers are different and the tail lights and front turn signals are different. The rear tail lights are the only real difference if you try to make a 280z look like a 240z. I agree with Av8ferg above! Since your in an apartment then I would try to get the best 280z you can that actually runs and drives. Don't buy a car that "runs & drive" but hasn't been driven regularly. Many times people get these cars running again to sell, but they can have lots of problems that can be frustrating to diagnose. The S30 market is very hot right now, even for the 280z. If you find the right car you need to be prepared to go look at it and buy it if it's the right one. If you can reach out to some members local to the car or local to you would be a good way to get educated and help you sort cars. You can also post up cars her for us to critique
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How old are they? Any idea of cause?
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Everything! If you already have a donor, then I would go with the 240z or the least rusted Z you can find. You are way ahead of most people as you have a selection of spare parts. Do you live in an apartment? You don't need a shop or garage to do most of this work. If you have a driveway and your local government will leave you alone much of this could be done there, provided it won't get stolen.
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The other piece of this, is you may need to learn to be your own mechanic. These cars are pretty simple. Most of us on this site are better classic Z car mechanics than most modern mechanics. Also these cars need attention and paying a professional for that gets expensive, and you are obviously on a budget.
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The automatic transmission is fairly easy to overcome.
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Would be much better to solder them and shrink wrap. Resistance is your enemy in these EFI systems
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@siteunseen GL with that!
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Start looking outside of Florida and the coastal states. You will have to go get it or ship it but much better to have a lot less rust!
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How did you connect the new CTS connector?
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A donor is the best bet
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I totally understand. That's a lot of money for a complete project!
