jfa.series1

It looks like the mystery of the pulleys is solved with Tom's additional pics and @w3wilkes pics of an similar compressor install. I think the theory of moving the compressor is pretty accurate as it allowed for future maintenance of the fuel pump. Tom - as to your question to me on the carbs damper fluid, I've previously used ATF but currently use 3-in-1 oil with carbs rebuilt by Z Therapy. It has a light viscosity and is easy to install with the small can and nozzle - so little is required that it didn't make sense to me to buy a typical quart container of something else.

Go back to @siteunseen pics. The top one shows the typical single idler pulley, the second shows the York compressor - its difficult to make out the bracket but its there. For reasons unknown, your car has a second idler pulley close to the fuel pump but the bracket and compressor are gone. Belt and suspenders??? As Cliff says, it makes no difference because the tin-can fuel pump would prohibit installation of the York mounting bracket. Recommendation: remove the two idler pulleys from your engine and start with a clean install of a late model A/C system - you really need it down in H-town. Just my $0.02 worth. PS - good looking engine compartment!

If the frame around the fuel pump is missing, it may be difficult to get back to the York compressor - a member on this site might have one. Honestly, they were really heavy and not that efficient. A better choice would be a more modern unit such as a Sanden or similar. These units install where the air pump is located - you would have to permanently remove the air pump. The compressor bracket from a 280Z or other models (fellow members can chip in here) will be used. If you are determined to remain totally stock and keep the air pump, then the York may be your only choice. Not sure if they are still available but a A/C shop or online search could likely tell you. A old York style might only use R12 refrigerant and not the later R134a, that needs to be a consideration.

The early A/C units typically had a York compressor attached to a frame that surrounded the fuel pump. There would have been an idler pulley installed at the top of the engine to adjust the belt tension. The canister you describe is probably the Freon tank. Your crankshaft pulley should have an additional (3rd) pulley attached to it for the A/C belt.

When the car was originally painted at the factory the hood was attached. Ergo... the hinges would have been painted at the same time.

Our fellow member @AZ 240 may have this repro item.

New rubber bushings for the steering rack and the rubber coupler for the steering shaft went into the hens teeth realm some time ago. Here's a list of suspension bushings I put together a couple of years ago for a buddy with Nissan P/N's available at that time thru Courtesy. The Beck Arnley items were available from Rockauto. BTW - I have a couple of sets of used rubber steering rack bushings in good condition for sale, PM me if you have an interest. Bushing List.pdf

Shocks are (should) not be designed to carry the weight of the car, that is the job of the springs. The OE shocks were hydraulic and therefore passive in the suspension, designed to dampen the up/down motion of the suspension. Today with many gas pressurized shocks, they have typically become active in the suspension, perhaps not by design but certainly by result. A spring maker should not be dependent on the shocks to carry the load and any statement to that effect is a cop-out. Afterthought: if you installed the new springs at all four corners, be sure you installed the front and rear units at the correct ends.

Been there, done that!

Welcome to the group. That is indeed a super sharp looking car - great find for you.

Easy peasy! Great find on a parts car - I'm seriously jealous.

PM sent.

First business: a sincere welcome to the group! You'll find us a helpful and appreciative bunch. Second business: what a stunning, original car - the white over red is amaZing! It looks like the original dealer worked very hard to load up the car, or perhaps the original buyer had a love affair with the parts department. Your third picture qualifies for entry in our ongoing discussion around the OE color of the steering wheel. Looking forward to seeing more posts from you.

Don't feel bad - it was an opportunity buy. Glad it will have a good home. As Cliff said, still in stock thru Courtesy.

PM sent.

Just in time for Mike's new Build topic in the forums! Looking forward to your progress pics.

Here's the early AM radio face with its backing plate, ...etc.

Retirement fund assets no doubt.

And... one has to love the originality of the bid amount!

Should you find some OE trim in decent shape, consider swapping the squeegees off the current ones to to the OE pieces. Its a pretty easy task - lose the staples and use pop rivets to attach the squeegees. Been there, done that! Sign me Just Another Jim.

I suspect you have the repro trim w/squeegee from Z Car Depot. They caution the lack of plastic plug for the ends in the product description. The OE stainless trim element was self-capped - that is, the metal was folded over to seal the end, never had plastic plugs to the best of my knowledge.

You'll find that most of us are compulsive in that way. The anal retentiveness has to come out.

And no finger guard on the radiator - no obvious sign of its removal.

The snorkel on the air filter has the butterfly / heat riser feature. Per a comment I received from Carl Beck a while back, the heat riser from the exhaust manifold was added somewhere about 6,000 units into production, not reflected in the parts catalog. The car can easily be a '70 production date. I see the coil has been replaced with some kind of electronic box.

Thread Hijack Alert! If we can agree that this is a "Almost-NOS" wheel having been well-stored and protected for many years, then can we also agree that the rim color accurately represents the wheels delivered in production cars? When we look at other recent threads showing lots of promotional photos with blond steering wheels, where do we find any production cars actually delivered with anything other than a red-toned wheel? While I cannot produce a photo of my car at time of delivery, I can state with confidence that this is how mine looked. I have several wheels I picked up for restoration and they are consistent in showing the red color where color remains intact.