jfa.series1

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I polished all the lenses on my car with a small buffing wheel on a drill motor and jeweler's rouge (Harbor Freight items). The small wheel tends to avoid the heat buildup created by a large wheel typically installed on a bench grinder, is easy to control, no damage to the raised lettering on the lens. The turn signal lenses had the greatest amount of roughness as might be expected after 92k miles, came out silky smooth and looking like new.

@Captain Obvious Did you see my PM?

You are correct in needing the motor grounded to the body. On early cars it is a narrow strap bolted to the bottom of the motor and then attached to the body with a wing nut down in the well. Look at Dan's photo and see the right angle bracket at the bottom? On later cars that bracket is bolted directly to the pinch weld at the top of the well. Hope this helps.

Hood latch receivers for LHD S30's. These have been stripped and professionally replated in yellow zinc. Each comes with the sriker plate and fasteners as shown. Each striker plate has some dings. $65 each - buyer's choice, including standard domestic shipping. Payment via PayPal. PM me if interested. Thanks.

Here's a pic of the bracket in my car. No throttle installed when I took delivery.

A complete hood latch set for any LHD S30 with all fasteners, including the small screw to attach the release cable to the firewall bracket. The set has been stripped and professionally replated in yellow zinc. This set is in excellent condition with a few small dings on the latch plate. $150, payment via PayPal, includes standard domestic shipping. PM if interested, be sure to mention the set #. Thanks.

A complete hood latch set for any LHD 30 with all fasteners, including the small screw to attach the release cable to the firewall bracket. The set has been stripped and professionally replated in yellow zinc. This set is in excellent condition with a few small dings on the latch plate. $150, payment via PayPal, includes standard domestic shipping. PM if interested, be sure to mention the set #. Thanks.

A complete hood latch set for any LHD S30 with all fasteners, including the small screw to attach the release cable to the firewall bracket. The set has been stripped and professionally replated in yellow zinc. This set is in excellent condition with a few small dings on the latch plate. $150, payment via PayPal, includes standard domestic shipping. PM if interested, be sure to mention the set #. Thanks.

A complete hood latch set for any LHD S30 with all fasteners, including the small screw to attach the release cable to the firewall bracket. The set has been stripped and professionally replated in yellow zinc. This set has some cosmetic issues: scratches on the safety catch and dings on the latch plate. $115, payment via PayPal, includes standard domestic shipping. PM if interested, be sure to mention the set #. Thanks.

Bruce, This is an example of a S30 set needing attention: one door lock and the hatch lock are "gritty" - they don't operate smoothly and often catch, possibly from wear but I'd like to open them up for inspection and see if something can be fixed. Any pics or tips would be appreciated. PM or email OK. Thanks, Jim

I have several locks that need attention and would really appreciate some guidance on how take them apart. Thanks.

Pretty awesome talent on display with that jig.

Since the product is no longer in the Koni catalog, these are probably NOS items and priced accordingly. When they're gone, there won't be any more! Not counting coilover's, the only current production shock inserts I can find available are KYB's. Gabriel has shocks listed, but only for the front.

These shocks are inserts designed to be installed into your existing stock struts.

You mention getting Koni Reds but when I go to the Koni NA site and do a model search, there are are no products for any S30. Do you have a secret source?

With lowering springs you definitely want to add bump stops to the shocks. I did poly bushings all around when I redid my car, quickly regretted that decision and switched out to OE rubber everywhere except the front control arms where I have eccentric bushings for a bit of camber adjustment. You'll probably not find rubber bushings for the steering rack so be prepared for a bit of snap in the steering with the available poly versions. For a street car there is little need for a sway bar upgrade since you are lowering the car. Front strut mount bearings can be replaced if yours are dry or damaged in any way.

Congrats on the new digs. My long-time dream is a 3-car garage with a small cottage attached. Then my wife slaps me awake and says "You're having that dream again. It ain't gonna happen, deal with it!"

Steve - thanks for the link. I didn't hear back if he located a car but I'll get this one to him. Much appreciated. Jim

I did exactly the same thing years ago when I needed some brush-on paint for the interior.

I sprayed the front wheel wells with truck bed liner, then followed up with a light dusting of color. No problems with paint adhesion. I avoided the spraying bed liner in the shock towers as I did not want to provide a place for dirt, moisture, ...etc. to begin a build-up. The towers were done with POR-15 topped by brush-on color. Jim

I'm just hoping to be able to stick around to celebrate my own 50 year anniversary in a couple of years.

Probably not the best kept secret but today I spotted a Facebook post on the Middle Tennessee Z Club page. A member was answering a question about Z ATTACK occurring in 2019, this was the answer: "Z ATTACKS were staged at Nissan HQ in Franklin in 2012, 2014 and 2017. We're skipping 2019 so we can help with ZCON in 2020, which will be the 50th anniversary of the Z and will be at Nissan." You heard it here first!

Other than primer of your choice, I use a process developed by one of our forum members: Duplicolor BFM0360 FORD DARK SHADOW GRAY, topped by Duplicolor HWP106 WHEEL MATTE CLEARCOAT. Here's a closeup pic of a grill I've done to show the color.

That rear valance is looking a bit like FrankenZ with all that stitching! I've always been too chicken to try and remove the stainless trim on the rear finisher. I choose to blue tape it for my refinish work. Two sets completed and on the shelf now.