jfa.series1

Shocks are (should) not be designed to carry the weight of the car, that is the job of the springs. The OE shocks were hydraulic and therefore passive in the suspension, designed to dampen the up/down motion of the suspension. Today with many gas pressurized shocks, they have typically become active in the suspension, perhaps not by design but certainly by result. A spring maker should not be dependent on the shocks to carry the load and any statement to that effect is a cop-out. Afterthought: if you installed the new springs at all four corners, be sure you installed the front and rear units at the correct ends.

Been there, done that!

Welcome to the group. That is indeed a super sharp looking car - great find for you.

Easy peasy! Great find on a parts car - I'm seriously jealous.

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First business: a sincere welcome to the group! You'll find us a helpful and appreciative bunch. Second business: what a stunning, original car - the white over red is amaZing! It looks like the original dealer worked very hard to load up the car, or perhaps the original buyer had a love affair with the parts department. Your third picture qualifies for entry in our ongoing discussion around the OE color of the steering wheel. Looking forward to seeing more posts from you.

Don't feel bad - it was an opportunity buy. Glad it will have a good home. As Cliff said, still in stock thru Courtesy.

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Just in time for Mike's new Build topic in the forums! Looking forward to your progress pics.

Here's the early AM radio face with its backing plate, ...etc.

Retirement fund assets no doubt.

And... one has to love the originality of the bid amount!

Should you find some OE trim in decent shape, consider swapping the squeegees off the current ones to to the OE pieces. Its a pretty easy task - lose the staples and use pop rivets to attach the squeegees. Been there, done that! Sign me Just Another Jim.

I suspect you have the repro trim w/squeegee from Z Car Depot. They caution the lack of plastic plug for the ends in the product description. The OE stainless trim element was self-capped - that is, the metal was folded over to seal the end, never had plastic plugs to the best of my knowledge.

You'll find that most of us are compulsive in that way. The anal retentiveness has to come out.

And no finger guard on the radiator - no obvious sign of its removal.

The snorkel on the air filter has the butterfly / heat riser feature. Per a comment I received from Carl Beck a while back, the heat riser from the exhaust manifold was added somewhere about 6,000 units into production, not reflected in the parts catalog. The car can easily be a '70 production date. I see the coil has been replaced with some kind of electronic box.

Thread Hijack Alert! If we can agree that this is a "Almost-NOS" wheel having been well-stored and protected for many years, then can we also agree that the rim color accurately represents the wheels delivered in production cars? When we look at other recent threads showing lots of promotional photos with blond steering wheels, where do we find any production cars actually delivered with anything other than a red-toned wheel? While I cannot produce a photo of my car at time of delivery, I can state with confidence that this is how mine looked. I have several wheels I picked up for restoration and they are consistent in showing the red color where color remains intact.

As the others said, its all about the build date when you are on the search for parts. Technically your car is a '70 model in that regard. When looking at the parts catalog, you'll find most (but not all) changes / supersedes occur beginning with month 07. With a late model year build like yours, the car probably arrived at the original selling dealer about month 08, possibly 09 in 1970 so it was likely sold and titled as a '71 model.

Note that your valve cover has a O-ring seated in it so you will want to use a cap that snugs up to that ring for a good seal (no seal on the cap). Later model valve covers did away with the O-ring in favor of a seal on the cap. My OE cap has the same shape (6 protrusions) as your second pic but no elephant, only the word OIL, my valve cover also has the O-ring seal.

Keep in mind that stains respond differently depending on the type of wood and type of stain. My stain was Behr, an oil-based stain. Your results may vary!

I applied multiple coats of lacquer that held up for about 5 years. Ultimately the oil from my hands caused a breakdown. Its time to redo it, will likely use poly.

Red mahogany.

The rim is wood impregnated resin - it readily accepts stain.

The unit I spotted at Rockauto for $35 has pics, it shows the correct T connector.