jfa.series1

I'm not a body guy but it might be that when you removed the rear panels it released some tension that resulted from the collision.

Pretty awesome work! Clearly time-consuming and often frustrating.

WOW - that's a pretty impressive group of friends you're hangin' with! Great pic, thanks for sharing.

Many thanks for the referral. I'll get it passed along to my buddy.

Still looking. @Hardway @Mike W Jeff or Mike - any possibilities in your area? Thanks, Jim

You really want the torsion bars in place to help you manage the hood weight. Getting the hood down is a process of adjusting the hood hinges. You might want to consider removing the grill for the process but its not absolutely required. Loosen the bolts holding the hinges to the body so the hinges can float a bit. Lower the hood fully but not latched, then push down on the hood front to get the hinges to settle into position, hold it there and tighten the bolts (that's why having the grill out helps). This is your up/down adjustment for the hood. The bolts that secure the hinges to the hood are your fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjustment to align it with the fenders. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the response. So as not to interrupt the holiday, I'll give you a call tomorrow if OK.

A friend is looking for a 240Z roller or shell (260Z/280Z need not apply) to convert to a track car. Drivetrain and interior not required but the body must be complete. Any leads in a roughly 300 mile radius of Dallas would be appreciated. You can PM me with details. Thanks, Jim

PM sent.

Great looking little car, can't wait to see more pics. Clearly your Datsun addiction is spreading.

Fixin' and y'all - two great words in our proud Texas vocabulary.

Mark, The catalog shows no changes to regulators, locks, or other parts during the switch from early to later 260Z: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Body-260Z-280Z/2-Seater/Door-Lock-Regulator-Handle

From the online parts catalog for 260Z/280Z: RH 80700-N3400 to 7607, superseded by 80700-N4400 eff. 7608 LH 80701-N3400 to 7607, superseded by 80700-N4400 eff. 7608 The comment by @Mark Maras is spot on regarding the part # change You are correct that the 240Z regulators are a different P/N. BTW - my limited experience with regulators shows the P/N is usually stamped on the part.

Nissan "generally" observed month 08 for the start of most model year changes, emphasis on "generally". Titleing cars is left to the states so we find some of the earliest 1969 production cars built in month 10 titled as 1969 models and others as 1970 models. Your 10/70 build was most likely titled as a '71, I would expect your search thru the papers will confirm the actual detail. That is a great car, congratulations.

Uncontrolled pop-ups are a big irritation with me. ABC is a big offender. They think every text story has to have a video ad and then video clip at the beginning. As soon as I scroll past it, a small pop-up video box appears at the lower right to continue the presentation. Then I have to kill that box to read the story without distraction.

Of course we are. Texas is a very big area, care to refine your location a bit more specific?

Everything in the first two pics will be yellow zinc - not cad. The second two pics will get clear zinc. What... you don't have enough bits already??? I'm experimenting with rebuilding the sidemarker electrical fittings so no final verdict yet. The nylon items sometimes come back with a white crust that can be scraped clean - there's really no option with parts that are mfg. this way.

Did I hear someone mention plating prep?

For the rear deck carpet, the clue is in the stitching. The soft/looped part of the Velcro is stitched to the underside of the carpet, thus the hard/hooks part of the Velcro is glued to the deck metal. To the best of my knowledge, this is the only Velcro application in the carpet set. Footwell carpets were secured with firewall snaps and hooks at the rear. Behind the seat carpet was unsecured.

That definitely sounds like a partially blocked fuel rail. I suggest removing it from the car and back flushing it with whatever pressure you can apply - perhaps an aerosol brake cleaner product. I'd start at the rear carb port, block the front carb port, and have a wire inserted in the supply port to break up any material that arrives. Then block the rear carb port, repeat the process for the front carb port. If the return line is open, you'll see some output during the process - that could also be a tiny wire insert to break up anything. Check your results by applying liquid under pressure at the supply port to see if both carb ports are open. The flow guide valve under the coil only handles vapors, not a likely culprit.

I'm no electrical maven but it would seem that if you follow the Nissan diagram, you'll be incorporating some of the serious design flaws such as running high amperage power for lights and turnsignals thru the fuse box and combo switches. Many of us have cured those particular evils with aftermarket relay kits but there are still more weaknesses in the OE layout. You're moving from a 10 fuse setup to 21, it seems to make more sense to follow the guide of your new kit. Good luck with the project.

Used hood release cable for a 280Z. All fittings in place including the small screw to connect the cable end to the firewall bracket. No kinks or breaks in the housing, no fraying at the cable end. Note the slick coating on the cable, not provided for the earlier cars - Arrrgghh! The grommet is serviceable. $60 includes standard domestic shipping. Payment via PayPal (Friends & Family please). PM if interested, thanks.

Used hood release cable for a 260Z. All fittings in place including the small screw to connect the cable end to the firewall bracket. The bracket could stand a repaint. No kinks or breaks in the housing, no fraying at the cable end. The grommet is serviceable. This cable will also fit a 240Z - will use only two mounting bolts on the bracket. $60 includes standard domestic shipping. Payment via PayPal (Friends & Family please). PM if interested, thanks.

I have two RIGHT side fresh air ducts for a 240Z or 260Z. They are in very good condition, no breaks or cracks - bellows good. There are some scuff marks on the elbows so I class these as excellent Daily Driver quality, not concours. $45 each includes standard domestic shipping. Payment via PayPal (Friends & Family please). PM if interested, thanks.

All gone!