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Dear all, My name is Chris Visscher and I am the owner of S30.world. For the past 10 years, I have focused a significant part of my life on increasing the appreciation of the Datsun 240Z/Nissan Fairlady Z, which we all cherish. With my partner Gustav combined we did about a total of 60 restorations to date. I would like to thank everyone here for their feedback. We are removing the white 240Z with VIN HLS30-15662 from the masterpiece program. You are right, the underside of the car has been completely repainted, and that should not be the case. The press release states that it is factory correct. You are right, it should say: as close as possible to when they left the factory. I am the last person to admit that a complete factory-correct restoration is impossible. All I can say is that we did our very best and made special rubber mats (for the 1969 cars), special air ducts(for the 1969 cars), a fuel tank for each of the different years, the insulation mats under the paint on the bottom, behind the dashboard , etc.etc etc I myself have dismantled many cars that were produced from October 1969 to the end of 1970 and compared all the parts with other project cars. So I have done everything to gain experience. In addition, we have different first paint cars starting with #2xxx and #19xxx that we have used as examples. We will certainly have made mistakes, but I can tell you that we have done everything we can to do it as well as possible. I am proud of the result and I hope you are too! I'm also very proud about the team we put together from all over the world. JAPAN, USA, UK, SWISS, GERMANY, AUSTRALIA, HUNGARY. They are all giving there free time to get appriciation for the S30 to another level. S30.world - The platform . Please read about it. If you want to help us and the community and have further feedback on the cars or the website, please email it to chris@s30.world, I appriciate it very much! Thank you in advance for your help.

Good morning and greetings from Germany/Europe. After reading along here for a long time, I am now introducing myself as the ‘marketing guy’ from S30.world. Even if this might be a mistake, because I'm speaking up as a "newbie" and will surely get 40 knives rammed into my back. But I'm willing to take that risk. So please forgive me if my language isn't perfect and I don't know most of the people here in the forum. I think the community here has been connected for a very long time and it's difficult to let someone outside the USA into the "inner circle". But let me at least try, and I hope that a certain amount of friendliness in all directions will certainly do everyone good. As Chris already wrote, we are busy every day doing our best and put a lot of effort into understanding and paying attention to every detail as best we can. Of course, the fact that our team is located all over the world also plays a major role in this. We are in the Netherlands, Hungary, Switzerland, Australia, England, Japan, the USA... This is very important because the S30 series was not developed solely for Japan, nor solely for the USA, nor solely for Europe. The entire S30 family is a globally designed car. And every export market is different (even though, as we know, the USA makes up a large proportion of exported cars). But not many people know that European cars are significantly different from those in the USA. The fact that cars in Portugal are also VERY different from cars in the rest of Europe is also an interesting story. But why is that? What impact do laws in Australia have on cars in the USA, for example? What do changes to cars in Japan have to do with cars in Europe? Why are there still 260Zs and no 280Zs in Europe and other export countries in the years 76-78, while in the USA it is the other way around? These are all questions whose answers are connected like a tight net. So you should never look at just one export market. That would not be the whole story. We, as a group of people spread across the globe, gather our knowledge and try to answer questions. (For example: who knew that between 1969 and 1978 there were 10 different factory hubcaps for the Zs?) We are simply passionate nerds who not only restore cars, run a museum and reproduce parts, but are also on the hunt for all these undiscovered mysteries. I think it matters less which words in our press release are "allowed" from this forum – because surely it is also our goal to appeal to people who haven't owned a Z for 50 years, but are new to the topic. Above all, it's about sharing all our experience (people are already laughing about the fact that I was born in a Datsun. My family has been driving Datsuns since the early 1970s, and the first car I ever sat in was a 1973 Cherry E10, a model that wasn't even available in the USA) and to create a place that inspires all Z fans worldwide. I therefore invite all sceptics to visit our museum in the Netherlands and take a look at the cars. It's certainly exciting to see how they are built. Incidentally, we are very grateful if anyone on location notices that, for example, a screw is the wrong colour or a hose does not have the correct number. But please don't judge something like that just because you see photos on a computer screen. Come and visit, you are invited, and I am sure that we are all nice people who share the same hobby.

Hello, everyone. I am also a member of S30 World. I’m very happy to be a member of the team. Thank you Carl. Carl recommended me to Chris’s big project. In addition, I definitely thank Alan for promising to join the team because I am a member. Chris visited my house in 2018. I was very impressed that he was very sincere about all the variations of our car. And his dream was to establish and enrich the museum with cars that have received great restoration work. It’s all because of the Classic Zcar Club. We have been learning a lot from the people here. I’m making a lot of friends here. We are all connected in a simple way. Z. We know that there are no cars that have been restored 100% correctly. The S30 World is trying to restore the car close to 100% correct. Chris’s great passion is outstanding. Many enthusiasts have been involved in his project. It’s like magnets on the fridge. I think all the posts here are worth reading to make our beloved cars more beautiful. I think people who post here are like magnets too. As Florian said, we are simple. We want to enjoy the S30 more and spread the joy of our cars to the world. If you see the car at the S30 World Museum, you will surely like it. We need to correct the “100% correct” word into the appropriate word. But all the black painted floors and other little things are repaired in good faith, so even if we don’t fix it, you’ll like it. Oh, stay tune, I will report an interesting things regarding S30 World soon. Kats

😔

So I'm home. The bottom line is that the car fared better than I did. Remember in the beginning, I was worried about two things... My radiator and my back? Well the radiator didn't get any worse, but my back did. By halfway through the day at the people's choice show, I was hurting. I'll survive, but it's unpleasant. The radiator... I had talked to a couple people about the troubles I was having and they put it out on the Z network that I was looking for a radiator to get me home. Well as a result of that networking, there was a guy coming to the people's choice show that was going to bring me a radiator. We found eachother at the show, and I snagged a rad. He wasn't sure of the condition, but was optimistic about it. Said it looked good, and as far as he knew, it was in good shape. That night, @madkaw and I swapped radiators after the banquet. Out in the parking lot, draining the fluid, pulling mine out and tossing in the replacement. Now remember that my back is pretty much shot at this point, so when I say "we changed the radiator", I really mean "he changed the radiator". So when he wasn't looking, I snapped a pic of madkaw working on my car: Bottom line? We had to do the job twice, cause the replacement rad I got from the guy at the show leaked horribly and wouldn't hold coolant. Sigh. So, we drained again and put my original back in. It holds coolant fine, but has a couple clogged tubes. I'll just have to watch the temps on the way home and adjust my speeds and load accordingly. My original radiator works fine until I'm going up a long hill on the interstate at 70 on a hot day. Thankfully as I drove north, the ambient temps dropped some and I was much better off. By the time I got to Maryland, the temps had dropped enough that I was able to maintain 70-75 on the interstates without worry. Thanks to everyone along the way that helped with the trip and glad for the chance to meet some of the forum guys!! @madkaw @Ninjaneer11 @zed2 @Parman @inline6

My Zed club had it's last group drive for the year, yesterday. My car gal girlfriend was my navigator, as we drove the twisty roads thru Glen Valley in North Langley. Great day.

Recently, I was able to obtain something rare, which I've been searching for five years, or so now. But let's start in the beginning. In 1937, Nissan registered a daughter-company called "Nissan Auto Sales Co. Ltd." as a sales division spin-off. In 1957, the same company registered the "NISSALCO" trademark, with the aim to develop and produce service tools for Nissan factories and workshops. They produced all kind of mechanical and electronic testers but also accessory parts for Nissan Car owners. Here is a picture from the Nissan Cherry assembly line, with a NISSALCO sign above every test bench: Today, the company is still existing, but under the "ALTIA" Name. In the early 70ies, they developed a Special service tool box for the Datsun 240Z sports. ST0929-0000. And yesterday, I finally got one, after many years of searching for it. The toolbox comes with a selection of Special tools for the 240Z. And this box came with a lot of extra tools inside. You can lift out the upper case, and then you have access to the lower level. Mine included also the Booklet that comes with it. So first, I had to get all the parts out and go through them. Luckily, i collected some of the Datsun / Nissan / Kent-Moore Special tools books over the years. And the box (even though without any part number or information) and some of the tools are also listed in the US-service manual: Sadly, I quickly realized that my purchase came with a lot of additional tools which do not exactly belong to the S30, but random Datsun's, and some original tools from the box are missing. It seems that the previous owner also recreated some missing tools. Overall, it's still a good starting point. After cleaning the box out, hammering the metal straight and fixing the locks. it started to look good. I wanted to keep the patina, but still clean up all the parts. so i gave them a quick wash in the parts cleaner: And then put the original parts back in: Assembled (some tools are not correct): And closed: The set also included this nice Nissan wooden tool box, with the lovely lock: I still have to figure out yet what this is used for, but i just love the looks of it: I'm also working on to restore the original manual that came with it: But it appears that the last few pages are missing and the back cover. But still better than nothing. It also has a very strange format, where each page is only printed on one side and then folded to have a print on both sides, which is a bit weird. That's it for now. I will try to keep finding the missing tools and pages. If you know something, I'm happy to hear from you. Expect some more tools related stuff in the coming days, but i also hope to work on the car itself again, in the next days. Stay tuned!

That's exactly what I did. Perfect!

That's too funny!

Wait... I'm supposed to have straps under the seat bottom? So THAT'S what those stiff crusty things hanging down were supposed to be!!

I present to you, road weary from about 2000 miles of adventure... The OG:

I just wanted to chime in, since I'm also a member of S30 World, a later edition, so not in the group photo with Takeo Miyazaki, which took place when the museum opened. However I am thrilled to have been asked to join in and represent the Australian part of the team, as mentioned Chris' goal is to ensure we have a global perspective on these cars and I've been the local train spotter in the Australian market for many years now, having got into my first S30Z back in the late 90s and joined this website in year 2000 I believe? I am also the owner of a couple of low vin # Australian delivered cars - which have their own unique differences. Even though I've been passionate about the S30Z for 25+ years, I still have things to learn, especially when it comes to cars delivered to markets outside Australia. I think we are all still learning, which is why the S30 world project and website is important, to help educate, discover and document. I'm also thrilled that through the restoration work Chris has spearheaded new parts have come to market to provide quality OEM-like reproduction bits and pieces (eg: fuel tanks and door seals just to name a couple). I was fortunate enough to see the quality of work first hand back in 2017, a local Australian had his car in display at the Nissan Datsun Nationals in Sydney. (attached photos). I've seen many 'restored' cars over the years and this was indeed top notch! Obviously not a 'factory style' restoration, but a superb finish none the less. The quality of finish achieved on cars completed since then has only improved! On a personal level, I feel the S30Z series have been greatly under appreciated for many years, however it would appear that more and more are starting to appreciate these cars these days and I'm very happy to see more cars getting quality restoration work performed at this level.

I don't see anything wrong with your marketing or terminology. 99.9% of people can see the detail and perfection of work that has gone into these cars. No-one expects God-like perfection. When you are king of the hill, you might have to kick a few people in the face as they try to knock you down.

I took the car to Caffeine and Octane on 9/7. While there, one of the attendees offered to take some pics of my recently restored 1971 Datsun 240Z. Looks to me like she used some kind of lens filter. Nice of her to send them along to me.

I really needed one more week to work on the OG before I left for Zcon. Just one more week would have made the whole drive so much less stressful. I would have known that I had a radiator problem and I would have mitigated it before I left. But I lost that week waiting for struts because Amazon screwed up. So here's where I am today. I took the leaky radiator I got at the show to a local radiator shop. They sealed up the leaks and pressure tested it. I swapped it into the car, and.... Driving around with no thermostat, it wouldn't even reach proper temperature!! Way better than what was in there! So just to see where the gauge would land, I put a 160 degree thermostat and went for a drive. It stabilized about here: So next chance I get, I will swap out the 160 for a 180 thermostat and check again to see where the gauge lands. But the bottom line is I'm a whole lot better off than I was with the previous radiator! I blame Amazon. And photobucket.

Fortunately the frame rails -front and back- and inner and outer rockers are completely solid . When I built the rotisserie I added extra support up front by attaching to the sway bar points . Cutting the roof has advantages as far as storage . Makes for a thin profile on its side . It was hard to find a roof that someone was willing to part with or wasn’t already rusted . Being in the Midwest didn’t help . Finally made a connection with a guy in CA and his 70 had gotten totaled in a front end wreck . It was a PITA but we managed the logistics and he was willing to help ship it out . And it was the right color - lol .

Finally figured out what was up with my log ins . Anywho- went to ZCON . Me and a buddy drove down the 4.5 hours from Indiana . The Z drove great with the freshly tuned ITBS. Had most fun in the parking lots talking nuts and bolts . Finally got to meet Captain Obvious . Wish I knew he was there earlier and could have spent more time hanging out .

VR1 10W30 $26.97 5 qt. jug, new filter $8 at Walmart. Cleaned and gapped ngk plugs $0. Adjusted valve lash $0. Idles smooth as glass. Took maybe 2 hours. Satisfaction for myself, PRICELESS! Beer:30 now.

Im in good company!!

My all-time favourite Bondo Queen was a Ferrari 275 GTB that appeared on the FerrariChat website several years ago. It looked so-o-o-o pretty (and cost the new owner about $1.5 Million at the time to make the pivot from 'just shopping' to 'proud new owner'). Nevertheless, he decided to commission a shop to make it 'even better' (including new paint, of course). Unfortunately, when the shop started to prep the body panels for said new paint job, they discovered evidence of filler in places where it shouldn't have been. Digging deeper (literally), they found that the entire nose was nothing more than Bondo. Up to 1" deep in many places. More exploration (excavation?) found deep pockets of damage that made one think that the car had fallen off the top level of an auto hauler and landed on its roof. The shop was stunned by quality of the bondo slinger's work, calling him an artist. When we made the transition from horses to autos a century or so ago, the method of transportation may have changed but the same shysters stayed loyal to the cause and moved from 'horse traders' to car retailers without losing a step.

I don't really want to chime in here into this discussion, but I have seen the S30.world cars in real life, and talked a lot to the people behind it and all I can say is: - Those are the best restored Z's I have aver seen. And I have seen plenty of them over the years. - They make their own parts, where new ones are not available anymore, and those parts are the best reproduction parts I have seen, with real attention to details. - The team behind it is OBSESSED with small details and correctness. Down to things like the correct color and position of the bolt-marking dots. Everybody is free to have your own opinion, but I really recommend to check out the cars in real life and talk to the people behind it, and then only you can understand how many extra-miles these guys went to build some of the best restored 240Z's out there.

I see Hagerty Insurance is featuring the 240z - along with another old Japanese sports car we won't mention - on its latest on-line ad. Also, it only ran for a couple of days (mind you I don't watch that much TV so I might have missed some) but Nissan had an ad featuring a full fleet of Z cars on a car-carrier semi, driving through the mountains. Front and centre, high above the tractor unit, was a yellow 240. At the back, the loading ramps were lowered while the rig was still in motion, just to let the latest model join the ride. Neat. I don't remember any car maker featuring a 50+ year old model in their ads. Cheers All Richard McDonel

Yesterday, I made a 4-hour "tour de Suisse" to collect various parts which I've purchased and visit some friends. My first stop was at my good friend Stefan from Cagedude. Aside from always finding crazy builds in his workshop, I'm always full of joy to see his collection of C10 and C110 Skylines in various states of Restauration. The red one in front is a genuine Swiss-Market 2000GT Shortly after I got my tool-wall, another original Datsun workshop tool wall popped up for sale. Since I already had one, I told hem he should get it, which he did. The wall stayed in his possession for a while, but then he called me and told me he has no time to complete it, so I should get it instead. So I picked it up yesterday. So it means the hunt for all the missing tools starts again. Luckily, I already was able to complete an empty wall once, so I hope I'll manage that again. Oh, and I also picked up this 280ZX T-top Nissan Press poster for another friend of mine. The second stop was at my mate Heiko, who has a nice collection of Z's and roadsters, among some other cars. The reason was to pick up a complete euro-spec rear bumper center section, which is increasingly hard to find. The EU-version has additional holes for the lower number plate lighting. I have several, but all have messed up mounting brackets. This one needs some love too, but at least the brackets are good, so I can use it for test-fitment of everything. And then i got another "Mystery package" from a long-standing parts dealer partner, which included various interior and battery parts. Plus a rear bumper side section, ashtray, etc. And some random NOS parts, plus a lot of replated parts. It's always a bit of a mixed bag from this vendor. Some parts are really useful, NOS or good quality, Some appear to be from different generation Z's or even other cars, or are not in the best condition. Usually, the good parts make up for the bad ones. This-time the J-bolts for the tank straps came in very handy, and it's always good to have a variety of parts on site. Even the "bad" ones usually get used for trial-fitments, etc. I hope with all this new parts and information from yesterday, i will be able to spend another few hours in the workshop with hopefully some progress on the car. Stay tuned.

Looks like I forgot the pic of the turnbuckles . Once i tried a door and hatch to match sure my gaps were decent I finished welding things up . Getting the roof on was the big hurdle . It killed me to just walk past this car all these years and not do anything to it , but without a roof it would have been a waste of time . Now I could finally take to ordering panels . In case anyone cares this car is being built for me . I know there will be skeptics of someone welding a roof on but I feel confident enough to drive this until I can’t drive anymore :) Some videos I watched of chopped roofs made my install look better - ha .

Whether it was the best approach or not , I decided to slug/sleeve the A pillars . I felt a sizable sleeve -3” would give plenty of weld points and help keep things aligned . I had kept lots of A pillars material from where I cut these roofs up . The complex part is that the pillars taper ever so slightly . Also tough is making square cuts to match one roof to the other roof pillars . Another obstacle was I realized the drivers A pillar on my replacement roof was bent back -likely from the accident the car was in . It was a hard hit- shoving the LS2 back into the firewall . Windshield was still in the car he said . Getting the height right on the A pillars was going to be the big challenge . In the first pic of this thread you’ll see I built a support out of angle iron for the roof to sit on . I used my Z to measure from the seat bolt hole to roof line . This support also helped to have something to set the roof on while I made adjustments. Thank god these roofs are light.

Haha!! No, but I learned a new trick... I can hot spot my phone. So I bought a tablet thing device* that can do navigation so now I can GPS on the tablet THROUGH the flip phone. That's also how I was able to take a pic of me drinking beer on the patio at the hotel at Zcon. Hot spot the phone, tablet to the web, and show off my favorite shirt while guzzling beer: *It's a phased out Lenovo thing. Cost $40 closeout. Best forty bucks I've spent in a long time.

@Captain Obvious You have a GPS on your flip phone?!!

@Yarb Made a little progress today. I got the reverse lights fixed with the help of Yarb and my little helper was in town too. Yarb sent me a new switch he had. It's longer than the one I ordered Yarb, do you know the part number for that switch?

Well I wanted to get back to posting here so this will keep me busy posting . Years ago I had a friend that had this car sitting at an apartment and it was about ready to get towed off . I offered him all my money in my PayPal account ( 800$) even though I didn’t have a place for it . It was sell it or lose it and he was just glad it didn’t get hauled off . My garage(workshop) wasn’t even done yet but there was a z waiting . This was 2017 . A year later I had surgery on my back so it sat around for a while . It was a complete car with a blown engine . It sat outside for years To be continued

RNM at $25,000. Reserve too high or market too tight with their money? Scary times ahead here in the States.

Won’t find this info on FB- lol. I worked on a 72 thru Covid . The guy texts me yesterday that he has no rear brakes . I put all new SS lines in his car and had to clean/ rebuild his brake switch valve . I’ve had the weirdest stuff with his brakes . The O rings failed on the brake switch and fluid was forced from one side to the other back up into the MC . Now his rear brakes don’t work - so after reading this I assume it’s that proportioning valve . I haven’t laid hands on it yet . Looks like I have good reference material here . Wish me luck

The ad was produced for Nissan Canada to celebrate the 60th anniversary of their entry into the Canadian automotive market. Stunt driving was performed by Kiwi rallycross driver Rhys Millen (son of Rod, nephew of Steve), using the airport at Lillooet, British Columbia for an action shot that was then blended into the primary road footage (shot on a nearby highway). There's a short feature on the video shoot available on Facebook... https://www.facebook.com/nissancanada/videos/781763657583093/ The actual video can be found on the landing page of Nissan Canada's consumer website... www.nissan.ca (scroll down on the landing page to find the video). I don't think it's available on YouTube yet. Nissan Canada's corporate media website has some nice feature articles and photos built around the 60th anniversary celebration... Official Canada NewsroomNissan Celebrates 60 Years of Innovation and Excellence i...Nissan Canada Inc. is proud to celebrate its 60th anniversary, marking six decades of innovation, growth, and commitment to the Canadian market.

While I do have the special tool to open the booster, I also used Powerbrakeexchange. I live in WA and just dropped it off there. Traded in some of my cores for a discount as well. Call and ask then if he still has my cores, he can rebuild that and would likely just charge more for you not sending in a core. If that works for you.

Might help to identify where it is on the body. Probably recognizable to the guys that have torn their cars down but most have only seen carpet and interior fabrics.

@Mike

Well here is a look of the innards of a A pillar on a Z. The way it was designed made plugging it a challenge to say the least . I had plenty of A pillar material laying around so I made some plugs to slide down inside the A pillar . I think they were less than 3” . I wanted to be able to plug weld and butt weld from all sides . I peeled back the skin on the inside of the pillar . That allowed access to weld all the way around the plug . On the back side of the roof I made a plate to help join/bridge the new roof to the rear quarter . Of course the ideal scenario was to have as small of a gap as possible . I thought I nailed it the first time - but I made the error of relying on measurements . I welded it partially and got the fit too tight and couldn’t fit a windshield . I had to undo welds and clean things up . I should have attempted to install the windshield and then welded . In the end I ended with a .250” gap which was acceptable to me . It sucked having to grind out mistakes - but I was determined . At the rear I had the quarter windows to help me line things up . Since they have 4 screws and they share with the roof and quarter - I just had to make them line up . The problem was the roof was a bit sprung and I couldn’t pull it in place without some heavy equipment. My friend of the bodyshop told me he had these big turnbuckles I could try . They were the ticket .

SteveE: Thanks for your reply and I look forward to seeing your pix. As it turns out, I have been collaborating with Dave Irwin (Zs-ondabrain) to update the thread to which you've referred so that it can be a permanent tech article with lots of pix for the S30 community. With luck I'll get that done later this fall.

As long as we’ve brought up our daily drivers, every time I go to the Toyota dealership they were telling how much mine was worth and how I should trade it! I double crossed them and sold it to a private party for $36K and bought this! Holy Schmidt it’s fast for an SUV. Porsche Macan GTS. That’s one of the other three Porsches sticking its tail out of the garage behind it…

The fuel stabilizer will probably be good enough for now. I'd suggest taking it out on the road for at least an hour to work out all the issues that gasahol creates. Maybe even pump in a few gallons of fresh fuel into the tank, depending on how much fuel is still in there. FYI, when any car or internal combustion engine sits for 4 weeks the fuel and alcohol separate and the alcohol attracts moisture (water) which goes to the bottom and sits. This happens in the fuel tank, in the pump, in the fuel lines, in the carbs or injectors and so on. I don't think that I have to explain what happens with the water in the fuel system. For a fuel stabilizer in the future, there is only one product to use and it's not Sta-bil. That's an ok product and it keeps the fuel stabilized for up to 1 year but there is a product that is waaaaay better and most of you have probably heard of it. It's called Seafoam and they guarantee it to keep fuel stabilized up to 2 years. I'll take that a step further by letting everyone know that I"ve got first hand experience with the product and I've seen it keep fuel stabilized for over 4 years without any problems. I haven't checked my 79 620 fuel for over 2 years now but it was ok 2 years ago and I parked the truck in 2018 after I seafoamed the gas. My 75 z sat for 4.5 years and I put Seafoam in the gas the day I bought it in April 2018 and didn't start the engine until August 2022. I checked the fuel first and it smelled fine. Two days after I got it started I took off for the Olympic peninsula with it and drove it all over the place without a problem. Still driving the car today. By the way, Z Specialties is alive and well, I never have closed for good, only the past locations were closed for good. I work out of my home now part time and I don't have any employees. Z man of Washington

If you would have asked me that question before I drove to Nashville and back, my answer would have been more definitive. Now, I'm cautious about how my back reacted to the journey. The rest of the car, however, worked great! Other than the radiator needing to be cleaned out, everything was rock solid! He drives like a dream. Starts almost instantly*, handles well, electricals were perfect day and night. Really a pleasure to drive, even at speed. But my back has me a little spooked. My 280 has different seats, and I didn't realize how much I appreciated them until I spent extended time in the OG. And putting different seats in the 240 flies in the face of the originality aspect. Haha!! Maybe I'm still stung from the road... Ask me again in a week or so. ☺️ *During the banquet, I made a comment to Madkaw about how easily the OG started, and he said he might challenge me to a "start-off" with his car. Well after seeing just how quickly and easily my car started, he withdrew the challenge. LOL!

Great meeting in person too. And agreed.. Wish we had figured it out sooner and spent more time together. See what happens when you stop hanging out here? ☺️ I've got a pic of you working on my car. I'll put it in my adventure thread. Haha!!

@madkaw That’s pretty damned fancy madkaw……good to see you’re still alive! 🥳

Here is the SU tuning kit mentioned in post above. I just checked on eBay and they are available for $40. The small aluminum fitting laying on top of the gray package is the one I was referring to.

This is for you, not your car.🙂 Something I figured out after getting older and working on these cars. You can help your back when doing all that tedious engine bay stuff by simply running it up on a set of ramps or raising it up and using jack-stands to get the motor up so you're not bending over all day. Another thing I had learn the hard way was resting my elbows on the fenders would cause dents I ended popping out with a suction cup from HarborFreight. Cover the fenders with anything like towels or paint drop cloths using magnetic bowls that hold all the fasteners. I'm about to adjust the valves on mine. I use a set of Rhino ramps to get my lowered 240 up to, looks like about 38". Just a courtesy bit of advice you probably figured out way before I did and it really helps. Have fun!

Not racing related, but Newman and Redford, back together again… RIP Bob.

Maybe this is the point where you decide which you want most - working tach or good running engine... Back when I learned to drive - and for years thereafter - cars didn't come with tachometers. They ran and we drove them all over the place anyway. (but, from the factory that car ran VERY WELL with a stock coil, a stock ballast resistor, a stock distributor, AND a stock tachometer. Just sayin')

Hi Site Been a while….not sure, but whatever adds .080 inches….if they are .040 inches, 2 would do. Don’t hesitate to call Eiji….tell him you’re my cousin and if wants to keep eating steak at our house, he needs to be nice! 🤪 He’ll sell you the right stuff.

First thing - the AFM does indeed have a wiring connector, it's of Bosch design (as is the entire EFI system in your Z) and it's, like most Bosch connectors of that era, a PITA to remove. If your AFM is in place it will be difficult to see as it's underneath all that. Second thing - you really need to make sure the injectors are opening. It's sort of easy if you have the right stuff, and can be done in place IF you know how to release and remove the BOSCH injector connectors... If for instance you HAD a spare Bosch injector connector with a pigtail, you could put it on each injector in sequence and use a 9-volt battery to quickly apply and remove voltage to the pigtail wires. Yes, a 9-volt battery will open an injector. If you hear the distinct CLICK of the injector opening you can immediately rule out the "crapolla, the injector is stuck closed". (here I have to say: one side of the battery needs to be permanently connected, the other (doesn't actually matter which) needs to be loose so you can just tap the exposed wire end to the bare pole quickly. You DO NOT want to hold voltage to the injector except for a very brief period of time - that's how they work, milliseconds... IF STUCK they in truth need to be pulled and cleaned (and flow balanced) by a professional shop OR replaced - BUT most of the time I can get a stuck injector opening again by rapidly tapping the wire for awhile (several seconds or more) until I hear it clicking. That may help you in your effort to get it running even if things are not all perfect. The injector is a coil (an electromagnet) so both of those spade connectors are actually tied together by the coil. You should see that when testing with an Ohm Meter - leads placed on the two should show a steady Ohm value. If that circuit is OPEN, the injector is bad and you can't fix it. Now, you can also test that the injectors are getting voltage - they should ALWAYS show battery voltage if the Ignition switch is in the ON (or Start) position. And, because it's a coil, you WILL see voltage on BOTH sides IF the harness wiring is connected to the injector. If the injector connector has been removed you will see battery voltage ON ONE SIDE of the connector an not the other. The ECU asserts a ground to the other side of the connector to open the injector and, like I said, this happens FAST. You will never see this activity with a meter (oscilloscope yes). Because they are basically a coil IT DOES NOT MATTER which side gets power and which gets a ground signal. Most people wire the "hot" side consistently to one side of the connectors, BUT they don't have to! There is NO "+" side or "-" side. If there was, the injector would tell you.