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Put on your party hats and toot your horns. Join me in celebrating the 54th Anniversary of the day I bought my 1971 240Z. Today, it sits in my driveway proudly showing its age. Unfortunately, I'm also showing my age and have a little more trouble getting in and out of it and working the pedals than I did in 1971. Great car, great fun, 54 years of great road adventures!

Last weekend we worked in the shop some Here is a seam in the leather fender covers. I made this with contact adhesive and clamps. I picked the padding out in the seam area so it was just leather to leather. We took Lily down off the cubes. A lot less sketchy than the way I put her up there. Still had to have a 6x6 on the jack saddle at this point Rolled her outside and it promptly rained... My windshield leaks and I will add some sealant under the weatherstripping soon. I also ordered tool covers for behind the seats from Zcardepot. They don't have the hinges. So they may not work for me... Since I don't have the old covers

A work colleague of mine and I spent about an hour yesterday getting some video of the 240z I restored (got it on the road on Dec 31 last year). Unlike me, he has skills and talent for editing and creating videos. Have a look! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQ3ieeuqjwI

But the price of obesity drugs are much cheaper.

Well done! Congratulations from another OO.🎉

I offer two different versions of my conversion bell housings to do the reverse tilt. One for the CD009 and one for the TL70. Most of the people that buy my head end up tilting them so I offer the bell housings to assist in that.

Well, I gave up trying to find it and just yanked it off with a puller lol

The next thing to attack is the firewalls . I can’t finish the passenger upper frame because I need access to spot weld the firewall panel . The firewall is sandwiched between the inner fender wall and outer . I also have an issue with the passenger side firewall panel from KF . The drivers side worked out pretty sweet and I should be able to do a decent job welding it in . The biggest obstacle is that I wanted to preserve the vin# that’s stamped on the wall so I had to cut around it . The passenger side doesn’t line up right as you can see but the pics . They said they will send me a new one . I think the panel wasn’t square on their stamping machine . KF has been really good supporting their products . I’ll also add that their drivers firewall panel does not include the doubler for the inside

It's been a whole year since the surgery! Can hardly believe it, time flies when you're on the better end of healing. Thanks for all the prayers and well wishes, they worked. Next is a mid-foot fusion that I'm dreading but the docs said after a year with the knee replacement they could do it. I had planned a day of relaxing in the driver's seat of the 240 but it has rained like a cow pissing on a flat rock. Maybe tomorrow?

There was a post around that had someone replacing the guts of the old module with the new HEI but I cant find it. I might do that, but mount the box on the firewall or something. I like that it would appear more period correct. @EuroDat did that to his '77

As I've been saying for some time now; the upper middle class collector car market has been depressed for at least the past 10 months. Yes, should have taken the 90K.

Too many projects are IMG_2691.movIMG_2691.movdelaying this RHD hs30… Heading to the wetblasting area to determine if anything is left to work with……

I had her up on jack stands and stood about a 12" piece of 6x6 up on the jack and lifted her up. But the block and jack wanted to slide out once she was up high enough. I had to hold the jack in place while someone put the cubes under the tires

I stole this cassette from my step-a s s hole when I was a kid. When cassettes where still off white colored, before the clear ones. I listened to it so much I still know every word to all the songs but this was my favorite.

@siteunseen The infamous Librarian. Please do your due diligence and bail Charles out of the issue at hand. You Da Best!!

Oh, that was no accident. That was desperation and frustration right there!! Cutting wheel on a 4 1/2 angle grinder, and then a BFH to crack through the center portion that I only cut through partway (so I didn't cut into the axle flanges).

Had to resort to the old drum puller once. Came off with a very loud bang. Putting on a couple of lug nuts loosely prevents it from exploding into your lap

I didn’t make the larger pieces of upper frame rail. Same car I bought my roof from I also bought all his straight scrap pieces . It was enough of a challenge to make that 1” filler strip between the pieces he sent me - ha . I don’t have the tools to do that complex of bends and curves. The tool is just a right angle air grinder with a Roloc sanding discs . I use that tool more than most . I have cut- off wheel mandrel and scotch bright disc options . I actually have 3 of them with different mandrels on each .

Actually...

We’d need the @Yarb inator to help us with the electrons.

Winner winner chicken dinner, we have spark Now im gonna look into some heat sink and stew on where i want to mount it. Time to move on to the fuel system. I know the fuel is toast and the tank will need to be cleaned. I’ll probably start on removing that and see what condition the lines are in. I’m excited!

Yeah, hopefully it should be easy to tell. In any event, it's got to be better than this!!! Hahaha!

When I spoke with Sean @ ZStory, he recommended the Street-sport or Race-sport for my build. I'm leaning towards the street-sport, but as my build increases in cost, I may just re-use the MSA header I have for now and get the ZStory later, especially with the tariffs and all...

I'm installing new KYB's I like the idea of a light coating of lube on the inner walls.

Sold for $101K on BAT in 2019... Adjusted for inflation, to break even it needed to sell for $129K in todays money. Nonetheless in todays market - $90K was a pretty strong offer.

To get my plug out I used a small pipe wrench and a bottle jack to loosen mine. Situated the wrench so I could get the jack under the handle then pumped the jack a few times and it loosened up.

Yes you're correct. However, will a customer accept an exhaust manifold that will start to show corrosion almost the minute he leaves my shop after spending X amount of $ for a Y operation? Asking rhetorically as the answer is obvious. Everyone and I mean EVERYONE was very happy with the Jet-Hot cast look including, but not limited to, the Franklin Mint car.

Yes, nice shade of yellow. Looks a lot like mine. This is a Chevrolet color...'Rally Yellow'

Cody continues to make progress on his car. Thanks to SteveJ for helping us sort the engine bay harness @SteveJ He has the harness in and has started sorting out the electrical issues. There are quite a few We think we have a solution for the throttle control. It's loosely based on Ken Firch's cable system. His bracket won't work but we are working on making a heat shiel that will also hold a throttle cable and hooks for the throttle return screws. It will mount to the two lower studs on the SU's. The smaller SU's only have two studs and they are set diagonally. We are planning on using the the mounts at the balance tube to add a different 10mm OD tube with a donor part from a 240z. Which will supply a ball end for the cable to connect to I worked on a template for the heat shield today. I don't have a good way to brake the sheet metal so we will need to sort that out. We are leaning towards using 1mm stainless sheet...

This one’s got four wheels!

I had their greatest hits album when I was a kid. In retro my parents were probably concerned.

This was solved today by retarding time! Thanks

Was that an accident or wanting them off? BFH love!

Lol!! The Yarbinator. Love it! ☺️

If the light is right you can probably see the notches through the hole. In practice you just jam a small screwdriver in the hole until you feel it grabbing the notches of the adjusting wheel, Keep jabbing to get the wheel to move. It's kind of tedious, you don't get much movement per unit of effort.

There's a hole in the brake drum. Had a rubber plug in it. Might still be there.

So. I have been honored to help many of you here with your projects by shipping parts to you that I’ve accumulated over the years. I’m not a business, I don’t do it to feed my family, I do it help friends with their projects and to maintain my social circles. Recently, and I know I’m not alone, I and my customers have been faced with a massive increase in costs and effort shipping items to the US. I’m about to consider abandoning this service as it appears to no longer be practical. I can’t imagine what devastation is happening to Canadian small businesses who’s customer base is US based. I’ve heard rumbling on FB forums from others about crazy costs shipping both into and out of the US. I’d like to use this venue as a place to share our shipping stories and perhaps what worked better for you, or what services or techniques to avoid. So, to begin, I’ll share two stories that I’ve recently had, to help to both illustrate the difficulties and demonstrate solutions.

Story One. Shipping a personal gift to family friends in the US. I almost ALWAYS ship postal. Always cheapest, minimal or zero duty or brokerage charges (especially US to Canada shipping) Well, effective sometime in September I believe, there is a duty and taxes pre-shipping cost calculator application that has now inserted itself into the Canada Post shipping process. In a nut shell, shipping anything to the US requires you sign up with a company called ZONOS. This app sits between my Canada post shipping app where I make labels and pay for them, and my printer. I’ll explain. As I make the label, I (as always) I have to describe each items that I’m shipping. Now ZONOS gets in there and determines what specific trade type item each thing is and assigns a duty / tariff / tax amount to charge you. After you clear this hurdle it lets you pay for the shipping and lets you print the label. Now the fun part. First let me say, for Canada Post at least, THE SHIPPER (ME) MUST PAY THE DUTY/TARIFF/TAX, not the receiver in the US. So fine, I need to pass that cost on to the receiver by raising my shipping price. So I have to know what that cost is, right? Well I will know it, but not until I receive my monthly invoice from Zonos. NOT AT THE TIME OF SHIPPING!!! So, am I supposed to say “look, shipping is X$X today, but at the end of the month, I will ask for YY$$ more when I see your duty/tariff costs blah blah blah”. Oh I can’t ship that precious part you need for your restoration for 3 weeks while I wait to see how much that YY$ is and you send that $$. Oh and BTW, that YY$$ is going to be 500 times more than the 2$ part I’m shipping you. Are you a happy customer yet? What’s that, you don’t want that part anymore? Surprise!!!!: So back to specifics. We shipping a couple of hand made baby blankets and a bag of chips (don’t ask) to a family friend in US. Described it as a gift. Shipping costs were $25 bucks I think, but at the end of the month the Zonos invoices added $34 to MY visa. Sorry no more postal shipping to the USA

The passenger side was exceptionally bad in this car relative to other sections . The car sat outside on a rotisserie for years on its side with the passenger side down . Probably gathered water from rain . When I finally dug into this I was grateful I had scrap pieces to do some of these repairs . Somehow I was missing a hunk that I had to make - but it’s was a small hunk . Removing the firewall and all its spot welds really tears up the kick panel . That and rust required some patching work to make the kick panel strong again . I probably will end up ordering the panel for under the battery tray from KF Vintage . I don’t think my skills are up to fabbing that panel .

Seat cover fit might suffer. In essence, you'll be increasing the height of the side bolsters by 1 inch. The centre panel of the seat cover would end hanging in space above the carved-out foam. Occupant weight will force the cover down onto the foam, but the look (baggy) when the seat is unoccupied might make you wish you'd never tried it. I suggest that you run the idea by an experienced auto upholstery pro before you break out the carving knife

Just leave the condenser disconnected. You don't need it for now. You can also just connect both of the wires from the ballast resistor (the block) to the coil positive. You don't need it when you use the HEI module.

I would add some details of how, exactly, you are evaluating "spark". With a spark plug at the end of a plug wire, through the coil center terminal, with a spark tester...? Are you cranking the engine when you do this? Have you disconnected the original module by the fuse box or did you resintall it? And, or, but, I have noticed that you do not have any battery power going to the coil in your picture. You only have the coil connected to the module and no pwer to the module either. You need power to the coil positive terminal. Also, use your meter and make sure that the mounting screw of the module has a good ground. And make sure that it's the correct screw. Only one of the screws completes the ground through the module, it has a thicker ferrule. Looks like you have the correct screw but you might not have good contact through that screw head or where it seats on the TB. The TB is not the best place to mount it. That's where all of the coil current flows when the module is doing its thing. And, it you plan to run it for long you need a proper heat sink under the flat part of the module. It gets hot and heat will cause them to fail.

Here's a good read on what you're doing. You might read something helpful.

Look between 1st and 2nd spark plugs to see what head you have. Should be an E88 or N42, maybe N47? That will tell us what exhaust port shape you have and whether or not you have the injector notches. If it's an E88 you can use the 240 gasket. Fel-Pro has a universal diamond shape exhaust manifold gasket but it has the injector notches too. From what I remember it will work with carbs but I've never used one so maybe someone can tell us? If it's the OE E88 I would use the right gasket with round intake holes and square exhaust ports. I bought mine through Nissan dealership but zcardepot.com has them too.

It will be interesting to see how the BaT S30.world/Garage 44 auction goes when it is (eventually) listed. Im guessing the 240-Z has been shipped to the USA to sell rather than be passed in.

Not a "snark" - just a sigh from a bona fide Turbo Swap and EFI Enthusiast... Always have been and never apologetic. And although I sigh, I never fault anyone else's decisions concerning their own vehicles. A comment is just a comment, everyone has their own opinion, and some have greater experience in a certain sphere than others.

I used this on my front air damage prior to paint. Can't remember who recommended it, but seems to work.

Yes, the plan is to paint the airdam too. Hopefully it will stick...