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Operation Degrease complete: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would go to a local automotive paint supply and see if you can get a 2k zinc rich primer in a spray can. Shake, activate, shake and spray. No gun to clean up...

Not yet, I might later. So, decided to cut the front coils today, 1/2 coil at a time. Did the right side first until I kinda got it where I wanted it, then the left. Cutting 1/2 coil off the top (soft end) dropped it 1/16", a full coil 3/16", 1 1/2 coils for 1/4" drop. Not much impact for amount of material removed. So then I figured I cut on the bottom firm end, and took 3/8 coil off there, which resulted in a total 7/16" drop. Decided to leave it there and not get crazy, and repeated for the left side. Here's what was removed (your results may vary🙂): After a quick spin took this pic: I think I'll leave it as is for awhile, maybe more settling will happen. Ride smoothness doesn't seem to have changed, and no camber change. Final measurements from ground to outside top wheel well: RF: 25 5/8" RR: 24 7/8" LF: 25 9/16" LR: 25 3/16" I guess when MSA says these Eibachs "Will lower most Z's approximately 1 - 11/2" from stock ride height, depending on other factors, such as choice of struts & shocks," I guess my Z isn't in the "most" category. I should probably figure out what springs it had before, maybe they were non OEM. Oh well, good enough for now, until I get the itch to cut more....

That settles it. We'll establish the CZC base camp at Cliff's place. 😉

Snapped two quick pics @ the host hotel. @Zup & @S30Driver cars in first pic. (Congrats on both your trophy's) 2nd pic - the Safari tribute was nicely presented, as in, IF Nissan manufactured the S30 body today, that's as close to what it would look like, IMHO.

It's just around the corner...😉

I will have no excuse not to attend next year, since that's spittin distance from me.

Yes sirreee! That’s about the long and short of it! And yes it was the delta variant. However, a week on and I feel a lot better, if only a little weak at times and need to take it easy. Being desperate to be in the fresh air, I did an oil change on the Q5 to force myself out - which was fine at the time but I paid for it within an hour as I had drained all the energy! Very weird for me as I normally exhaust people with my energy and pack way too much into any day. I am told it would have been a lot worse without the vax[emoji382]especially as I get asthma whenever I have flu. So far, it’s just been an intermittent cough without a tight chest. Something to be grateful for!

Well fellas (and ladies), it’s been a rough week! Auntie ‘rona took a delta flight, came to visit and has not made it a pleasant stay! Our eldest came home from a summer camp at the local school and a few days later we had a text to say one of the kids in his bubble had tested positive. We tested negative, so we went off onto our long weekend away. A few days later he wasn’t feeling great. We all had PCR tests and except for the eldest they all came back negative. Soon our youngest had a temp too. We had PCR tests again and all of us were positive! Thankfully none of the friends we were away with are affected. We suspect the close proximity of sitting in a car for 4 hours each way would have done the trick! I’ve been the hardest hit as I am a man and clearly “man flu” is way worse than anything women experience in life - with the possible exception of childbirth! So my body has been feeling like It’s been tramped on all over by a herd of cows, big headaches, eyes and ears feeling like they’re being pinned / pulled out, big cough, no energy and having the shivers / sweats with 40°c / 104°F temps (a lower temp thermostat didn’t help). Other than that I’ve been tip top! Feeling better yesterday and hungry again, with a rare occasion of seeing the sun in the sky, we had an isolation bar-b-q for supper ... I could not smell a THING !!! Nothing! Not even standing in the thick smoke could I smell any charcoal!!! The taste has gone too! The burgers tasted like chicken, salmon or frankly anything salty. Mustard, which I can’t normally handle, no trouble at all, lashed it on!!! I can happily chew into an onion and pretend it’s an apple! My youngest told me that the benefit of having no smell is that I won’t get as cross when I go to brush my teeth and find he hasn’t flushed the loo! Silver linings!! Anyway gang, the moral of the story is, if someone as fit, healthy and strong as I am, with double vax can crash so hard, I hate to imagine what it must be like for those who’ve refused to vax. Astra and Zenica have been looking after me. I suspect my wife’s Pfizer is more effective hence her having a better time of it. Another theory is that (so my doctorfriend tells me) I had a mild version of covid when we got back from Skiing in northern Italy in Feb 2020 (European epicentre of C19 at the time). Apparently if you have had it already you get a stronger immune response to the vaccine and a re-infection - in my case I had a terrible response to the vax. So long story short, just wanted to say, take care of yourselves, this is nasty stuff and it ain’t gone away just because our politicians say it has or reduce public precautions to suit the narrative of the day. It’s also something we have to learn to live with, so we must keep sensible caution in place.

September or even better October are really good down here. No humidity no hot temps. The time falls back at the end of October so let's hope it's before then. I wear shorts until Halloween and maybe even closer to Thanksgiving. Southern hospitality is gonna be great! I know the hotels that rent by the hour. Great food just like Memphis and Atlanta. Wayne you know you can stay at the liquidanb.

Dang it. I posted this first in the 510 Open Discussions. The rumor mill was right. ZCON 2022 will be in September in Birmingham, AL. I hope I'll be paying more attention when I'm prepping my Z than I did in selecting the forum...

Thanks for sharing that. I was looking for problems on 4 but you compressions are very consistent across the cyls. What I find intriguing though is that they all seem rather low. I was expecting over 150, below 200! It could just be the gauge that is at fault but what is important is that your cyl 4 isn’t low compared with the rest. So, are you still having issues or has it improved since you did the seals?

I don't mind driving places that I can reach in one day, but I don't like taking multiple days each direction. My back isn't what it used to be, so 800 miles is about my comfortable daily limit. This spring when I moved across the country, I did 1000 miles the third day pulling a trailer. That was a bit too much.

When I saw it last night it was listed as $1 (trying to entertain all offers, I suppose). I didn't notice the change. I think I'd consider something around $5k depending on the issues in person... probably less considering the tens of thousands it would need.

Garden of the Gods

Compression test results

Nice, hopefully early October, September can still be hotter than two cats f…… in a wool sock

My April 1971 240Z had only the 2 non folding wheel chocks, jack, jack handle pieces, lug wrench, and stow bag when I bought it as a new car. It also came with a small Nissan labeled can of matching paint in the storage bins. It did not include open end wrenches or spare lug nuts. Does the parts book list wheel change kit contents and spares that were included on delivery?

Like Patcon said, a good metal conversion primer with zinc in it.

Love this shot of it while in the garage..

I'm still a little ways off on the bumper, car still on rotisserie with metal work. I started a build thread for it, but I'm not that diligent on keeping up with pics. I find myself working on it then realize I didnt take any pictures. I still welcome the visit, at least for moral support. I'll send a PM.

Out of hibernation! Needs a wash, some interior work, tires, etc. The list goes on...

Yes, a little weird. Still it is a 5spd installed in a 70/71 240Z. So the shift lever has most likely been modified so as not to hit the front of the center console. Cut and re-welded perhaps to lay back that way.

So glad to hear you're okay and though really bad, it wasn't as bad as it could've been, I guess. A good friend of mine is 4 weeks into his delta gift. He's a farmer and still can't be on his feet for longer than 30 minutes. Can't operate any machinery, feed the cows, fix anything. Interestingly, he told me he had the J&J vax. His wife told mine he hasn't been vaxed. I'm staying out of that one. So here's to a quick complete recovery for you 🍻

NO.. you didn't.. The missing data here is: we (europe) had the 260z till the new 280zx came in 1979, we had the 260z overhere.. (So buildyears are from 1974 till 1978 !!!) never seen the 280z! (That had injection, thus no shoke knob needed) All 280z's in europe are gray imports they were never imported official in those years.

And since we are drifting interestingly to reproduction footrests for the S30, here is an aftermarket one that came from a S30 in Japan (according to the Yahoo auction). No idea who made it, but it's nice. A slight chance its the OEM option footrest for the SP/SR311....?

And the Colin project is available here too; https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/interior-trim-nissan-datsun-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/original-style-foot-rest-for-jdm-fairlady-z-and-roadster-sp-sr?variant=2606391364 I am not a fan, the feet and fixing rivets are wrong. I know its to swap feet around to help sort which way the feet maybe orientated to suit your car (but for me its lazy). And considering the cost of an OEM restored one (which I sometimes restore and sell), at least it is original and looks correct.

So, you have been vaccinated, and you still caught it and got ill from it?

I haven't been neglecting the 240Z for the past week. I have just been waiting on finishing things before posting about them. Early in the week I purchased a premium $20 Dual brand receiver from Walmart to install in the car. No CD, no tape deck, but it has USB, Aux, and Bluetooth. I wrestled out the old Audiovox tape deck and shook my head on how I wired it 28 years ago. The only good thing was that it was an excellent benchmark to show how far I have progressed over that timeframe with regard to my wiring skills. One of the challenges was finding a source for the constant 12VDC source. A long time ago, I jury-rigged getting the power from the map light. Yeah, that wasn't happening twice. Using the FSM wiring diagram and my multimeter I figured out my solution. The 12VDC switched source would be coming from the 3 wire connector for the radio. The ground would come from the 3 wire connector for the rear defrost switch. The 12VDC constant would come from the rear defrost relay. I made jumper harnesses for the ground and 12VDC constant. I connected everything and tested the stereo. It worked...except for the right front speaker. I tested the wiring, and found the positive wire was broken somewhere. I decided to start looking at how to install the speaker enclosures. Early on I discovered the old speakers were too deep. Fortunately I had to source speakers for the 260Z to fit the enclosures, so all I had to do was order another set of Pyle speakers from Amazon. Again, nothing but top shelf stereo equipment for me. After the speakers arrived, I put the stereo end of the speaker wires into a connector. I also started fitting the enclosures. I had to trim the driver's side to clear the dead pedal. I also had to get some longer M6 bolts for the hood release bracket, but I plugged the wires into the speaker and got the enclosure mounted. Then I went to work on the passenger side. I decided to remove the fuel pump relays since they are not being used any more, and I removed the relay bracket. I did dry fit of the enclosure and trimmed it to go in more easily. After plugging in the speaker I went to install the relay bracket...Well, that took a lot longer than I hoped. It doesn't line up that great, especially with regard to the top bolt when you have the lower bolts cinched down. It doesn't help that you can't see how misaligned thing are unless you can miniaturize yourself and contort your body just right. Anyway, after an hour or so, I finally got the bracket mounted. I plugged in the stereo and tested. Yes, I have tunes for my next road trip. After I was happy with the stereo install, I pivoted to the hazard switch. I got the retaining ring loose and pulled the old switch through the dash. The connectors came apart with a little coaxing. I dug out the replacement switch that I found despite buying it 16 years (and one move) ago. I got the wife to direct me while I tried to line up the switch with the opening in the dash. That's another thing that took a LOT longer than I remember it requiring. UGH! I managed to get the retaining ring on without pushing the switch back through the dash. After installing the knob, it was time to test. The turn signals worked. Now for the hazards...Nothing. Dang it! Fortunately I knew where to look. It was my own blog where I broke down the turn signal circuit. I saw that the white wire from the battery fed the circuit. I checked for continuity between the wire at the dash harness/engine harness junction and the fuse box. No continuity. Dang it! After dinner I removed the center console. I also pulled the stereo. I removed the screws holding down the fuse box so I could pull it toward me for examination. It took about all of 5 seconds to find a connection that pulled loose. I got it reconnected and buttoned up everything. I LOVE removing/replacing stuff for about an hour to work on something for 5 seconds. Anyway, I tested again, and all worked fine. I found the bulbs loose on the tachometer, so I got them plugged in for the turn signal indicators. I tested the horn again. Well, it almost makes noise...I figured it might be time for a new relay. Who knows? I might need to clean or replace the horns. I sat down and ordered a bunch of LED bulbs and looked for a horn relay on RockAuto, Z Car Depot, and MSA. No one has a friggin' horn relay anymore. When the hell did that happen? I found a generic horn relay on ebay and ordered it.

I really like the look of those bumpers! http://bumperautomobile.com/datsun-bumpers.html Maybe the new bumpers from these guys with their new rubber-less. over riders would make the perfect starting point. Hate to chop up an original if you don‘t have to.

You're the one with sunglasses, right? I've seen CO. He's the bearded fellow. Hell, I've ridden around Road Atlanta with you. I know C.O is the handsome bear behind you.

Last one for the night... This is me and Bruce @Captain Obvious taking a selfie in the gift shop at Pike's Peak I'm the one wearing the mask.

As @SteveJ noted, the date has not been nailed down.

I plugged all the holes except two, taped an air chuck onto an inlet and cut the tank all along the seem. Blasted and welded back together.

... a hybrid wins 2021 24 hours of Le Mans. https://www.24h-lemans.com/en/news/toyota-triumphs-in-the-2021-24-hours-of-le-mans-55530

Wally, This recent thread should cover all of your questions:

They are trying for Barber. Talledega Grand Prix is the backup plan. I can tell you that getting the track commitment is one of the most difficult parts of organizing the event. The next most difficult is finding an appropriate locations for the car shows. For instance, for 2018, we approached Chateau Elan for the judged car show (and convention hotel), and they basically said, "Oh Hell F'n NO!" Fortunately for us, Z1 Motorsports had relationships with Road Atlanta and the venue for the People's Choice shows. Anyway, I hope to see a lot of you guys in B'ham.

I second Cliff’s place as the official CZCC ZCON 2022 base camp. Cliff you can give the CZCC Tech Tips Lectures. We’ll bring the beer and food if you do the cooking? [emoji1787] Looks like I got over a year now to get my car road worth of a trip like that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yay! They'll be driving down highway 411 from the North. 2 blocks from my house.

This evening was a short one. I replaced the sealing washers on the banjo fitting of the rear carb. After cranking the starter to run the fuel pump, I verified that it had no leaks, but then I noticed a little fuel on top of the float bowl on the front carb. After changing out the same washers on the front carb, I was ready for an attempt to balance the carburetors. I started with both at 2.5 turns down. I got the engine warm and checked the engine speed. It was about 650 RPM. I bumped up the idle screws and balanced the carburetors with an idle of 750. I then held the engine around 1000 RPM. The back carburetor was pulling according to my air flow meter, but the front didn't budge. I fiddled with the balance screw and a few other things, but nothing changed. I called a Z friend, and we went through a few things and decided that I should test the front damper. Just as I was about to hang up the phone, I noticed that the vacuum advance was still unplugged from when I was getting it out of the way earlier. Oops. Well, with the vacuum leak gone, the front carb seemed to respond MUCH better.

Still needs a tune and bumpers and a myriad of other things, but I started it for the first time in 6.5 years (and since the body was restored) yesterday: Before the restoration, way back in 2011: Totally rusted out pass. floor pan and rockers, mismatched tires, faded non-original color paint, etc etc. I've done everything except the actual body restoration (welding, paint, etc). All the disassembly, reconditioning of parts, reassembly, etc. It's been a LOT of work, and it's not over yet, but... I just wanted to take a short victory lap. Thanks for all the support and great advice.

Quick update: FINALLY finished the car's exterior. 100% done. Need a bath, but it's all there. Feels good. Couldn't have done it without all the great resources here and elsewhere.

Here's an example of the simplest - non-Works - solution, on my good friend Kevin Bristow's historic 'OMT 868K' car at the Goodwood Festival of Speed Forest Rally Stage back in 2011. The bumper is cut into three and the centre section 'dropped' via the addition of vertical brackets. Fairly easy to do, and this style was used by privateers in period so there's an historic link which satisfies certain regulations when necessary:

As part of the homologation process, the 'Drop Bumper' was in fact given a factory part number and made available to the general public. Part number was 62650-E8700. In Works rally team use there was a fairly complex arrangement of braces and supports for the lamp units themselves; the lamp mounting brackets were braced to the front valance as well as the centre part of the bumper, and the whole affair was linked to the sump guard and the sump guard mounts. Little of that would be relevant to, or necessary on, a road car but care in bracing the lamps is quite important in order to avoid 'beam shake'/flicker, as well as stress fractures. You'd struggle (to put it mildly) to find an original E8700 bumper in live captivity, but you could make your own version and this has been done quite successfully by others. Photos save a thousand words:

Carrying on with the making parts for the footrest, and relevent, I needed to make some rivets for my SR/SP replica footrest, you see in the first post. I am using a S30 footrest as the donor here. The original rivets (either type) can't be removed without destroying them, (see ealier post). I wanted them to look original as much as I can.... With the original set up, the rivet holds position on the hoop, and the pivot point is on the foot. I decided to use a M8 coach bolt with a square shoulder, just like JDMjunkies above is using and turn it down. The hole size on the hoop is 6mm, so I drilled and tapped to take the M8 thread. The flat side of the rivet I have done is the correct size, whilst the "star shape" end is cut with a hacksaw. I also put a centre hole in (not what the original had) but the plan is use a centre punch to splay the "star shape" out from the centre. It looks a bit like the original, which I think was a press fit, as these type of rivets are found elsewhere on the CSP311 (seats). Plan is to thread the rivet on, can use the hacksaw blade cuts to tighten with a screwdriver until the required tension, then splay the rivet. It seems to work on some trial threaded bar. I think I need to trim the star part back a bit, it sticks out a little too much, but it is the prototype...

I totally agree. Right now my limit is about 50 miles. All I can stand! I hope I'm well by next Zcon...

Too far for me. It's over 1700 miles away.