Jump to content

Trnelson

Members
  • Posts

    99
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Trnelson


  • User Group: Members


  • Member ID: 34006


  • Rank: EnthuZiast


  • Content Count: 99


  • Content Post Ratio: 0.12


  • Reputation: 54


  • Achievement Points: 778


  • Member Of The Days Won: 0


  • Joined: 11/16/2019


  • Been With Us For: 800 Days


  • Last Activity:


  • Currently:


Clubs

Contact

  • Map Location
    Highlands, NC

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    1971 240z October 1970 build date. It has been slightly modified by PO

Zcar VIN Registry

  • Zcar 1 VIN
    HLS30-12312

Recent Profile Visitors

701 profile views

Trnelson's Achievements

EnthuZiast

EnthuZiast (6/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Reacting Well Rare

Recent Badges

54

Reputation

  1. I have been unfaithful for the last week and this has happened…
  2. Did a 90 mile drive with the Highlands Mountain Motoring group. Met Some great folks and another Z junky!
  3. I did that along with lapping the valves, a light port and polish, new valve seals, new valve springs etc. With everything that I did I can say yes that my oil consumption problem is gone, however it would be impossible to know what solved it. I honestly think I was leaking/ burning oil from a couple different places. The engine still ran pretty well but you could tell it was tired. Now it feels tighter, stronger and cleaner. (my wife will actually ride with me without a mask on so I got that going for me) I'm calling it a success for what I wanted to accomplish at the time. The next time I attempt a rebuild I will buy oversized pistons, rings etc and have the block bored out, crank inspected and ground if necessary. I just wanted to do everything I could on my own on this go around and keep the budget modest.
  4. I apologize for digging up bones, particularly my own…. Just wanted to report that 2400 miles in she is running great! Starts easy, idles great, pulls to redline (to be honest I’ve only redlined a couple times). Compression is 160 to 165 across all 6, did a leak down test on #1 today and according to the gauge I’m well within acceptable leakage, I’m planning to test the rest this weekend but I feel confident that they will be close to #1 Looking forward to getting my Z Therapy carbs, hopefully next month, to seal off the last of the vacuum leaks around the throttle shafts. id like to thank you all for your input
  5. Nice, hopefully early October, September can still be hotter than two cats f…… in a wool sock
  6. Thanks for the replies, guess I’ll look for a locksmith or a pipe stretcher…. The new one works fine, it just doesn’t look as good.
  7. The three pictures show the old key switch with and without the trim ring on it and a pic of the new switch installed. Naturally I failed to check for proper fitment prior to installation.
  8. So my original key switch had a minor idiosyncrasy in that the key had to be in just the right spot in order for it to turn. I ordered a new assembly which seems to be of high quality and works as it should. However, the trim ring is too small by about 1.3mm, to fit around the new key switch. The car is a 71 and I’m not sure if the switch I have replaced was original or not. The new switch looks like crap without a trim ring around it and I don’t think I can live with it. Before I go monkeying with trying to stretch out the trim ring, are there alternative rings that will fit replacement switches? Can the old tumbler be refurbished to work without fiddling with it every time you turn the key? Thanks for any advice
  9. Other than a cap failure, which was handled extremely promptly, I love my 123. While I do prefer the look of the black cap it did fail quickly. Ed had a replacement in my hands in two days which speaks volumes to their customer service. I ordered a Bosch and it looks and feels of higher quality.
  10. Interesting and thank you for sharing that information. I was concerned about the drive shaft length in that conversion, seems like it would be pulled back too much. My existing mount still has the rubber in place it’s just separated from the steel. I honestly have more of a chirp than a clunk. I wonder if it’s possible to some how reattach the two components. Thanks for the feedback
  11. Can the “newer” mount be turned around and fit the “older” diff, trans, drive shaft, mustache bar configuration?
  12. Is this theory or is it truly that easy? I’m getting fed up with the clunk and really don’t want the change everything around it if possible. thanks
  13. Don’t drink the pink sugar!! That stuff will kill you, stick to the Milo’s original sweet tea. Thanks for the info, Hopefully I can get some time soon for my next project. Did you ever get a Mata’s pizza?
  14. Tell me more, share a link. I vaguely recall seeing a thread on the topic but my summer work schedule has limited my Z homework time. thanks
  15. I had good luck with Cardone via Rock auto, about a 2 week turn around
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.