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so i installed the original keyosan denki fuel pump i picked up. i primed the fuel system the way i did before by blowing back on the return line to fill up the fuel filter. started up and drove it around the block for couple minutes and let it idle for about 20 minutes. shut the car off let it sit for 3-4 hours went back outside and the fuel filter was still filled with fuel. started it up no problems starting. we will see if it stays that way while i’m gone for a few days

So, I really do not have a horse in this race, and I am on thin ice because I am not trained as a mechanical engineer. To re-state the original issue I was concerned about the bare metal lying between the mounting holes pressing into the painted surface and damaging it, thus potentially allowing water to create an issue. It seems to me that this mini system (the handle, bracket, backing plate, pivots and springs ... etc) is strengthened because the bracket, AND its backing plate behind the door skin sandwich the door skin. My backyard logic would suggest that all the forces involved with lifting the handle are distributed because of the bracket and the backing plate. Again, backyard logic, if you separate the bracket from the skin it seems to me you change the mechanical system and the skin no longer supports the bracket and backing plate in the same manner, and I don't think it improves the distribution of the force involved. So, to me anything that puts air between the skin and the bracket (a washer of any type) may not be favorable. A strip of hard plastic between the door skin and the bracket sounds better than bare metal but will probably injure the softer paint surface. Again, backyard logic, the thin rubber was meant to be sacrificed to protect the paint, and allow the forces at play to remain relatively unchanged, at least in my own mind. The entire bracket surface is still in contact with the door skin. A thin piece of soft plastic might be better than rubber, because it might be more resilient against the elements, but I am not sure that it would fail before the paint. This is a fun topic because it is more complicated than it appears at first glance. If there is an ME or structural engineer out there this would be a good time to explain what is really going on. My final thought, at least for this reply, is that the bucket is 43+ years old. When we acquired it a number of systems had failed, including seals, rusted metal, ... etc. The metal under the door handle was not a problem. I also do not remember anything remarkable about the paint on either door in this area. My point is that without realizing it I may have started a red herring. The Datsun engineers must have done a pretty good job - it lasted this long.

There was a comment after the auction ended by soquelz, who says "I guess when you get to this level of bidding you want no questions about authenticity." And that about sums it up for me too. If I'm going to pay a lot of money for a car who's "value" lies in it's low mileage and it's originality, I don't want it to come with piles of questions about either of those two things. It's a beautiful car. I'd love to own it. But it's priced way out of my range. And it's important to understand the REASON for such a high price. The REASON for the high price isn't simply because it's beautiful. It's because it's supposed to be a 31K mile car that is all original. If it wasn't being sold as a 31K mile car, or being held up as that beacon of originality, it would most likely not command such a price. Much of the VALUE is in the low mileage and the originality. It seems to me that when there are credible questions about the mileage and the originality, the value cannot be supported. I expect this car will be back sometime in the not too distant future. With the "period correct" carbs and plated hardware and "period correct" wheel covers and no overspray and the seats on the correct sides and, and, and, and........ And, a better, more conclusive story. And if we see it again, I hope it's presented as "Stock", but not "Original". For example... In order for it to be "ORIGINAL", they would have to find the ORIGINAL carbs. And the ORIGINAL wheel covers, etc. I hope they don't try to convince anyone that they magically and mysteriously found the original carbs and wheel covers and put them back on the car. After all the claims of complete originality of the car as it stands today, I would be skeptical of the legitimacy that story.

I predicted six figure Z's a few years ago when we started to see $50-60k cars. I was told I was crazy. It actually happened faster than I predicted it would. Now $310k is hard for me to fathom but evidently I'm out of touch... I've always wanted a low number car (sub 1000) and almost pulled the trigger a couple of times. I don't really want that anymore and am starting to lean towards 260's and 280's because I don't want to run errands in my $60k 240z. I would rather leave my $15k 260 in the parking lot unattended... This all assumes I ever own a running Z again...

If you are talking about the basic kit, some people have commented having little improvement over the drum brakes and actually having problems via front and rear bias using the toyota 4-pot calipers up front. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21m/24-5581 It's more bling bling than an improvement. I have the standard setup with porterfiels pads AP114 RS-4 and shoes SHOE480 RS-4. Excellent result. Mho: The common problem with "street" brake conversions is the R&D in the particular conversion. Yes the parts individually are sound and reliable, but the combination and balance is based on sometimes as little as a couple of parking lot runs to determine balance between front and rear. In conditions like an emergency stop at 100km/hr they can react completly different. The standard system has gone through rigorous testing in the factory and years of custumer service. Restoring the brake system to original condition with better pad and shoe compounds is generally a better choice.

The "book values" sometimes lump the L24 and L26 values together, which doesn't make complete sense. No engine runs exactly the same so I'd always be prepared to move "off book" with Weber jetting. I run an F7 emulsion tube and the only place that said that was the way to go was the Deshammill book; all the online Datsun stuff said I should run a leaner emulsion tube. In this case I'd have a hard time believing the 60F6 idle jet is the right one for the L26. I'm sure it guarantees the car will start when you bolt on the Webers by virtue of being so rich, which might be why they spec the kit with them. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk

I've read that detonation can cause the plug gap to close. Detonation does a lot of damage, it can look foreign object damage on the piston top. All it takes is a hot day, some low octane fuel, maybe having the timing off a bit. I like Mark's suggestion. Try a new plug and see how it does. Everything else looks pretty good, the pressure numbers and the other plugs. The pressure numbers are on the high end though, which might mean a high CR, which might be a reason for detonation. If you do hear knocking you can just dial the timing back a few degrees and should be safe.

Have you only just noticed? Meanwhile, the S30-series Z was conceived, designed, engineered and produced from 1969 with countless details which tell us that it was not "designed" solely for the USA market. That's the key word. Solely... It makes complete sense for Nissan to have included the holes for the impact bumpers in the (new!) press tooling for the rear panel, and for them to use that rear panel pressing across all market variants. They did the same thing from the beginning of production in many ares of the car. Do you look at the radiator support panel on your '69 car and go through the same thought process? If not, why not?

Wants too much for shipping, I'll pass...

I was just going to ask what that area looked like when you took the car apart. In my experience I've not seen that area damaged either so I'm not sure there is a need to re-engineer it.

Typical dutch name PIET .. he was Dutch you know... It was actually Mondriaan.

Klassic Fab has been manufacturing quality VW Bus floor replacements for years and has recently started manufacturing floor pans and frame rails, etc for 240Zs and for other vintage Japanese cars. Here's their website: https://kfvintagejdm.com/ Pictures courtesy of The 240z Guild.

These floor pans from KF match up with the tunnel really well. No need to slot floor pans and a BFH , they fit .

Derek over on Hybridz is a really capable guy. He has designed, cast, and built his own cylinder for the L6's, among many other things. He is a member here also. He had some comments about the ZCD kit. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131360-rear-disk-kit-from-zcar-depot-anyone-using-it/

I am not a pro welder and sometimes I struggle but I don't really judge my welds by the back side. For starters your seam of buttons looks pretty good. I have found though if the gap is too tight my welds aren't as good. I want a skinny 1/16 or so to bridge, not butted up tight. Also your test piece has a lot of splatter. Are you running shield gas? are you close enough? Is thee flow high enough? Did you clean the test piece first?

I certainly don't feel bad. I didn't like this car from the beginning. BaT has an interesting feature where you can track sale prices over a number of years and the Datsun 240Z has a very distinct line of average sale prices to help you determine "the market". Type in "Datsun 240Z" in the BaT search bar and you will get a graph. Each bullet on the graph links to the actual listing. What has sold in the six figures have been Vintage Zs and provinance Zs like the Franklin Mint Car. Then there was the 300k car that is way out there in oddball land. I think this no-sale was good for the market in that what The Guild said; once you get into the six figure area, it really gets nit-picky, and it should.

Guestimates: MOR - More Or Less ROM = Rough Order of Magnitude SWAG = Swinging Wild arse Guess A “little” a “lot” are relative terms. To me, it is worth a lot - how many people have $30,000.00 in savings? For that matter how many people can plunk down $30K for a fun purchase? Regardless, the fact is you did the research and now both you and your Parents are in a better position - should any need to actually sell the Z arise. That's a Good Thing.

An intelligent man with more time than most and an internet connections. Woof! I'm glad you and I are friends. Thanks Ms. Mark.

Damn, makes me want to do large scale rust repair again (I'm sure I'll come to my senses shortly). Using pieces like these, assuming they fit, would have made life SO much better on past jobs.

I just received my floor pan parts and full rear frame rails from KF Vintage JDM and they look great. I would definitely recommend them. They arrived well packaged in three business days from Bogata Columbia to my address in BC, Canada.

any factually accurate post seems to get removed. what we should do, is have 5-10 of us 'report' every 'Larry' and '240zguild' post. that would stop their dire use of our range of cars to line their pockets.

Maybe? OKC, 405.

Madkaw, if you email me your info, I will send you the parts that you mention...please email me at gerson@klassicfab.com, and I apologize for my assistant not getting back with you...I will find out what hapened with your email/response tomorrow morning...

Jason, That isn't our job. The fellow's reputation has nothing to do with Kustom Fab.

As people on this forum have said for years, "Save your receipts, your owners manual, your window sticker, your original bill of sale, anything that documents the history of the car or makes it a little more special than the rest." as it will add to the luster when it comes time to sell. That all worked for the BaT seller. I don't have much from my Z other than the original bill of sale. But, for my Porsche 914-6, I have documents from the original, and subsequent, owners as well as an accordion folder full of restoration receipts. All good to have for the next owner. With the Avanti, I have a copy of the original factory production order as well as the six page final assembly line inspection checklist. Best of all, I have hand written letters from the designer, Raymond Loewy, noting the Avanti's VIN. Provenance should probably be spelled Provenan$e. Dennis