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Forgot to add pic. This really works well for securing the vinyl.

Having worked as a journeyman mechanic for 30 years, I have changed out hundreds of engines, transmissions, and differentials, in all manner of machinery and vehicles. The process is pretty much the same, be it a tractor, car, heavy truck or trailer mounted equipment. Most important is good planning beforehand, selection of quality tooling, and having enough room and an organized work area. Reasons for removing (and subsequently reinstalling) an engine or transmission separately might be that one requires repair or maintenance, while the other doesn't, or, when performing a full restoration of a car. Then it makes sense to join the engine and transmission before installing them in the car. I even dress the engine fully before dropping it in to reduce the amount of time spent bending over the fenders afterwards. I lost count of how many times I have removed and replaced the engine in my race Z, but the last time was after the crankshaft broke. Nothing wrong with the transmission, so I rigged up a way to hold the front of it, and pulled the engine only. Soon, I will be pulling the engine and transmission from my brown 72 Z. I will be pulling them together, as the engine needs a rebuild, and the transmission (an automatic) won't be going back in. And when I reinstall everything, it will most likely be as a unit. So there isn't really a right or wrong way to remove and install these things, provided it is done safely.

Leaks from the fitting? Can use Teflon tape, or permatex thread sealer and see if that helps.

At least Dr. Fauci is safe, they won't let him in the WH anymore because he has this nasty habit of telling the truth.

Well yeah! I snipped it from your thread in 2013. You are the man Chas! So helpful to everyone. And to the OP there's what I call a top hat seal in there too. Be very careful those are nla. Use good thick teflon tape on everything and you'll be good to go.

A virus? Huh... Spreading like herpes at a Whore House, see that, WH.

My son painted mine also. He sent another sneak peek pic of it in the sun. Love it!

got it fixed. put some teflon on plug. There was a small rubber O ring slightly inside. It was causing leak. Once i removed it and tightened....no leak

I understood the original question to be "If both engine and transmission are out, is it better to install the engine and transmission as a unit, or drop the engine in first and then the transmission". In that case I would always do them as a unit unless something (maneuvering room, availability of a leveler) prevents it. If only the engine or the transmission needs to be removed, then yeah, only remove that - no need to remove both just to service one.

I agree. Any of the three ways are a piece of cake compared to removing and replacing those parts on most cars.

or

Here's the post that mentions it. You might have the switch that you can jump or might just have an ECU that will drop fuel by 6% if you short the pins. Keep it in mind.

I did not know we could do member polls. Maybe I shouldn't have known. Let the polling begin!

The ZXT 5 speed was made by Borg Warner. There is a bunch of discussion about the ATF spec around the interwebs. The ATF spec is correct, from what I've gathered. Some people suggest that the needle bearings might not get proper lubrication using the thicker fluid. I have a Ford 5 speed with Ford ATF, Mercon V, as the spec'ed fluid. It had shifting problems though so I switched to Pennzoil Synchromesh. Lower viscosity than 75W-90 but higher than ATF. It's been great and fixed the problem but the Ford guys say I'm going to ruin it if I don't use Ford product in it (that's what all Ford guys say though). That was 30,000 miles ago. Use this in the Google and there's a bunch - "borg warner t5 transmission fluid type".

check for cracks near the drain port or porous welds

FWIW, I went S12W callipers and vented Peugeot 505 discs at the front, with mintex pads, but left the 7/8 MC in as I like to make one change at a time and learn about the difference that one change made. The net result is I have never been left wanting for stopping power on track days and spirited road driving. Never any fade. I actually really like the pedal action as it makes it even easier to heal and toe on downshifts. Having experienced it, I personally don’t think it’s worth the hassle to change out the MC, have to re-adjust the rod and/or change the booster. But it’s a case of personal preference. Disc specs ... EBC Part Code: D117 Peugeot 505 2.2 Turbo Year: 79-92 Bolt Holes: 4 Diameter: 273mm Height (Laid Flat): 43mm Thickness: (New/Min): 20/18mm UK cost £74 a pair. Ps. I had to grind 4mm off the fins on the callipers as my 14” wheels have some serious offset and would bind on them.

I did exactly what Zed Head did on my O'Reilly radiator too but I didn't drill a hole for draining. I have to pull the lower hose off to get the fluid out. I also used Teflon tape as Heyitsrama suggest.

The seal is not good. I used a steel bolt on my OReilly Auto radiator. Drilled a hole in it so it worked like the plastic ones. It's surprising how few options there are for those plugs, and all of the options are poor quality.

I've painted the compartment with the engine in place, but almost everything else had been removed -- wiring harness, intake and exhaust manifolds, and most of the hard lines (only the long fuel/emissions pipes coming in from the trans tunnel remained in place). You'll need a detailing gun to be able to work in the cramped spaces. Certain areas can't be sprayed at the optimum angle. Certain other areas (e.g. bottom of the hood latch bracket) are hard to get paint on at all. You'll need to hold the gun backwards in some places (i.e. pointed toward you). There where a few places where I began to think that an airbrush would have done a better job than the detail gun. Because of the awkward spray angles, you'll get a lot of rough-surface painted areas that will need to be sanded down afterwards to achieve a decent final finish quality. That's a lot of work. I can't see doing this job without removing the intake and exhaust --- and most of the hydraulic lines. Unfortunately, getting those lines off is something that requires a lot of care and patience. Those tiny little 'bolts' used on the clamps are often seized. You do not want to snap one off because there's little to zero chance you'll be able to extract the frozen-in-place remainder. A light-duty hand-held impact driver worked well for me on these little bolts. By the time you get finished, it will probably seem like it would have been a better idea to have just pulled the engine and removed the wiring harness.

Zcon will be in Colorado Springs in 2021 - i plan on driving up to try it, maybe you can give it a 2nd shot then haha

it was nerve wracking for sure. I am sure the other cars must have thought I was nutz.

I think that using a parallel circuit flattens the curve, whereas a series circuit moves the whole curve up. The ECU expects a certain curve rate. Probably create new problems. CO and SteveJ probably draw charts in their heads on this kind of stuff. @Captain Obvious @SteveJ

In the 30 years I've owned this car I don't think the wheel color has changed. Car has only been used for "joy riding" and garaged since day 1 that I've owned it. The original owner kept it garaged when home, but did use it to commute some. I keep the wheels clean and think the wear of the paint on the wheel spokes shows some character and that the car actually has been used over its 50 year life and about 110,000 miles.

Great minds think alike and I agree, I kind of have to after making up a new chimney already. I figured I would make up a panel with to fit underneath the dash with some rivnuts and use a gasket to seal it off.

Ordered oct 5, on my front door in Vancouver Oct 8th, unreal service thanks rhdjapan. Dropping this off at the coaters this morning and at first cut, it looks favorable that the SG center section will bolt right into the flange. Literally a bag of snakes:

I am really happy to hear that Hung Vu will be producing 75/76 (and presumably 74) door panels. I've never understood why there are aftermarket ones available for 77/78 but not 74-76 - I always ASSume that the hard part is shaping and producing the card itself and that it could be adapted for either (and maybe even for the 70-73), but I guess if it were that easy someone would have done it by now. FWIW, several years ago I did manage to find a set of aftermarket panels for my 76. They are not quite right (NONE of the holes are where they should be, and they are actually a little too short front-to-back), but the shape and fabric were way better than my originals. The biggest problem was the hole for the release handle which was about half an inch too far forward. I made a little rectangular trim piece to cover the gap around the handle. Not really happy with the end result, so I'll be keeping an eye open for Hung Vu's offering.

If you are talking about the coolant temp sensor circuit to the ecu Charles, then if the circuit and sensor are working properly - adding resistance to the circuit with a rheostat will only add fuel. The ecu will think the coolant is colder and compensate with more fuel - make it richer. Unfortunately, you can't go the other way - leaner, unless you were to adjust the afm to a lean condition beforehand in an attempt to get the pot somewhere in the middle of its range and then you could adjust the mixture up and down accordingly. I wish my old bank account drifted richer over time ...

i ordered it. will update the thread when it comes in

Pretty similar. Bet the rear arms fit the same way, just swap on your Z arm. at the very worst you might have to file off or modify the little protrusions that fit the notches, or file out the notches to fit the new lock. Hmmmm, someone needs to add better lighting on this parts room table.....

Mmm That photo looks familiar😁 Like site already mention. There is a o-ring seal on the outside of the adator and a lip seal inside for the pinion.

The fluid expands a lot though when it's warm. So, do it when the engine and transmission are cool.

While the Z is at my place, my Bodyshop gave me some homework: To completely strip the chassis from all the seam sealer, undercoating, bondo and paint so that it's easier for him to remove old welds and weld new stuff... started by removing the biggest chunks in the front inner fender area with a spatula. but after an hour i realized i need a faster solution. After a bit of research, i found this tihng called Turbo-Igel (Turbo Hedgehog). The name comes from the "hook" style spikes that remind of a hedgehog This thing works absolutely brilliantly and isnt really agressive to the metal due to it's unique shape. The problem is, after 10 minutes the effect really starts to weaken since the hooks get dull. but you still can u se it totally for about 30minutes at a maximum speed of 3500 rpm. then all the hooks are gone 🙂 With two disks i managed to get this much done in approx. 2 hours of work: Well and while the car got cleaner, i got dirtier 🙂 And i removed approx 3-4 kgs of Bondo / Paint, underbody coating, seam sealer etc.. Still a lot to do. for me and the bodyshop. can you see all those terribly cheap repair attempts from previus owner? And rusty spots? And dents where there shouldn't be? Well... i've come too far to stop now, i guess 🙂

Yes there's two, the one in my pics and an o-ring. Speedo pinion seal 32709-14600 Speedo pinion o-ring 32710-14600

ROFLMAO - I did wonder how someone as wise as you had made that suggestion! [emoji1787] I need to sleep more and regrow the sense of humour!

Here's that speedo washer i bought from local Nissan. P/N #32709-14600. They don't stock them but can get it overnight. It goes down in here. Not sure if @EuroDat posted these numbers yet but I found them on one of his old post.

Hung Vu is the guy. He makes the replacement dashes and is an awesome guy and supplier.

This was meant as a joke. Thanks AK for clarifying.

It turned out to be a fuel issue. The fuel pump was cutting out after start up. I had the safety oil pressure switch wired wrong.

Grats. Poor quality oil or low level can cause a lot of shifting issues. Yet another happy AC Delco/GM gear lube sucess story. Speedo leak: Where exactly is the oil coming from? Leaking out the side of the adapter, then it's an o-ring seal between the adaptor and the transmission housing. If it is leaking through the cable itself, than it is a leaking lip-seal in the adaptor where the speedo pinion shaft goes through. The speedo has an o-ring seal and a lip seal. It is easy to change both. They cost less than $10 for both seals. You will need to tap out a small roll pin, but with basic tools it's is not much work. Simply unscrew the speedo cable and the 10mm hex (m6) bolt and locating tab. You can pry the adaptor out using a flat screwdriver in the locating tab slot. You will see the roll pin passing through to the side of the pinion shaft. It holds the pinion in place. You can tap it out with a small hammer and a blunt wood nail. See tech article for the part numbers. You can also source the parts at a local (hydraulics) parts store. Make sure you ask for NBR, HNBR or Viton rubber. Don't use EPDM or Silicone.

It is, Chuck. I hope Ford tested it in an F-250 or a Focus and not a Crown Vic! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Changed trans lube today! What a difference! Used 2qts AC Delco 10-4014. No problem downshifting now. Thank you! What I did discover, was the speedo cable connection appears to be leaking. How do I correct that issue? Or should I start a new thread?

There's a hole you have to fill with JB Weld when you block of the BCDD I'm pretty sure. Those things don't go bad, they just need fine tuning. 3 or 4 laps around the block and I had mine dialed in. Here's some info. https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=SV1-X-6qGoiQ5wKqg7vYBQ&q=bcdd+block+off+classiczcars.com+&oq=bcdd+block+off+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADOggIKRAWEAoQHjoCCCk6BQgpELEDOgcIKRDJAxBDOgUIKRDJAzoFCCkQoAE6BQgpEM0COgQIKRBDOgsILhCxAxCDARCTAjoFCAAQsQM6CAgAELEDEIMBOgIIADoICAAQsQMQyQM6BQgAEMkDOgQIABAKOgcIABDJAxANOgQIABANOgUIIRCgAToFCAAQzQI6BQghEKsCUKsXWKBsYJN5aABwAHgAgAHEAYgB2RSSAQQwLjE5mAEAoAEBsAEP&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp

Nice way to install the inertia switch on a 75-77.

Don’t even!!!! What you are doing is widening or narrowing the annulus area of the jet by doing that and using different parts of the needle. Do it right and do it once! Otherwise you will waste a lot of time chasing your tail. Ask me how I know. The float adjustment being right is mega important on these carbs.

Clear coat applied this morning. Extremely happy with the color choice. Hood, hatch, doors and other misc. parts will be painted tomorrow.

Yeah, that seems to work okay with trans studs into bell housing, but not so much for bell housing to block. Install has gotta be a be a bit easier than my Sunbeam Tiger! Engine has to be pulled with trans to get to trans or clutch. Tight fit! 😓. On Tiger you can go out the top, or drop subframe and drop out the bottom. Choose the scary way.

I agree Mike. The high end sports car do center and I like it.

I liked it before as it has the rear hatch and the triangle quarter windows. But, the big square grill was my one dissent. This rendering fixes that. Nice! I'd like to see the headlights tweeked to look more sugar scoopish as well.

I might as well say it - I see a lot of potential virus transmitters wandering around. The sickness and death are turning in to background noise now, but for those still thinking about those things, it's worth noting. How were the happy hours? Indoors and boozy? Lots of laughter? It's our new world. Do the risk assessment. Those college kids will be spreading it for the holidays.

What's worse: you saying that, or me immediately knowing where that came from?