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I finally got around to installing my s30 world seals. Its definitely something you dont want to Rush and should bend the U shape carriers into semi final form first. And be careful as you can not to rip the top corner...mine is on and im as please as can be. I've tried every other seal out there and slam slam...not with these im so happy with them. Amazing product!

I have this system on my 240z with SUs. The header simply bolts onto the head (obviously) and I had the header ceramic coated to keep the heat down. I know nothing about the efi systems on a 280, but if it is all on the intake side like a carb then you could have heat issues or more likely fitment issues. The header mounts cleanly on my head, I bet it would on your 280 but without knowing first, it could be a very costly error. And I'm the king of costly exhaust mistakes...

Thanks Guys, ya CanTechZ I saw the note, thanks again. I had a hell of a time with my first set on installation but that was definitely a "me" thing so Chris was super kind to send me a replacement of the rubber side. I will definitely have a second set of hands with me to preserve the integrity of the the 90 degree joint, plus I'll move the car into the driveway for way more space. I'm really looking forward to installing these seals, and I also have an S30 fuel tank to install as when I restored mine, I have always felt there is powder coat inside the tank that continually fills my filters way too soon so I went nuclear with one of their reproduction tanks. It looks really nice, too. Cheers

Any progress on your installation? I sent you a pm too...cheers!

Exactly, fingers crossed! That'd be amazing, and could account for when my tach works perfectly to 4,000 rpms then basically hangs there irrespective of engine speed. Worked great before and I have to say this distributor is a fantastic upgrade. Even with carbs being hot or cold, it bang starts all the time.

I have the one at the coil but not the alternator. The pin snapped off last time I was tinkering and I haven't added it back. I thought it was only for radio noise suppression? I may have invented that point however.

I don't believe the 280zx had a ballast resistor. The coil I'm using is the ngk 48776 which supposedly measures out at .93 ohms. I should measure mine...

The 280zx swap in mine is factory Nissan and the distributor was rebuilt by Advance Distributors before installation. Plus it works verified up to 4k rpms by my timing light so while I'm not adverse to installing an early 280z Distributor with a face plate swap, it would be interesting yo see why some 240z tachs work perfectly with the same swap and others fail at varying degrees. Mine is a 73 tach...

Interesting, I'm experiencing a tach that works great with my 280zx distributor until 4,000 rpms then stalls out and won't rev any further. I'm leaning towards the coil as well and am going to try this one out. Just to clarify, the engine runs great to redline, it's just the tach that stalls out at around 4,000 rpms. I confirmed it reads correctly until then with a timing light.

Finally, here is the label off the o rings behind the fuel pump reed valves. Are you still running points?

This guy made his own: https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/datsun-240z-mechanical-fuel-pump-rebuild/ I'm not that patient or talented so I ordered mine I think from McMaster Carr. I'll confirm later today.

The seals I found did not come in a kit. The rebuild kit I bought had incorrect seals so after a lot more digging, I found the correct profile thickness as the ones in the kits were too thin. I'll have a look tonight for you. 3 to 5 psi is correct fuel pressure for mechanical fuel pump in our cars. Add heat and it sounds like your pump is really struggling.

1 to 3 psi cold? That's low to me, I think you're onto something. Of all the pumps I messed with, even new ones, it wasn't until I found the right seals for the reed valves did it finally resolve. Then I had to go back and fix all the bandaid tweaks I did the the SUs before hand, to get it semi stable. Runs like a champ now.

I can tell you this, if you don't have exactly the correct white seals behind the reed valves they will leak air. I went through two separate rebuild kits and until I found the correct seals, the issues I had remained and they sound exactly like yours. If you can pull fuel pressure after the pump that would help...but low levels in your filters are telling.

I'm going fuel pump too. The easy test is to pull it off and make sure it's pulling and pushing vacuum adequately. I went down an epic fuel pump rabbit hole and finally figured out the reed valve seal was the primary issue in all the ones I pulled apart. They have to fit perfectly and while I can't recall the exact size, I believe McMaster Carr was kind enough to sell me 100 as a minimum lot. I can have a look at the package later as need be.