ollie

Maybe you can pick up something off this recent bat listing of a 73 that appears quite original. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-84/ Nice hammer price too.

I'm away until tomorrow night but I will look at mine when I get back to town.

Thanks, KONI Lee, for adding some color to the discussion, I am definitely ordering a set for my 240Z.

Here you go, Duff. Cheers

Set to zero with the car off then adjust with the collar if necessary...the brass fitting screws into the same threads as the damper so it is sealed. I should load up a video but this shows the tool in action, albeit on a rolls:

I would not be able to close the hood and the shaft needs to be straight in order to function correctly. You could perhaps cushion the hood for a quick and safe run on empty road to read the gauge from the car. I could clearly see the readings from the drivers seat but I wouldn't recommend it. I do have a unisync and could definitely try reading flow on that at 3000 rpms later today. I will report back.

The kit from British Tool Works arrived today so I used that as motivation to leave the office early. The tools arrived very well packaged and are of a high quality as far as I can tell anyway. I warmed up the car and while I the salt on the roads will keep me from a road test I can say that I am super impressed with the results. Here are 2 pics, one before I fired the car up and one after balancing. The cool part is you can easily see what the carbs are doing not only at idle but under throttle too. Needless to say that when I first fired the car the readings were way out. One thing I figured out is my linkage was a bit wonky so one carb was always running faster so once that was sorted all went well. Anyway I am super pleased with this tool and if you need all the help you can get like I do with carbs, I whole recommend this kit. Kelly is the fellow who makes it at British Tool Works. Let me know if you have any questions. Please ignore my origami of a heat shield, it is temporary until I can fab one up as that Spirit Garage header is way more prominent than the Stahl one was which is now a tripping hazard in my garage which I really should do something about. Cheers everyone.

I'm all over this, thanks for posting. Externally adjustable front and rear too, that's awesome. Subscribed.

For sure, thanks for posting that wand...it looks very similar to the rolling dyno smog test they used to do here in town. I'm going to try that in pipe band one and will order an O2 wideband kit tonight. There's a set of triple mikuni 44's i can't get out of my head so as soon as I get the SU's dialed in I will go make the car run like crap all summer while I sort those out 🙂

This would work here: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/wideband-uego-air-fuel-controllers/no-weld-o2-sensor-mounts

hahaha definitely. If you have a particular brand of wideband O2 sensor that would be great to know, all the ones I have found so far are the threaded type but I sure could look harder. Cheers

So tell me more about how one would use a wide band O2 sensor with a car like ours don't those need to be threaded into the exhaust like a typical modern O2 sensor? I clearly need to do more reading...anyway my bar is set pretty low as my carbs have not been well tuned. I've read yours, and many others, summaries for tuning SU's and finally spent the time to understand these better so the car is running so much better. When I saw this kit that allows for readings of both carbs it seemed to make sense to me.

Hi everyone, I ran across this carb sync kit that is made by a Rolls guy and will work for our SU's. I should have it by the weekend but if you're like me and are looking for an option other than the uni-sync you might want to check it out: https://www.britishtoolworks.com/product-page/su-h6-carburetor-synchronizing-kit I think this will be more accurate (for myself anyway) since you can measure both carbs at the same time, sort of similar to the original SU carb tuning with the metal rods. Cheers

As for that filter, I bet that contaminant is from the lines, not the tank. I had my tank boiled, welded and then powder coated during the restoration. I have continued to struggle with a fueling issue after assembly and the filters filled with black junk continually. I then get a literal "drip, drip, drip" stream of fuel because I was too lazy and stupid to properly clean the lines when they were out of the car since they were in such good shape. Gas is an excellent solvent and over time and 4 filters this is on the way to resolving itself and it finally seems to be flowing properly after one more blast of the lines with carb cleaner and 60 psi last weekend. If he filter clogs up again I am going the classic tube replacement route before the yet to be procured Mikunis go on the car. So if possible don't be a dummy like me, if you get the tank done do not overlook the lines because they're all nice and clean on the outside...