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Dan - Here's the update on the Molotow Chrome Pens: I thoroughly cleaned the lettering area at the top left with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip, most of the silver Sharpie and any prior chrome came off. Used the 1mm pen to cover the text. Cleaned the rest of the plate - note the silver Sharpie did not come off the long lines. Finished the text at top right with the 1mm pen and the long lines with the 2mm pen. I'm well pleased with the outcome - a very shiny chrome finish. I highly recommend this product, will be using it to update other areas in my car! Jim

And without these forums everyone has to reinvent the wheel each time they come to this problem.

Sorry, missed that you wanted the decal numbered. Mike at Banzai had someone stencil my engine (brand new) serial number (in the engine bay) engine plate. Call him.....if anyone knows where to get it done it would be him.

Just drove it! Got a ignition problem fixed and made a club run with a local car club

This is another interesting NOS part that I recently acquired. Electric Fuel Pump upgrade.

Now that all the (known) issues have been addressed and edited, I have updated Revision N to the download section. Changes to Revision N 1) Fixed wire colors going to oil pressure sender and tachometer resistor. 2) Changed fusible link positions to reflect correct positions on vehicle. 3) Changed internal picture of alternator. N77ZCAR-WIRING.pdf

Yes, indeed. I (wrongly) *thought* that you were looking at the table, and either was dyslexic or typed in the information you saw backwards. Until I opened the fiche, zoomed into that feature to 150%, it became clear to me at that point that there were 3 key #5 and one key 6 in the picture. With all the information discussed earlier, we can safely assume that the key numbers shown in the picture area are backwards. I apologize for responding that way, it was uncalled for, as well as inappropriate to add in this discussion.

Almost forgot to add that since I sold my BMW, I bought a new daily driver beast but the really exciting addition is the 1984 Nissan Skyline Dr30 with the fj20et!! The dr30 has become my favorite classic skyline and I love the history of them. This one is R34 GTR Nurburgring Millenium jade with a glass out full respray, coilovers, bump steer spacers, Cusco bars, Nismo LSD diff, big turbo, FMIC, oil cooler, SSR FT1 wheels, r32 rear brakes, Recaro seat, Nardi wheel, super clean interior an old school Denon head unit etc etc. I had been searching Japan for a really nice stock one but this car was about as close to what I would want to build as I could imagine. I had a friend of a friend in Tokyo go inspect it in person and he said it's simply incredible and extremely well built. The guys who brokered the deal for me saw it and said the same. It should be getting on a ship here in the next week or so and then 4-5 weeks until it arrives at the port. The only issue with the car that I could see was a broken lens on the driver rear tail light, some slight fitment issue with passenger front headlight, one ding on passenger rear quarter and the hood must be fiberglass or carbon as you can see the waviness. I was incredibly lucky to find a set of brand new NOS tail lights which are honestly the most amazingly beautiful parts I have ever received for any car period. I thought they were just really clean used ones but they are brand spanking new and almost too stunning to even install. Amazing that Nissan was designing such a cool tail light design back in the early 80's! My only plans for the car are having the bottom half wrapped in gunmetal grey along with the RS Turbo DOHC graphics added like the typical red/black "iron mask" people are so familiar with. And although I do like those SSR wheels, I don't like them in black so will either have powdercoated or sell and get watanabe's. I also plan to remove the racing seat and maybe part of the roll cage.

I actually tried this (may have read it on one of your posts on a different thread) but I experienced mixed success. The RTV stayed put on some items and not on others. Not sure why that was. Your 'in house' tumbling is probably a big help since you can see if the RTV held or not. Got the transmission and drive shaft cleaned up and installed. Also picked up an Exedy Clutch kit from Rockauto. Installed the throwout bearing on the sleeve and installed on the transmission along with the fork. I will drop the motor in next weekend. Had to throw in an engine bay before pic just for reference.

It is funny how some of us look at things differently. I saw three 5 arrows and one 6 arrow in the picture, then went down to see what 5 and 6 were, in the table. The table says that 5 is a 1.25, and 6 is a 0.3. I stopped there, with three 1.25's and one 0.3. That was my path of thought. But, once you're looking at the table, you can look to the right to see quantity and you see one 1.25 and three 0.3's. So the diagram is redundant, but the redundancies don't match. And if you look closely you can't really tell where the arrows for 5 and 6 on the front "case" are pointing. They both end at the inboard link. I'm just glad the little sticker-picture on my car is well-drawn and intact. I hope it's correct.

More progress, should be laying down the color next week

This should pretty much cover it. BTW, if anyone close to Dinwiddie wants to join us, we’d love to have you.

My kid went out and had a little photo shoot with our Z the other day… Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Fixed ! Got a set! ( I know no one will see it later but) Damn! That looks so much better than the patch job ....

One bed frame down!

Banzai Motorworks sells factory links and factory covers individually and for cheaper, check it out @ www.zzxdatsun.com

They will probably have one at your local big box parts store too.

Thank you - I have been blessed by your skillful review and I'm confident we are at the end of the revisions. I'm pretty sure you'd sleep better at ZCon... LOL.... Seriously, a huge thank you to you and Chas for being so patient with me with this revision. A special kudo's goes out to @EuroDat for starting the recent fusible link thread to confirm what was already suspected. I also wish to thank all of the private messages I have received regarding this diagram. I appreciate and am also humbled by all the kind words regarding this diagram.

Is that not the narrow band O2 sensor location from a ZX manifold? Never seen an early manifold with a need for either an EGR fitting or O2 sensor that would explain that hole. Unless it was a later user added "feature" Anyway if its O2 bung thread, its M18x 1.5. https://www.google.com/search?q=280zx+exhaust+manifold&rlz=1C9BKJA_enCA668CA668&oq=280zx+exhaust+manifold&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l3.6099j1j7&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=wbMsjPBtTsxSnM:

Keep an eye, or a finger, on the coil to be sure it's not over-heating with full current running through it. Good luck.

Not a problem. I don't always maintain the nicest tone in my own posts. The internet is not the world's best communication tool. Now, off to go comment on CO's last post...

Two reasons really: One, I have always done it this way. I actually find it pretty easy to do it this way and can usually do the whole process by myself. The only tricky part is the final mate in getting the trans shaft splines to line up with the clutch plate splines. Usually just a little rocking of the motor does the trick. Also, I am not lifting as much weight. Second, my garage ceiling is a bit low and not really sure if I can get the height I need when the two are mated. I can touch my garage ceiling when standing on my toes, so maybe its 8.5 feet high. I haven't tried it, so I can't say for sure, but I am thinking it would be an issue. My driveway is sloped, so that wouldn't work as an alternate location. Would have to move to the street to get flat surface and not really sure that I want to do that, cause then I have to push it up hill into the garage.

Thanks Wayne!!! Looks great! This is a fantastic tool for all of us. Don't know what we would do without you.

Is the throw of the push rod from the pedal correct?

I might have a spare. I would need to look around some

What drove the choice to mate the engine to the tranny in the car? It is so much easier to do out of the car but a little more challenging to place in the car as one piece

Doors were hammered! A little welding and some USC Metal Filler later. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Banzai Motorworks sells them. zzxdatsun.com

We’ll get there at 5.....start running at 6. Hope to get a least 3 runs. Would love to have you join us.

I think I see what Zed head is saying. If you look at the drawing, the number 5 points to the rear two fusible links and the front engine side link. Number 6 points to the fender side link. That all makes sense now we know the layout is 3 brown links 0.3mm2 and one black link 1.25mm3. Looking at the table, I read Key number 5 is one link with 1.25mm2 rating and key number 6 is three with 0.3mm2 rating. When you look at the documentation, you find a number of inconsistencies or mistakes. For people that know the cars and worked out the problems it's not a issue, but for someone new to these cars, it's confusing at least.

Hitachi D606-52 was stock European/UK market HS30/HLS30 'Datsun 240Z' distributor. Has 'fast' advance curve, hence sold as 'performance' distributor by Datsun Competition in USA.

You would have to have a sensitive meter to measure the resistance. While the red link should have about half of the resistance of the brown, the contact of the meter leads on the ends of the fusible links would probably create more resistance.. Here are the AWG approximations of the different fusible link sizes along with the resistance of those wires in milliohm/foot. AWG mm^2 mOhm/ft Black 16 1.31 4.016 Red 19 0.65 8.051 Brown 22 0.33 16.14

If only someone made cards for the 75-76 280’s....

I drove my 83 280zx until the engine was hot enough to cause a vapor lock on start up after being parked about ten minutes in 90 degree heat. The fan that cools the fuel rails never kicked on. I knew the fan worked properly because after turning the engine off I pulled the lead from the thermostat switch located on the thermostat housing and ground it, and immediately the Fan started working. I knew then that my problem was the fan switch the screws into the thermostat housing so I ordered a new one and replaced it and I still got the same result. I don’t think the Fan would’ve kicked on if the engine was on fire. After that I searched on eBay and found the small thermostat switch that is normally open but closest when the temperature reaches 122°F. I simply grounded One side of the switch to a bolt on the valve cover and then plug the other end into the wire that I took off of the thermostat sensor. Now it works great, take my car out on a hot day and I Park it and my cooling fans come on every time. I’ve attached a picture of the small sensor Showing the way I attached it. You can find these on eBay for a couple of bucks, just make sure that you get one that’s normally open, and is the correct temperature that you’re seeking. The 122°F as work great for me. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hi Kutukutu1, I came across a list I made last year when I replaced my EFI connectors. It is probably too late to be any benifit to you, but maybe someone else reading this later well fing it usefull. Ill post it in the Technical documents later. Bosch EFI Connectors (EuroDat 2016).pdf

A lot of stuff is still available. You need to stop thinking Datsun and look for Bosch components. For the TPS 3-pin plug google "Bosch Connector Plug Kit 1237000039". Should be able to find it for $10. I found a supplier her for €9.95. The 7-pin is available via Motorsports. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17b17/11-3050 Or Bosch LK-7 connector for the 3 Channel Ignition Module https://milspecwiring.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=592 Thermotime & temp sensor: I tried the temp sensor cable kit like from Banzai (I purchased it through my Nissan dealer last year P/N: 24079-U8700), but not happy with it. Very hard to remove the connector once you push it on. Replaced them with the press release variety from e-bay.makes it a lot easier for testing. Cheers

I totally understand this one. The ONLY time that my Z has been damaged is when I was PARKED and NOT even in the car!!! The first week I owned my Z, An old man with a van (no rear windows) and a towball that stuck out over 12" from his bumper, backed into my front bumper, hitting it dead center and splitting the bumper in the middle. That's why I now have 2 corner bumpers instead of a full bumper in front. one year after that, in the SAME DAMN PARKING LOT!!!, A drunk in a HUGE 4X4 truck, backed over my Z's hood with his tow hitch (no ball, just the square hitch part) the pics are in my gallory and some of you probably remember me ranting and bitching about it. He dented the hell out of the hood, indented my radiator under the hood and drove away before any one could get his licence. At least the guy in the van came back and paid for a new bumper, even though I reused what I had. I talk on the phone while driving but I used the speaker phone feature so I can keep BOTH hands and eyes on the wheel. Dave.

Who is Dr. Phil?