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wal280z

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Everything posted by wal280z

  1. Not mine, but might be better than what you have, and appears to be better than @GGRIII https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/pts/d/philomont-280z-hood/6881131121.html
  2. One thing I have learned - I found a Snap-On dealer stopped at a local garage. He has what you need. 10/12mm flare nut wrench. Best investment you will make dealing with these connections. Not sure what they are priced at now, but it was a hard bite at $12 for a single wrench when I bought mine. Has paid for itself many times over by NOT rounding off the nut on countless brake lines....
  3. Got to agree with Greg @gwri8, even if this was not his thought pattern - Nissan is the OEM parts supplier -- Z Car Source and the other vendors, purchase from Nissan, and will sell Greg a set of fusible links, as well as Jon, Jane, and ... They will order a set of 10 to re-stock, (hopefully) ensuring the 'demand'. Once the demand decreases (and Nissan no longer stocks this part) the price goes up. Of course, this just my $0.02 that isn't worth a penny...
  4. Thank you - I have been blessed by your skillful review and I'm confident we are at the end of the revisions. I'm pretty sure you'd sleep better at ZCon... LOL.... Seriously, a huge thank you to you and Chas for being so patient with me with this revision. A special kudo's goes out to @EuroDat for starting the recent fusible link thread to confirm what was already suspected. I also wish to thank all of the private messages I have received regarding this diagram. I appreciate and am also humbled by all the kind words regarding this diagram.
  5. Now that all the (known) issues have been addressed and edited, I have updated Revision N to the download section. Changes to Revision N 1) Fixed wire colors going to oil pressure sender and tachometer resistor. 2) Changed fusible link positions to reflect correct positions on vehicle. 3) Changed internal picture of alternator. N77ZCAR-WIRING.pdf
  6. Yes, indeed. I (wrongly) *thought* that you were looking at the table, and either was dyslexic or typed in the information you saw backwards. Until I opened the fiche, zoomed into that feature to 150%, it became clear to me at that point that there were 3 key #5 and one key 6 in the picture. With all the information discussed earlier, we can safely assume that the key numbers shown in the picture area are backwards. I apologize for responding that way, it was uncalled for, as well as inappropriate to add in this discussion.
  7. @Zed Head I think that you are TOO focused on minutiae. You can see the forest from the trees, I hope. As the pictorial diagram you re-posted, yes, Key 5 and Key 6 are the fusible links. Key 6 shows THREE 0.3 fusible links and Key 5 shows ONE 1.25 fusible link. My post #59 was to show that the factory diagrams AND fiche MATCH the MISTAKE of placement of the fusible links.
  8. Maybe you need to see a doctor... or optometrist... Key 6 = 3, Key 5 = 1 I understand mixing things up, I do it all the time....
  9. Not to beat a dead horse, but I got a hair up my asre'y and decided to look up what Nissan published in the fiche... Same error of misplacement on the location of the fusible links... Maybe Nissan had it right (in the design), and the (unknown) manufacturer of the wiring harness had a oops moment.... for all of the whole production year(s).... how DEEP shall we DIG.....
  10. The brown fusible links were replaced by 30A Maxi-fuses. Why? Fusible link "D" has the most draw on the right-hand side of the fuse-block inside the cabin. It hasn't blown. I didn't want to start high and end up melting the inside fuse-block. The alternator output is at an 80A maxi-fuse. My memory is going to the crapper and that crapper is flushed multiple times a day, but, if I recall correctly, I found a internally regulated 65A alternator from a early 80's Maxima in the junkyard. There's a 60A Maxi-fuse, and there's an 80A Maxi-fuse. Which would you choose?
  11. I was thinking I was an isolated nut case..... I'm not the only one that does that!!!
  12. Call it what you want.... I've got 2 (well, one now since I used a slot for my headlight relay feed) spare +12V fused feeds that I don't have to tap off the battery. No gremlins and no maintenance. Nothing about this screams 'bling'.
  13. @Captain Obvious Bruce, I can't read minds, nor do I wish to, that's just a 'B' grade Sci-fi movie mixed with an episode of the Twilight Zone... NO THANKS.... I do know that for the 1978 model year, that the wiring harness changed with an internally regulated alternator as well as changes in where the fuel injection relays. That said, post #12 I posted a snip from the 1978 diagram. Given our off-line conversation regarding the actual location of said fusible links in the 1977, can we assume that the carry-over of the mis-placement in the 1977 diagram to the 1978 diagram? Seem logical. It's happened before. That said, I don't have a 1978 harness to trace or verify the placement of said links.
  14. wal280z

    Horn relay

    @Zed Head THIS post, was for @7tooZ dilemma on his '71 270. I cannot comment on @saridout 's diagram as I have not studied it nor do I have a 1976 to compare it to. That said, although I did not scan the cover to PROVE it was a 1976 diagram, I assure you and others that it was from a 1976 FSM. As shown in the other active thread, @SteveJ posted a diagram from Xemon's site, to be from a 1977. It is, in fact, NOT. I'm not blaming SteveJ, nor am I pointing fingers at Xenon.... i do understand that, with an overload of information, files may have been saved in folders/files due to whatever factors were involved. This is just a small part of MISINFORMATION..... I mean, the internet doesn't lie, right? I apologize for not answering your question directly, now, back to 7tooZ's thread....
  15. wal280z

    Horn relay

    I realize you spent some money for that diagram, but have you checked the download section lately? @EuroDat produced some very nice color diagrams for the 240's and may help.
  16. Version 1.0.0

    79 downloads

    600dpi (overlapping) scan of the fold-out wiring diagram from a 1976 280Z FSM Scan size limited due to permissions of the loaner FSM (do not separate diagram from FSM) Credit for loan of the FSM to scan diagram: Barry from East Coast Z, Chesapeake VA

    Free

  17. Chas & others, Here are snips from the 1975 & 1976 diagrams. 1976 snip 1975 appears to only have 2 fusible links (besides any EFI fusible links) 1976 FSM Wiring Diagram has been uploaded to the download section. Thanks to Chas & Capt Obvious for the discussion for me to find these files! Wayne
  18. Version 1.0.0

    27 downloads

    400 dpi scan of the fold-out wiring diagram from a 1977 280Z FSM

    Free

  19. Yes, but the OP has a 1978. Use of this diagram for your car may help, but it also may have you chase circuits that were modified for the 1978 model. Just saying. Each one of the 280 models had their own unique diagram, specific to THAT YEAR OF PRODUCTION. That being said, there may be some overlap between the end of model year and beginning of model years. @Av8ferg & @siteunseen, thank you very much for the kudo's. Hard to believe that diagram is coming up on it's 15 year anniversary... Where did all the time go? Wayne
  20. @SteveJ - just to be clear - it appears as though someone may have mixed up files for that site. This snip appears to be for a 1978 model, when Nissan relocated the EFI Relay from inside the cabin (75-77) to the engine compartment (78-beyond to ??) I have uploaded the scan of the diagram from the back of my 1977 FSM that I used to create the colored version. It is now in the download section.
  21. I get updates at least once a week for "new" Datsuns entering a network of junkyards (row52.com) Last S30 update was back in January... They are getting scarce... If this was local, it would be crushed by now
  22. Well, I just went to my garage and took a picture of my ID plate, and honestly, $57+shipping is cheaper than trying to re-create the wheel. I think Zeddsaver nailed it.
  23. This just reinforces the conversation @Patcon and I were having.... I guess I'm on the downhill side of the bell-curve...
  24. Have you checked your previous posts? Lots of project cars posted, although most are ZX...... but, it will get you feet wet. Baby steps. My suggestion would be to look towards more modern cars (that are still being junked, cheap). 12 years ago I bough a rolling heap of scrap metal that I was able to dissect all the pieces and parts off it and that cost me $400. In today's dollars (by demand) that would be a $2K parts car. In 2004 I bought my 2nd Z for $3k - I wouldn't sell it for a penny less than $50K. Is it worth $50K? Nope. But that is what it will cost me to sign the title over to you today. Tomorrow's another story. Prices will continue to rise. Parts will still be NLA.
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