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BRE-240Z

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About BRE-240Z

  • Rank
    Z Pilot

Contact

  • Map Location
    Asheville, NC
  • Occupation
    Systems Administrator

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    904 (white) with a blue interior. L24, 5 Speed, 15" Konig Rewinds (graphite). SU's with TWM velocity stacks and K&N filters. Pertronix ignition. Tokico springs and HP 'blue' shocks.

    PowerSlot rotors, Brembo drums, braided stainless lines, Hawk HPS pads and new Nissan shoes.

    Suspension Techniques sway bars, Cusco strut tower bars (front and rear).

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  • Website
    http://71z.blogspot.com/

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  1. I am looking for a throttle rod for my S30 (part of the throttle linkage, I'm looking for the bit that goes through the firewall from the throttle pedal). The one on my 71 broke and seems to be beyond repair. Does anyone have one lying around that they could part with? In this pic, it's the piece with the boot on it.
  2. I'm using Hawk HP's (with PowerSlot rotors and stock calipers) and like them.
  3. You can find them at MSA, but the ones that I have seen are too long (stick up way too far) and don't look right.
  4. We've been down this road before. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31640
  5. I'll be adding a spook, but this is how my Z looks right now.....
  6. I agree. Those would make great desktop wallpapers, if a high-res version was available somewhere.
  7. Hi Paul, Those brake drums look new. Or have they just been painted? Anyway, it could be that the drums are rubbing on the backing plates, or on the shoes themselves. I had that problem when I first got my car back on the road. And that problem definitely manifested itself in the exact way that you're describing. Take a hard left, you'd only get the noise from the left wheel. Then it was both wheels, with a lighter scraping noise, and then you'd take a hard right and you'd only get the noise from the right wheel. Keep us posted. Brian
  8. The labels are on mine, too. Install 'em and enjoy.
  9. Okay, I just have to say....that's the hardest I've laughed all day. I actually think this car could be interesting if it were cleaned up and in decent shape, but this seems to be a very poor example.
  10. I emailed the seller, last week, right after the auction was first posted -- and told him that I thought that the car was a 260Z. I asked him if the VIN that's stamped on the firewall matched the door plate, and was told that the seller was 'not an expert' and that he apparently wasn't interested in identifying it further. My guess....it's an early 260Z with VIN plates from a 240Z.
  11. Carl gives good advice, as always....but to be fair, Rob said that he wants to preserve it as a family heirloom. In which case, you probably should get a pressure washer pointed at the car and clean it up. Pull the interior, evaluate any rust areas, and then get started on getting the car running. You'll want to replace all fluids (there are plenty of posts on this site that will walk you through draining the tank and getting the car started again). At that point, you can decide what you want to do with the car and how much expense is going to be involved. Do you want to get the car pretty, or do you just want to drive it? Those are the sort of questions you'll be asking yourself. Assuming that you want to do an involved refresh, you will probably want to pull the engine and strip the car down for a repaint. New interior, new seals and bushings, upgrade the brakes and safety systems, rebuild the motor...do those things, and that car will last you a long, long time. It will be expensive, but it may be worth it to you. Keep track of what you're spending, do as much as you can yourself, and don't lose patience.
  12. Actually, Daimler spun Chrysler off to Cerberus, which is some kind of New York financial consortium. There was a lot of discussion in the trades that instead of Chrysler's quality going up due to the Daimler influence, the reverse was happening. I don't know if that's true, but Daimler definitely ended the experiment and took a bath for their trouble.
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