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Definitely try to press or tap it out. Maybe you'll get lucky and have it come loose pretty easy. I've made my mounts out of aluminum. Stainless would certainly be stronger and would probably hold a polish longer, but the aluminum is so much easier to work with and it polishes up nice enough for me. Here's an aluminum part before polishing. Stock plastic on top and my version on the bottom with surfaces as machined: And here's a part after a little polishing. As good if not better than the original:

Being helpful also, I always do a quick google search for questions or images I'm needing answers for. Just remember to always put "classiczcars.com" at the end of you inquiry. https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=Oj14XNKTMuiOggeV2KGoBw&q=heat+and+cooling+hoses+240z+classiczcars.com&oq=&gs_l=mobile-gws-wiz-hp.1.0.41l5.0.0..4775...0.0..0.0.0.......0...........5.4xnS33twXto

Just a suggestion, please don't take it the wrong way--- You might condense your questions to one thread on your car project. People are following your efforts and are responding frequently with helpful information. The use of a new topic for each post or question isn't needed. You currently have 4 separate posts on the front page for what is essentially one project. It will be more coherent because people can read previous posts in the thread on your project and develop a more thorough understanding of the issues you face, as many times the issues are related in nature. As in the question above---I don't know from the reading of it which model/year car you are seeking information, and they are/can be different. In a dedicated thread you would only have to say it once. The FSM has clear diagrams and photos. There is an on-line version which can be downloaded from this site. I prefer hardcopy, as I am "old school" and like turning pages and bookmarking. I am saying this only to be helpful---not to scold or admonish.

Did ya get dizzy?

Sorry. It was over the $5k range.

This is for anyone interested. I'm in process of getting both doors working ship-shape, and I learned yesterday that putting washers between the door and the lower bolt of the front window guide rail (the metal piece that the big plastic slider on the window glass holder rides in) does wonders to realign the window. I was having just about every problem possible; window was cocking forward as it rolled up, window would stick on a roller and jolt as it moved up or down, window would just flat out jam in mid-travel, window would be angled way out and miss the chrome door sash completely, the works. By experimenting with different groups of washers placed between that front guide rail and the door sheet metal and then threading in the lower rail bolt, I was able to fix every one of the problems. Tightened up the regulator slop, put the window at the proper angle so it slides cleanly into the chrome sash, and somehow it even leveled out the window almost perfectly so it guides itself perfectly against the seal and seats firmly without the slightest fight. I ended up with three washers total, I'd guess about 3/16" worth of material. Pain in the arse to slide them in place, but it really did the trick. I don't know if this means the old regulator assembly is just old and loose, or if the plastic sliders are worn, or whatever else. Just know it worked, so if you're having problems with the window motion give it a shot.

I am one of the many Z owners, with SUs, that has battled a lean condition on hard acceleration, or WOT. My idle and cruise AFR readings (have AFM attached to header) are great at 14.5 or so, so have adjusted it as best as i could. Along with SM needles, I adjusted fuel levels and tried to do anything I could think of to resolve this issue, to no avail. I even switched to triple Webers, which allowed me to see how my car could really perform with appropriate AFR! I decided to switch back to SUs, as I had some linkage sticking and fuel dripping that bugged me. So, I started looking into the different available SU needles to see if I could find something richer. I looked at various charts and saw that the SB needle had the same configuration at the top two levels (so idle is the same), and was slightly richer heading down the needle. I thought, let's give it a shot! I could not find anyone locally that provides SB needles, so I went down under to Australia and ordered a set of SB needles from Competition Products for about $40 delivered (less than 2 weeks for delivery). I was stunned at the improvement! My idle and cruise AFR remained around 14.5, but my lean (16 to 17+ AFR) condition at WOT was gone, now hitting around 13.5 AFR!! That is ideal! I cannot believe the difference. My L28 was rebuilt with flat top pistons years ago, but outside of that, there is nothing else outside of the norm. I would strongly recommend this solution to those with similar issues! I strongly urge you to make sure your fuel level (and flow) is appropriate before you go this route, as that can resolve many of the lean issues.

Make sense. I posted in different topics trying to keep specific topics to a forum. For myself, I like the idea of one thread. I’ll go back to that method. Thank you.

You might as well replace the seals 'while you're at it" Big thanks to @Chickenman for the p/ns. Read a bit further, Chickenman posted in another thread the only part still available from nissan was the seal below. I remember now, seems like i used a 10mm deep socket to push it down.

@Zup Wow, that kit is impressive to see. Those filters are probably worth their weight in gold or more. @jayhawk will bring these filters by on Saturday and we will check them out. The collar is a bit long and it is not 'crushable' but we will check the fit.

The cereal box cardboard doesn't break down in oil. I've never had one fail and I've made quite a few gaskets over the years.

HLS30-00004 & 5 Did not have badges. The Hubcaps did not have D.

I often drive the same route as the 69 Datsun crew through the Canadian Rockies! You can have snow any month of the year so you have to be prepared! (and my 370Z is de-badged) and yes, I will be taking the classic Z through there too!

It could also be the 2 main spindles that the wiper arms attach to, there is no means of lubricating them without removing the wiper arms, the cowl panel, disconnecting the linkage at the motor to see how stiff the movement is. Since you have to go that far to test the motor anyway you can test both at the same time, but then after 47 yrs you should probably pull both out for some maintenance. Many members have found that those spindles caked with dust and rust are the real cause of slow or seized wipers.

Test if there's voltage of about 12v on the motor. You probebly need some new brushes in your motor... a possibility..... after 47 years? ?

I would start with eliminating the wiper motor, disconnect it and apply power to it and see if it works. Alternatively hook a multi meter up to the disconnected wiring harness and see what voltage is reading at the terminals when you turn the wiper switch on. Check your Haynes manual for polarity color coding on the wires. Chris

More flattops. Supposedly rebuilt could be good for needed parts? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202607383454 Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

A nonpareil knob there Capt'n! Regarding the HMB46W (flat top) fuel filters: In post #265 Rich said They do/did exist and are/were in the rebuild kit. Nissan Part No. 16010-N3302 Hitachi Kit No. AJ52-1904 A complete rebuild kit for both front and rear carbs. This is the only one I have found and I feel extremely fortunate to have it. Probably not many of these around now, but you west coast guys may have better luck finding a source out there in the "Land O' Plenty". There may be some in Australia and New Zealand, as the 260z was sold there for many more years than in the USA. At least now you have the part numbers to assist in your efforts to find them. Good Luck!

That's just a parts washer and actually the parts didn't come out of it much different then they went in. It took all the oil and grease off but not the red paint or the oxidized finish. I had to sandblast the cases with a fine sand then wire brush and steel wool them to get that finish. As I understand it the '69 crank had a vibration at 6000rpm and above. And I think that's why there is that reinforcement on the early oil pans. The vibration was possibly cracking the pans. Not sure, just some stuff I've read.

Thanks Dr Dave!

Naaa. Too long. You can find something shorter, can't you? Something from a not DOHC head?

I've not had good luck getting the plastic chromed mount out. I had one original knob where the glue joint failed and that one was easy, but if you can't simply knock it out easy, then I don't have any suggestions. I've not been able to salvage both the plastic and the wood on the knobs and one or the other had to be sacrificed to save the other. Here's one where I saved the plastic: Sorry... That's all I got.

Cheaper AND some adjustment features. Nice!

That 2X speed is really unnerving. Sounds great though! Sounds angry! I suspect your Z is like most of the other 280Z's out there with a multitude of little issues that add up until it becomes a big enough of an issue to cause a problem. Things like dirty/worn/damaged/broken electrical connectors, vacuum leaks, previous owner's modifications, etc. And most of the electrical connection issues can be intermittent and come back at the most inopportune time. All that wiggling you did to the wires leading to the thermostat housing... None of that wiggling should have any effect. And if there IS an effect, you have questionable connections that need to be addressed. There should be no effect caused by wiggling anything going to the thermostat housing, the AFM, any of the injectors, or the fusible links. Here's hoping you put a nail in it, but just remember... If you have time to work on the car, clean or replace some connectors.

Thanks for the tip. That will be pretty easy to splice in, so I will order one.

O'Reilly's has low pressure fuel hose pretty cheap. That's who had the 5/8" for the top 180 vent hose I used.

Bottomless bagless Hoover

I took them to Mr Krafts spa and had them professionally blown.

So nice and shiny. I do like the color.

Blew the dust off both cars! 75 degrees out today and sunny. WhupWhup Whuuuuuu! Back on my Z fix. Relapsed damn it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Choro-Q-TAKARA-TOMY-NISSAN-FAIRLADY-Z-Limited-15-Set-HS130-HLS30-240Z-F-S/303036340889?epid=1977125165&hash=item468e5f9a99:g:nNUAAOSwqoxcFwfH:rk:1:pf:0

I have a completely refurbished trouble light. $150 If interested please contact ron @zclocks.com Thanks..... Ron

Beautiful work. It's so fun to be putting together clean shiny parts! Didn't want to clutter up that other thread, but thought you might like a pic of the last shift knob I made:

STOP!!! That long straight pipe will DRONE like hell. You will need a glass pack in the middle to break up the resonance. Reference: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/exhaust/index.html

Some pics of the engine going together

A much needed cut and buff action. Getting ready for the first car show of the year.

I am running an electrical and a Nikki mechanical fuel pump on my Yellow 1971 Z. I have the electrical on a switch and typically just use it for when I start the car, otherwise I run it on just the mechanical. I use the electrical because I park my Z on a hill and don't drive it very often. Takes forever for the mechanical to get the gas into the carbs when the car sits for so long. With the electrical, I flip the switch, wait a couple seconds, then start the car. Works like a charm.

We came upon a well preserved part that we took to a local paint supplier and had them match the color. We ended up with a quart can (from which we've done probably 5 blocks over the years and still have more than half) and eventually a couple of spray cans they made using that formula. We discovered that it's much easier to brush on than spray the block itself... Easier to spray the brackets and pulleys. We also learned from the 1975 Museum car we had in the shop that if you're going for authentic factory look when spraying, you have to overspray the bottom of the head about an inch or so...

Before this thread gets nasty. The op posted photo's of a set of 280Z quarters. They are quarters for a 280Z or am I missing something. No recess or indentation for the 240Z bumpers. The 240Z quarter recess around the bumpers could be transplanted to these. The section around the bumpers is generally less rust prone, I beleive.

HUZZAH! Good for you man! Way to work through an issue!

Problem is GONE. To confirm: it was in the carburetor butterfly axles ( to much drag/wear ). Pedal feels so smooth now, it's even to sensitive !

you could try wiring just one return spring for an experiment

I don't see the difference. The sender is a simple device that varies resistance with oil pressure. If the sender indicates no oil pressure it's likely a bad sender but could also mean there's truly no oil pressure. Assuming the sender is working and is accurate (which they're not) you would be able to calculate the oil pressure just using a multimeter on the sender if you know the proper formula. After all, that's what the oil pressure gauge is doing with the same input.

BTF/PTM: Thanks for the tip. I needed to adjust both window regulators and reglue loose felt channels in both window sashes over the last three days on my 1971 240Z and the passenger side window had all of the mis-alignment, jolting and jam issues that you described even after readjusting the front and bottom guide rails. I inserted a 3/16" thick nut (much easer than using three 1/16" washers) at the lower bolt of the front guide rail between the guide rail and the door and, presto, everything was realigned perfectly. I added a 1/16" thick washer on the inside face of the door on the upper bolt for the front guide rail to eliminate the jolting. The window nows goes up and down very smoothly. What you did not mention is that you need to substitute 1/4" longer bolts to accomodate the spacers. To everyone else who is having similar problems I highly recommend BTF/PTM's solution!