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So here we are after just one week, the car is being stripped to bare metal and the old bondo will be removed. I think his wheel chocks are clever, they allow him to have complete access and easily maneuver the car around his shop.

Kathy can always tell when I'm watching track videos. I'm in my chair, leaning into the corners, head forward under braking and head back while accelerating, oblivious to everything around me. I've got to go back and watch that one again. Ten full minutes in the zone. I love it.

It didn’t taste like lead...

Dude - I swear on the Bible I have never been to Seattle or helped you in person.... oh wait, you must be talking about someone else... ?

Nissan does still show them available 38225-N3100 Side Gear Circlip $2.54 each. Finding the old ones or pieces thereof might be more of a challenge. The clips are the same for all the R180's

A chain tensioner is adjustable manually . Don’t tight too much , no chain noise isn’t good , some noise is good for the chain. I tried to display the electrical ignition system , but I didn’t want to open the plastic bag because I have got the used complete set from the seller of the spare engine. Note : S20 comes with Mitsubishi components such as a starter/ an alternator/ a distributor/ a voltage regulator / a transistor ignitor. Kats

Hi , my No.2 S20 Engine is confirmed for its good condition. I couldn’t stop myself doing this , taking a picture of the S20 gears location. I guess Alan would took same photo when he was rebuilding his S20 . People would always ended up doing this ! Note : the two chains are original , it has old type shape. We say it is Hyotan shape . Nissan provides still now but they are oval shape. Although in the illustration , the chain looks oval type. Kats

I don't know what it is called either but it is basically spring ring that holds the shafts in the diff. That spring ring might have worn to the point that it is not holding as well as it should or it might have cracked in two and fallen to the bottom. Those spring rings are still available from Nissan, at least they were two yrs ago, I would pull both halfshafts and investigate and replace both rings.

Bluejon you remember the 263Z very well. It is still roadworthy and I acquired it in 2018. It now lives in my garage in SW Washington. I had been the second highest bidder when it sold on eBay in 2002. After flirting with a purchase on two other occasions we finally did a deal last year. It has the dual carbs and I sent a note off to the who fabricated the triple carb manifold earlier today - I'm hoping he still has them. Bill

Well, even though my 280Z is still in restoration mode, I went and bought a little red beauty to add to the stable!

https://glassfinders.com/ If they don't have it, they will find it, or they will make it.

You can feel them with your finger nail. I have got the lite ones out with polish but the deep ones, buy the time you get them out it distorts the glass enough so you can see it when you look at it and through it.

Many thanks.. I remember following that thread, don't know why i didn't access it earlier. I'm going to get started after I help the kid with her homework. Sunday is my Saturday.

Over time the half shafts can seem to have less range of motion due to the packing of the grease in the shafts. I documented the disassembly and the myth busting of various sized half shafts. They are all the same. Take them apart, clean them and reassemble. Very straightforward.

I'm trying to pick up myself. What you didn't see was the one behind me. Not as good shape but still a decent car. This one is an automatic early Gen. The current owner owns the Nissan dealer in the area. The car has been stitting in the backlot for about 10 years from what I understand. A friend of mine knows the General Manager, so I am woking through it. Its probably going to b a long process, with much persistence on my part.

No they don't. Stub your toe on this, it's going to hurt a lot more than some spindly wood coffee table leg. Anyways, forum mates, I have a block in really good shape and I figgure this is the place where it should be sold.

This is quite possible. At the time of removing and replacing the half-shafts, I recall marking a "D" and "P" to distinguish between driver and passenger side, which still exist to this day. However, that doesn't mean that they didn't get mixed up before I marked them. I have a beer drinking buffoon of a friend who was present that day. Although I wont rule out the possibility that I just spaced out and installed the wrong side half-shaft. Just to recap the current configuration: I now have the original half shafts installed in their original position. The half shafts that I installed a last summer are on the workbench, and are the same length. The original half-shaft "telescopes" or extends further than the newer half-shaft, the one i pulled out last night. Maybe the half shafts i used to replace the original ones were the same length, and wrong in the first place, in other words, two left side shafts. This all makes quite a bit more sense now, as I look at the spare differential on the floor. I can see how the casing is not asymmetrical requiring one shaft to be longer than the other. Just to be specific, I'm talking about the half-shaft, not the spline/axle that should require a great amount of force to remove.

A common trouble of the tensioner , as the bolt pushes the the collar, a plastic bush inside of the collar gradually collapsed, finally the gear scratches the collar, then break it . My spare engine’s tensioner has slightly worn out , so I will replace it with a NOS one . And the chain guide which is located between the camshafts , there is also a common trouble of cracking at the both sides of the ends . As the chain goes to be flexible, bounces on the guide , it makes the guide stressful. Courtesy Mr.Watanabe ( owner of PS30-00063 ) for the pictures which show a damage for each parts. Kats

The pistons, I found a cool thing , original pistons are numbered on top face , from 1 to 6 . On the other hand, a new piston which I have is supplied from Nissan is not stamped on it . Cylinder liners are NOS . The original pistons are very nice . But I am wondering can I put original pistons into the each corresponding cylinder even if I use a set of new cylinder liners? Kats Kats

I think that it's called a "circlip". Circular clip. If you didn't seat the clip in the groove the last time that you installed the half-shafts (that's what we tend to call the u-joint "drive " shafts [which is what Nissan called them back then] then the axle might have been loose and worked it's way out. Or, as grannyknot said maybe it's just worn out. Usually it takes some serious effort to remove the axle from its clip. I use an oiled chisel face myself to wedge it out. They should be very tight. The clip is in the diff.

Put most of the front suspension in, except for the sway bar bushings. Also put in some of the other attaching hardware. Here are some pics. Pics look a little better with the natural light. May try and get the rear suspension in tomorrow.

"..... so, what did you do today? Oh, nothing much ... ran a few laps around the Nurburgring with a few pals ......" Amazing video, thanks for sharing it!

McMasterCarr.com has a poop load of springs. I've used an inner valve spring on my 4 door, it's close, but actually not stiff enough.

I got caught up watching the angle of the key flow. Had to watch a second time breathing hard by the time he was done. 72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

The skillard piece is unimpressive at best, and isn't suitable for anyone looking to replicate the factory piece. It's also the wrong thickness (18 gauge) and at $120 not exactly cheap for what ultimately amounts to three flat pieces cut into shape, and a single piece with a simple bend. MSA should come out with the piece that the battery tray sits on as well.

I think he actually hit the rev limiter. I heard that too. I was worried there for a minute when he came up on that bike on the left in the turn. That could have been ugly if the bike hadnt seen him. If that is the right driver with 4000 laps, it shows. Very confidant approaching turns and taking the line. I forgot to mention he ran down like 5 bikes. It's not easy to run down a bike unless they're not trying.

You're in luck. Most other items gone but have the complete system with ECU and harness. I'll pm you... Tom

$35 for 10 minutes...cheaper than a trip to the casino and more fun. Dennis

Shout out to the AMG that kept up, too.

That's some nice driving!. I have seen those at the track. They are just stupid fast, since they are so light. The power to weight ratio is way better than most anything out there.

He's walking around some fast cars: a couple of M3's, Z06, 944 turbo, 911's at least one turbo, STi. Would be fun to have seen a speedo heads up for perspective

Hope they still sell the Bridgestone 175/80 14 there. I found them in Australia in searches last fall, but now only UK dealers are showing up in my searches for those Bridgestones. If you cannot find those tires there, send me a PM and I'll find the eBay UK link I used. When I bought my Z, the dealer gave me a $10 credit for each of the original hubcaps. He was a new owner of the dealership, and later found out he already had an attic full of those 240Z hubcaps. I wonder if that attic is still full.... (but I still like the slotted "mag" wheels better!) Good luck!

It's my understanding that if you use the 1980 N47 head with the '82 F 54 block(with flat tops) you get somewhere around 10:1 compression ratio. Perhaps someone will correct me, as I've been meaning to ask about that for some time, and I'll learn something from this thread too. I'm putting some of the finishing touches on an '82 F54/P79 build. It's my first one. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

Their seats don’t come with brackets/sliders, but you can shop google or ebay for sources. Wedge is a common brand: http://wedgebrackets.com/nissan-240-z-69-74-seat-brackets.html

The Mrs got me this old quart of Pennzoil 10W40 for Christmas. Anyone have any idea what Z-7 is? Maybe this is from the glory days of catless cars and the Z is for zinc? I use Valvoline's high zinc racing oil in the Z. Perhaps this is where it came from. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

I'm thinking of going to Rotella T4 and it seems I read you are using that. Would you reccomend? I've read until my eyes bled and think that for a street car that to be the best bang for the buck. Thanks for any advice. Cliff

Well there it is. I even looked through bobistheoilguy but somehow missed that. You're right, it's not as big as I thought it would be. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

I have 205/60/15s on my 240 and riding next to a friend talking to each other on the phone, my speedo was very close to his at 70mph. Maybe 1 or 2 mphs either way. Less than 5 for sure. They are Hankooks from discounttiredirect.com, $65 each. I really like them.

You don't have to measure your tires per se. You just have to get the sizes off the sidewalls. (Note, that it has been pointed out in a different thread on this board that the wheel diameter can vary even with the "same" tire size.) Assuming that we're starting with a stock 175 R14 tire, I used 175/78R14 as the size. (Google is your friend.) You want a 15 inch wheel (There are not many good choices at Tire Rack, but if you don't mind the road noise, Advans are available.). This gives you available tire size (at Tire Rack) for 15 inch wheels: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/sizes/results.jsp?diameter=15