Reptoid Overlords

If it can get through L.A. then I imagine it can get through any city. Maybe It'll cut down on some of the road rage shootings..

The fact that it will not stall out as you increase throttle strikes me as odd. My experience with engines that are running way too rich is that at some point during the throttle range they stall due to too much fuel, but yours is staying at a constant peak RPM until full release back to idle. If the plugs are black(sooty)then there's no denying that it's running rich i guess. I forgot if you mentioned if you have a catalytic converter installed? Or did your car ever have a catalytic converter? I totally forgot when they started putting cats on the Z.

I have had this inline fuel pressure gauge on my car for 3 years. It seems to be functioning as it should https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V583TP7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072M33C5F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have a Glow Shift fuel pressure gauge on my Civic and it works great.

Good stuff! I haven't had a horn since 2017. I've been yelling like a crazy person out the window in lieu of a working horn.

Definitely not the cure for the dash components, but in case your problem is a compound problem, I recently went through a no start when hot problem with my '91 civic. It ended up being that the spade connector to the starter solenoid had vibrated loose enough to make contact when cold, but as heat built up in the engine bay, I guess it would expand enough to not make contact. Or something to that effect. I replaced it with a better spade connector and it fired right up hot or cold. Zed Head, Steve J and others commented on this recent thread where the OP had an intermittent no start situation. Picture of spade connector from that thread:

Sorry for the delay, went out into the mountains for a bit. I can't see how many bids or anything on OfferUp. Months ago I noticed that they implemented a feature which allowed you to see how many people had made offers, or messaged the seller. I can't remember. But after about a week or so, that info was no longer available. Perhaps if you're a premium member it's there. But you're right, that moss or whatever isn't the end of the world to get off. As mentioned, It's not totally original, but it is an early car. Hopefully it ends up in the right hands, but with the experience that DC871F had, sounds like it'll sit in that field for a few more decades.

Yeah surely more than I can handle. My guess is that it's been sitting out in the damp Puget Sound lowland marshes for some time and is hiding even more rust than is seen. My ZX is a local Seattle car and has seen it's fair share of rust repair having only spent time in the city, not the woods.

A rusty '70 for sale Marysville,WA. It was posted 10 hours ago as of writing this. The Craigslist ad does not have a picture attached, but the seller has it listed on OfferUp as well. I understand those not in the continental U.S. can't view links to OfferUp so I saved the pictures and loaded them here. The craigslist ad appears to be the same os the OfferUp ad. https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/d/marysville-1970-datsun-240z/7653825977.html

Hey, do we have any of that Plutonian Nyborg left?

I wonder if Amazon is using AI that generates images and ads based on your internet browsing history. If not yet I'm sure it's not far off. They have it making videos of Elon Musk eating toilets haha.

I think we would say in detergent in American English. In the U.K. and in other post Empire English speaking countries they say Washing Powder. An example is Tide powder detergent.

I like how they've damaged the A/C unit by backing into stuff.

Having spent zero time around turbo Z's, EFI or blow through, I'd like to ask the community to help me identify this Nissan turbo I was given by someone who knows even less about it than me. They told me it was for a Mazda Miata. I didn't mention to them that it says Nissan on it. Maybe someone had it on a Miata at some point? Anyway it has a Hitachi crank sensor that if you do a search seems to come up with a cam position sensor for the RB motors. Also an oil cooler. I appreciate any info and as always, your time and input.

Try my hand at painting a car I don't really care about instead of trying it on my beloved Z haha

Yeah you seem like someone who knows the difference between a turbo car and an injector fan haha. It is my understanding that the Haltech 550 series will run the L28ET. There's a 2 part video of it being installed and run on YouTube. My phone seems to be too antiquated to insert a working link for it, but if you search "280zx L28 TURBO Haltech 550 install" you'll find it. If anything it's good to watch with a nice tall Pilsener in your hand.

I need to find an Autobondsman to get my ZX out of bodywork jail. The donor car for the F54 engine that's currently in my car was being sold on Craigslist many years ago as a Turbo car. It was indeed not a turbo...the seller thought the injector cooler blower was a turbo. It happens.

That's a slick Volvo caddy

I like how they have the audacity to call that a Malibu. I drive a 2019 International medium duty commercial truck for work, and about every 3 months a fuse in the battery box blows. The fix: carry extra fuses and a box wrench. I'll bet you could buy an old Malibu from our beloved Beverly Hills auto club and it would be more reliable haha.

Not today, but last Saturday and Sunday removed the stock single cam 1.6L from my Civic and installed a dual cam 2.0L from a Japanese market CRV with a '90 Acura integra 5 speed. It currently runs I just have to finish up the exhaust. Next weekend maybe.

A little Mac Sabbath wont kill you. Especially with an Elvis impersonator and maybe 6 people in the audience.

I re-read the whole post and realized that my issue was pertaining to the ZX(and 280z I guess), which has the fuel pump located in the fuel tank. Isn't your cars fuel pump bolted to the side of the head? I'm not at all familiar with the carbureted cars. I apologize if I clouded the troubleshooting process.

Yes. I replaced the filler neck. My car is a ZX, not sure if the S30 filler neck is different, This was about 3 years ago. The problem I was having was that when the fuel pump turned on, a check valve located along the evap circuit would begin leaking fuel, then somehow seal itself again after running for a minute. Number 9 in this diagram. Took pictures but I must've deleted them. Most all of the rubber lines were showing signs of advanced ageing. I do not have my carbon canister installed, and I can barely, if ever, really smell fuel.

Time to go Bozo! I replaced all my fuel lines at the tank because I discovered a leak only when the fuel pump would turn on after sitting more than 2 days. It helped the smell quite a bit. I have no carpet in the rear hatch. Just noise.

Here is a discussion from some Porsche guys about running a MSD and the like in tandem with the 123 distributor. I don't think I've read anywhere on here where anyone has tried it on our cars. I don't run it on mine and never really considered it because the 123 has electronic advance. But maybe it would benefit.. https://forums.190slgroup.com/archive/index.php/t-13227.html

Part of my problem with that setup wasn't necessarily that it was a bad deal for pump gas, It's that the I never did mess with reworking the vacuum advance so that it wouldn't advance to stock specs and cause detonation. Later I found that the distributor had developed the typical broken bearing cage problem. I left it alone and eventually bought the 123 distributor since I got the DSI motor. So you could still use flat tops, if you could find them. And you could either mess around with re working the vacuum advance on the distributor or get the 123 distributor. It's spendy, but it lets you tune it how you want it without any guesswork. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/31615-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference/?&page=2#comments Post #33 from Chickenman begins to explain a bit about it.