Reptoid Overlords

Kumho 225/50/R15 on all 4

Years ago the refrigerant in the A/C system of my 1994 Nissan D21 pickup ran out so I deleted the entire system. Regardless of whether or not that was a mistake, the Compressor, condenser, and many of the fittings and lines looked to be very similar in design principles to that which was on my '80 ZX when I deleted it's A/C system. Not sure how much the ZX system has in common with the S30, but it may a start to research.

Yeah I think he and the beers were the ones doing the t-boning.

Wrecked '78. Looks like it just costs a few beers. https://skagit.craigslist.org/cto/d/north-lakewood/7513458044.html

'72 with a siezed motor, maybe a decent body for $4500. Something from a 1960's science fiction movie on top of the 4 bbl carb. https://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/cto/d/seattle-1972-datsun/7512539752.html

Probably just my eyes, but do the timing notch and cam pulley notch seem to be lined up too even? I've always seen it to be that the notch is advanced just a tiny bit. Perhaps it lines up different at the number 2 position somehow?

Or there being junk in the filter out of the box due to Chinesium. I recently replaced the clutch slave on my D21 pickup just to have the new one start leaking after about a month. Took it apart and found shavings from the manufacturing process. I want to say there's a thread about that here too.

You guys aren't too far away from Datsun Spirit. I think they're in Fairfax or Manassas or something? Maybe reach out to those guys and see if they could make some .50 over. At least you could go pick them up yourselves possibly. Prob just as expensive as the others.

I wondered the same thing...I thought maybe the engine is getting tired but he said he's willing to let the buyer ride in the car before it's pulled. He'd probably allow for a compression check I bet. Not a bad price if it's all good. Perhaps he's going V8 or RB or something and wants to change out the body parts too while he's at it?

It looks like there is a bit of differences regarding N/A and turbo cams, at least for aftermarket applications. By the way, I'm a huge fan of the stash

Quite a few decent sounding parts for sale. https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/d/steilacoom-datsun-280z-parts/7492230151.html

I did a stock rebuild on the original N42 engine that was in my '80 ZX( I have since installed another motor). Before I pulled it out of the car, I was running 20W 50 to mask a knock at idle. Upon disassembly I found some main bearings that were pretty thrashed. No big surprise. The PO probably abused it and ran it low on oil. The 20W 50 was very effective in masking that knock, although it hadn't progressed into the out of control stages yet. It doesn't sound like you are having any issues like that, just wanting to know if higher weight oil is ok to use for extra protection in desert heat. All of us on the west coast U.S. have been getting heat waves. Even here in Seattle(as I type this it's 59 and raining).

I heard that spindle pins and gland nuts are among the most dreaded jobs.

Sorry to hear about the dog. We recently went through the same with a 17 year old cat. That's nice you were able to help get another MG sorted out for a few hundred more miles of use haha. Sounds like you have a lucky neighbor.

As far as I know there is now no easy way to get stock 86mm flat tops. If you have some patience, give Oliver at Z Specialties a call. He probably has Conex boxes full of L28's he can go source some from. (425)363-3577

Found a Japanese registration plate and put it on the front bumper. I don't think it's real. I won't run it because it's not a real Japanese market car but it does look a bit more natural than the American state plate that usually sits in its place.

The U.S. market got the F54 block with flat tops in 1981. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/engines.html

Yeah Eiji said it sounds normal too. I appreciate the reassurance. I'll just drive it and enjoy it.

I haven't. But I will email him and see what he says. Before I received the engine back from him I asked what oils he recommended and have been using the Driven dino 10w40 he recommended.

It's a P79 with an oiler cam only, no bar. The last time I checked the valve lash(roughly 1 year ago) I went a bit tight on the adjustments just to see if it made a difference, and it had no discernible effect. I didn't keep those tight settings of course, I reset to spec. Eiji told me that he runs his valve lash at .008 cold for both intake and exhaust. I've run that and the factory spec .008 intake/.010 exhaust cold and the car seems to run better with the latter(factory spec), so I've been running that. Noise remains the same.

I forgot to mention an important point: The engine only sounds like that as it starts to warm up and at operating temperature. When it's cold it does not make that noise. It's otherwise quiet.

I stuck a screwdriver on the valve cover and listened to the rocker arms from the front to the back. The noise is quite a bit more pronounced when listening with my ear at the end of the screwdriver. Which I imagine is to be expected. I guess I'm not entirely clear on how much louder it's supposed to be when doing that. I've tried to watch all the videos I can find on you tube of these engines running. Some sound like this, some louder, and some quieter. Some stock, some built, some with the text in Japanese that i don't understand haha. If I put the end of the screwdriver on the exhaust runners of the header it isn't all that much louder.

A little over 6k miles on a DSI stage 2 engine with FAST EFI, 14.5 mm o-ring type injectors, 123 Distributor, and a not so great exhaust header. Single gasket. Checked valve lash today with engine cold, followed by re-check with engine at operating temp. All in spec. Stage 2 cam with stock rocker arms, all other valvetrain parts installed by Eiji at DSI. Not by me haha. This video is taken with the engine running post valve lash check after about a 30 mile drive. Honestly, It's always sounded like this. Even before I sent it to DSI. It runs great, makes good power, has great compression and has no known issues. It broke in quick, and I don't beat on it too hard. 4k RPM shifts and 3K RPM cruising speed give or take 500RPM. I have a feeling it's probably ok, I just want the community's opinion. I'm thinking it's a combo of normal L28 valve train racket, exhaust leaks, or simply thin steel used in the header, or maybe a little injector noise. I have the stock o2 port plugged with a bolt, and the EGR port plugged with a big bolt as well. I've moved the o2 bung to the collector further downstream. Been considering doubling the gasket on the header. L28a.mp4

An impressive parts car lineup.

Nice. Were the 2 in Ballard? I never got around to looking. Glad someone ended up with them instead of them going to the crusher. Hauling cars around sure is getting expensive at $5.00 plus a gallon around here.