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My condolences re: your EFI woes, especially being forced to deal with it by the municipality. Seems a Kafkaesque nightmare. I did sell my 78 EFI setup, but I have a complete one from a 79 ZX (entire manifold, ECU, TB, etc) that’s been gathering dust under my work bench for several years. Let me know if any bits would be helpful. PS: The SU’s are still performing beautifully...

Hello everyone. My name is Rod Schmitt. I've been working on Z cars for over 30 years. I am the one that did the restoration on the engine in car #187. The owner of that car introduced me to this site when he started to post my work. I like what I see here. I am now doing a complete restoration on car #304 and will be documenting it on this site for everyone. I'd welcome any input as the project goes along. Here's a picture of the car. Will be posting more soon.

Bosch Dishwasher

I would not be able to close the hood and the shaft needs to be straight in order to function correctly. You could perhaps cushion the hood for a quick and safe run on empty road to read the gauge from the car. I could clearly see the readings from the drivers seat but I wouldn't recommend it. I do have a unisync and could definitely try reading flow on that at 3000 rpms later today. I will report back.

I don't know if you guys are Simpsons fans, but there's an episode where a doctor tells Mr. Burns he's alive because all of his ailments are fighting each other and staying in balance. I think back on things done by POs that I've fixed in the past (throttle position switch, missing thermostat, bad coolant temp sensor) and it reminds me of that scene. Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

And that color scheme... Deep blue with a wide white stripe? Makes me ill. Who would do that to a Z???

So great news! I took the plugs out and put some Marvel Mystery Oil in there. Let it sit for a day or so and added a bit more. Took the old belt off and was able to turn the crank by hand after a couple of seconds. The motor turns over very smoothly. I have decided to just go ahead and replace everything associated with liquid (water and fuel hoses, lines etc). Now just have to wait for a whole bunch of parts to come in (belt, hoses, fuel lines, filter, vacuum lines, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, etc etc). Dropping the fuel tank and pulling the radiator today to have them cleaned out next week at a local radiator shop. Hopefully get the carbs cleaned up next week as well. Maybe in a couple of weeks I may can see if she'll fire up on her on.......maybe. FYI - Interior that has been sitting for 25 years has an unusual funk smell to it.

My wife is VERY tolerant but I believe that wouldn't work out too well for me!!!! But honey, it was dirty...

I walk by one every day in my kitchen.

Oh I'm still on top of the world here. It's always nice to get a great deal. It's like a new girl friend, but without the drama, and my wife approves. ?

...and I am embarrassed to note this is a Canadian car...

Figure out why about what? Why the cold start put out a lot more fuel than the individual cylinder injectors? Because it's designed that way. Seems completely normal to me. I still think the obvious explanation is that you are flooding your engine by trying to start an engine that was working properly when there was a significant bypass around the throttle plate (the AAR). You removed that bypass and didn't add extra air from somewhere else, but you kept the fuel the same. Did you try holding the gas pedal down a little bit while you cranked the engine? That might not be it, but it's so simple to try!

I agree the right place at the right time. Thank you

Don't you try to at least press the gas pedal to give it some air when starting after a few seconds of cranking and no taking?

The only time the BCDD does anything to decrease emissions (reduce HC) is when you are coasting and have a high intake manifold vacuum. So unless they measure the HC while they are decelerating driving the car, or blipping the throttle and seeing what the HC's do while the RPM's are coming back down to idle, then the BCDD won't make any difference to your emissions test. Under steady state conditions like idle or 30mph steady cruise, the BCDD doesn't do anything and has absolutely no effect on performance or emissions or anything at all. Under steady state conditions, it's just a closed valve. However... Don't get me wrong. I'm a tree hugger at heart and am glad to hear that you are proceeding with a plan that keeps your BCDD intact. Just clearing up some of the technicalities about the operation. Oh, and Wayne is the man.

Looks like I have one coming, already! I thought it was going to be harder to find. Our good friend Wayne (wal280z) is shipping one out to me for just postage! Will post results and may even, time permitted, open up the entire non working bcdd to see what I can find. And just for fun. There is another thread on it but I want to open mine up to compare.

This will increase Hydro Carbons and you could possibly fail emissions. The block off plate does the same thing with one other mod. Really simple. But I did this so I could still drive it. If I were testing emissions right now I would fail visual or HC's or quite possibly both.

Yes long ago you could just remove the bcdd but due to age the gasket is extremely brittle and almost disintegrates when separating the two. I have tried on 2 others that's why my request.

I bought #304!

I doubt he'll sell for $15k, if so I'll be a buyer ?. He's got a nice example.

I agree with not bundling wires together that why I would use wire separators

HaHaHa! 'Ole Hoover bag.

Don't forget the sucker fish look

You will find the hell in Shell!

I seem to remember that classictube had SS lines? https://classictube.com/?s=Datsun&search_id=1&post_type=product

I believe you've found the winner Granny. If it was blue with white stripes, definitely.

Cool tool. It's not a direct measurement of airflow (like the flowmeters are), but it's better than nothing. I assume set them to zero (or at least the same between the two) to match them before starting the engine? There's no guarantee that the distance from the top of the carb dome to the piston inside is the same between carbs. I would also be a little tentative about driving around with those on the car. You won't have any suction piston damping and will lean burst when you press the gas pedal. One backfire (front fire?) and your dial indicators will likely be slammed to the limit and probably damaged.

I believe Motorman is getting very nice paint jobs for a lot less than 15-20k. I would consider shipping any car I got down to his painter. I believe he is in San Diego. He does lot's of Z's

Pretty much every Z I've messed with is in this category. AFM's adjusted to account for vacuum leaks. Idle speeds adjusted to account for BCDD leaks. Etc...

Cross firing.

Glad to help in my own little way!

Just a notch above this one,

A 27mm or 1 1/16" socket, if your hands are skinny enough you can just get a ratchet down through the fan blade to get at the main crank bolt otherwise you can get it for sure from underneath.

It might not be the prettiest, but at least it's not rusting away in salvage yard.

The bottom of a car door Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Just cause you can, doesn't mean you should.

Congratulations. Regarding reinstalling the old shoes: the lining will have significantly hardened/glazed over the years and won't provide a lot of stopping power. New shoes are pretty cheap and a good investment for your safety (and that of others). Been there, done that!

-40 here. Pic your own temp scale as it’s the same in both....

Ok, I got it. The adjuster is in the front of the wheel. I got both rear wheels off, took the brakes off cleaned and reinstalled. So I did my first rear brake job. Old parts, but now I know how.

You'll probably need to do the rears again. When I had my front calipers on the wrong side I couldn't generate much pressure or flow because the big air bubbles up front took all of the travel.

With the two hoses going to the can, and a filter on the top like you have it, you should have little issue with the carbs. Fuel injection on the other hand....

If the drums have lots of wear, that produces a ridge of metal that makes it very difficult to remove them. It gets much easier if you get the adjusters to move.

A buffing pad at slow in a drill press can give similar results. I use mine more for wire brushing and polishing than as a drill.

When I got my car the engine hadn’t run in 18 yrs. It was locked up big time. I pulled the plugs and poured Marvel Mystery Oil in the spark plug holes and let it sit 24 hrs. Tried to hand crank it was only moving a small amount. I cycled the wrench on the cam bolt turning it both CW then CCW. It would move on a few inches. Poured more in and let it sit another 24hrs and the next day it hand cranked right over. I also put assembly lube on the cam lobes before cranking with starter. She runs fine now and compression is in the normal range. So don’t be rushed...take it slow and work it back and fourth over time or you risk damaging something in there like a piston ring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Gavin , it could be AU market car . Does AU market car have a set of “ lowered coil springs “ like Euro cars ? The car looks slightly lowered at front , the gap between the tire and the fender .Optional item chosen ? This morning I took my 240ZG as a commuter to an airport. In a cold rain dawn , but comfortable cabin . Kats

I'd be surprised if that's legal in CA