chiefmd

Well after going thru every EFI check and confirming everything was within specs I was getting close to giving up. I kept thinking about what Zhead said about vacuum. SO I went in that direction but couldn't find and leaks. So I removed the EGR valve and started the car with the EGR port in the manifold open. The car idle at 800. So that led me to believe I wasn't getting enough air. I removed the hose that goes from the throttle body to the AAR and then removed the nozzle on the throttle body where the hose connects. Turned it over and the gasket on the bottom, WHICH I HAD MADE, was missing the center hole. I guess for whatever reason I forgot to punch it out. So, just want to thank everyone for their input and for making me think harder than I'm use to. Thanks again.

I have been following Jeff's videos. I will go review that video again. I do know that I have the washers installed and all was torqued to specs. Today I did take a vacuum reading from intake manifold and surprise surprise 3-5 lbs and 10 when reved. Not good

Zed Head- I checked my old distributor against the rebuilt one and there is about 1 1/2 dash mark difference which would be about 6 degrees according to the picture you supplied. The new distributor is set on the second dash mark from the top (as shown in you picture) while the old one was about 3 1/2 marks. Should I go ahead a reset to were the old one was (3 1/2 marks)? Do you think that would be the difference of 10 btdc and 15 btdc?

Well I placed it in the freezer for a few hours and then in hot water. Here are the results. When I took it out of the freezer is was about halfway open and after the hot water it was fully closed. So I guess it is functioning as it should. On to the next item.

I started with Zed Head process and decided to work on the idle issue first. Checked the AAR thru ECU for 12V, all good. I pulled the AAR and looked inside and there is about a 1/16" opening, I thought should be open about halfway when cold, right or wrong? Situnseen - I do have a vacumm gauge and will perform the check. Thanks for the article on installing shaft.

Zed Head - Thanks for the input. What I see with the timing light is correct and the mark on the damper is correct. Maybe I wasn't clear in my explanation but when the distributor is set at 10btdc it starts with no problem 1. Set at 10btdc it starts right up but won't maintain idle 2. Set at 20btdc it starts right up and maintains idle. 3. But at 20btdc I can no longer lock down the distributor as seen in the above picture. After removing the dizzy and looking at the shaft position (11:35) and what is stated in the FSM (11:25) I thought that by bringing the shaft back to 11:25 that it would allow me to lock down the dizzy and still be able to adjust it to 20btdc. First, does the 11:35 shaft position seem correct? Secondly, anyone have any ideas as to why I need 20btdc to keep it idling? Thank you

Today I had some time so I went out and started the Z up. Started right up (10btdc) but won't stay running I have to keep it above 1000rpm. So I decided to, again, adjust the timing to see were it would run the best. So I removed the lock down bolt so I could advance it and it ran better at 15btdc- 20btdc. I started thinking that maybe the shaft is off one tooth. I set the distributor to #1 compression TDC and pulled the distributor. The shaft is at 11:35 not the 11:25 as stated in the FSM (see pictures. On one picture (this is at 15btdc) you can see that I can't install the bolt in the retaining hole. Also, I placed a black line on the distributor rim for where #1 wire is on the cap in relation the the rotor. Do you think that moving the shaft one tooth over would get me back to where I would be able to run at 15btdc. Also, I read (somewhere) when removing the oil pump to reclock the shaft that I could use vise grips to hold the shaft in the 11:25 position while reinstalling the pump, yes or no. Thanks

Well I was able to get the movement I needed to lock down the dizzy and it is set at 10 degrees but that is it. Zedhead I'll look into your suggestion. Thanks all.

1977 280Z, mild cam. I have been finishing up my winter project and everything worked out except one issue, timing. I didn't open up the engine just upgraded the fuel injection system and upgraded the alternator and the old fusible links. New clutch/pressure plate, brakes, bushes, etc so I don't believe the shaft is off. I replaced the distributor with an O'Riely remanufactured one. The only way I can get 10 btdc is (see picture) to locate it outside of the locating plate bolt hole. When I purchased the car it ran good just need some TLC. When I removed the old distributor it was located down so I know it was in the correct position. My question is do you think if I loosening up the bottom bolt on the distributor lock down plate it would allow me to move the distributor so that I insert the upper bolt. Thanks

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Thanks Z Head. I agree with with the poorly assembled". I 'll go thru all appropriate checks.

Decided to replace the old worn out distributor on my 77 280z. Received the replacement and decided to check the air gap and its greater (about twice) than what the FSM recommends. So I thought maybe I should check the original dizzy and it to was well over max recommended setting. My question is should I go ahead and set the new distributor to the factory setting. Thanks PS Forgot to mention that the car did run before I pulled the distributor, but it was running rich.

Thanks for the input. Did remove the frame and the 4 screws and just lifted the window out. Thanks again.

Getting ready to install new door cards and mirrors on my 77 280z. Looks like I have to remove the door glass to fit the mirrors. I would like to just remove the glass but the FSM isn't overly clear as how to go about this. From what I can see there are four screws that hold the window to the mechanism. I'm hoping that I can remove the screws and lift the window out of the tracks, am I correct. If not, any assistance on how to remove just the window would be appreciated.