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Well, according to the info Zed Head posted above, the longer spring goes on the RH side.

Sigh...

The difference is modern bumpers are TPO (Thermoplastic Polyolefin) and a urethane bumper is different. I routinely plastic weld TPO bumpers for my cars I repair but Urethane bumpers can't be plastic welded. At least not in the traditional meaning. TPO is also stiff and takes paint better because it's more solid and less rubber like than urethane. Some TPO bumpers for 240z's would be very interesting

I’m working on getting my 240 back in road shape and I tried to change the transmission fluid yesterday but the fill plug seemed impossible to remove. I ordered a 17mm square socket to hopefully not round it off and doused it in penetrating oil multiple times. Any other tips and tricks? When is searched around I read that applying heat to the transmission body around the nut can help, is a propane torch sufficient? Also, any guesses on what is causing the oil leak on the rear of the transmission and what the black oil soaked wire running to the rear of the transmission is? Thank you.

Yes you're correct. However, will a customer accept an exhaust manifold that will start to show corrosion almost the minute he leaves my shop after spending X amount of $ for a Y operation? Asking rhetorically as the answer is obvious. Everyone and I mean EVERYONE was very happy with the Jet-Hot cast look including, but not limited to, the Franklin Mint car.

I have always wondered why a vacuum pump on a booster would not do the exact same thing as manifold vacuum. It would not even need to be that big a pump as the master vac is relatively small. Only need to maintain about 45 mmhg.

Zzzzzzzzzz…..

Not that weren’t expecting

I know most people on this forum want as much stock and original parts as possible but, at least it’s my opinion, maybe some modern upgrades / mods are in order to keep these cars on the road. Aside from all the aftermarket suspension upgrades I know that Apex Engineered also sells new steering racks (with right hand inner tie rods) and just the right hand thread inner tie rods. Replacing just the inner tie rod(s) for right hand thread once might be a good solution for the NLA drivers side outer tie rod. And yes Apex does sell them separately and in pairs. https://apexengineered.com/shop/s30-240z-260z-280z/inner-tie-rod/ No I’m not sponsored I just like what they’re doing and ordered some stuff to fix my 280z.

Been a while since showing 2446 bones…and she got good bones. Slowly finding time and discipline to prioritize some shop time. It is fun putting a few peices on the rear, dash will be coming out to recover. Had been a while since I have inverted to disconnect heater control cables….throttle lever cable at top of the gas pedal assembly…etc. rear panel is too dark, debating to reshoot to lighter shade….

I did the yellow/blue wire grounding test. I had both the Floor Temp and Fuel warning lights on. I guess I have an independent to the fuel sender's thermistor issue with the Floor Temp sensor. I will check the relay under the pass seat.

I dont believe the 510 has a rheostat

I am near Canada:)

$840 (plus shipping) at Motorsport Auto.

I appreciate the clarification. The articles I read did not provide that information.

Glad to help. Hope you make good progress and get things working well soon!

I stole this cassette from my step-a s s hole when I was a kid. When cassettes where still off white colored, before the clear ones. I listened to it so much I still know every word to all the songs but this was my favorite.

It doesn’t seem to be.

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/IMG_3902-1024x768.jpeg Happy 89th Birthday to our hero Peter Brock! You have been and continue to be inspirational to us Datsun fans worldwide. Here are a few pictures we enjoyed taking with you over the years: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/unnamed-1-1024x768.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/DSC05510-1-e1637002594621-1024x1006.jpeg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/lagunaseca2004153-400x300.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/IMG_2311-1024x768.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/IMG_9747-1024x768.jpeg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/sema-1024x1024.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/275435624_5253829184651694_278823018715978593_n.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/314962664_499938492181328_4586337483149355287_n.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/312177026_483959523779225_1687953212474383395_n.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/382583804_692126209629221_266883468108368867_n.jpg View the full article

$36,000

Thank you, Buddy.

Hi Bob: If you are still looking for a welder I would recommend Elhot Metal Fabrication. He is working inhouse at the Shop club on 6th Ave S. He has done rust repair on 3 of my cars over the last 20 years and he is top notch. Of course with 30 years of experience, he's not cheap. Cheers, Mark G

Update. It's been several months when I posted questions about a soft feeling brake pedal in my 79 zx. I checked the vacuun check valve and found it to be defective. I didn't even use my vacuum test equipment but instead just removed it and blew and sucked through it and knew it wasn't holding vacuum. I replaced it and now have very good, stock brakes again.

Yes, take it a lock smith. If the core can be removed from the cylinder it isn't that difficult to make a key. Key blanks are common. I can't recall if the core is wafers or pins. Come to think of it, it's a double cut key, so it would be a wafer lock. To remove the core from the cylinder without a key, not a big deal to pick the lock. I have no idea what a lock smith would charge, but it's not a big deal. When I closed my business I kept all the key blanks, I probably have what you need. Jim

This was a clue that it was an electrical problem. If the engine was still spinning because it was in gear then spark will still move the tachometer needle.