Topics Last Week

Like most car companies parts are made in different locations and shipped in for final assembly, in the case of the S30 model this was Nissan Shatai. From what you have said the engines were built in Yokohama, were the gearbox and other mechanicals done there as well. What parts were made at Shatai, the main body pressings? What were the other major sub assemblies and where did they come from? Do you have any photos of the Shatai assembly line and factory? What I have posted so far in this thread are from what was previously posted on these forums. Is there a document that details the procedure for the build. We know from looking at our cars that the bodies were welded together, then the sound deadening applied, gray primered, chip seal of the underside and then front wings, doors and cowling along with bonnet and hatch fitted before final paint. Interior and glass along with electrics fitted before the mechanical parts were then added on the assembly line. Is this the correct sequence?

Thanks for the info. The drivers side does not have that plastic piece. Assuming it broke off at some point in time. Is that going to be an issue. The passenger side seems intact.

With what happened to your fuel pump you shouldn't trust the accuracy of the (in tank) fuel sending unit. They get crusted up to. If the gauge goes to different spots when the key is on maybe it's okay. Don't want you running out of gas.

They may have sprayed clear over it.

Would have loved to go for a ride when we were at Zcon. If I had been feeling better we could have changed a radiator and then gone for a rip!

Woof. Glad you can salvage that! Yuck.

Refer to the figure below (taken from the FSM), which shows how the inner and outer rockers and the floor pan come together. The arrow on the outboard flange of the floor pan shows how the flange aligns with the inner rocker. Note the horizontal rib (with the 'hockey stick' shape at the forward end) that's pressed into Inner Rocker ('Inner Sill). The top of the Floor Pan's outboard flange (designated in the figure by the small black circle) should align with the lower edge of the rib. The line of spot welds that joins floor pan to inner rocker sits about halfway up the floor pan's outboard flange (see photo).

You meant N47 =MN47

I would also measure charging voltage with the engine running. Maybe you are over-charging. At higher than idle RPM, where max output would be high. "Possible causes are: Faulty charging system (stuck or shorted regulator/alternator)"

What a clever little piece! Never heard of that either

There are some clips that go on the cowl to protect the body. Similar to the 240z but a different part number. Can't even find a picture of those datsun 66312-A4900 A good glovebox A dome light for the cargo area of the wagon. They are different than the center domelight. I know I saw one for sale somewhere not that long ago but can't find it now Thanks, Charles

Working on PCV again, I am going to try for the exhaust. My basic plan is, valve cover to stock pcv valve, to a catch can, then block to the catch can, catch can to the exhaust.

Just incase you know anyone interested :) Something a bit different- a competition to win a 240z reprodution bundle. Win the bundle- £5 ticket. Enter Raffle to Win Datsun 240z series 1 reproduction bun...Reproduction fuse cover/ash tray for the 240z Datsun Series 1. Comes with asa silver ring insert, lid pins and a stainless steel snuffer plate. *not to be used with hot embers & Datsun 240z series 1

I bought some service tools off the bay decades ago. Along with two boxes, here's what I have.

The new flahers fixed the issue. We also connected the brake lights up so the JDM rear taillights are all connected and work properly

I think that the 720 71B's might be shorter than the ones frm the Z's. Something to check. Here's a very long thread from a guy who delved deep deep deep in to the 71B transmissions. HybridZHigh RPM shifting dynamicsTrying to understand the dynamics of high RPM shifting. Specifically why does my 1983 FS5W71B tend to grind slightly when shifting from 1st to 2nd at 7300rpm. When I rebuilt this tranny, i carefully l

Thanks Yes, I have found Zcardepot to be good communicators too.

Remove that variable and have it rebuilt. It looks completely worn out. Have them powder coat it while they have it.

Technics or tactics . They can be a MFers . I use the spot weld cutters you can buy cheaply anywhere . Predrill small hole for center pin and saw away . I did buy a pneumatic drill just for spot weld but it’s limited where it can be used . Finding the center of the spot weld helps to get all of the weld

My Zed club had it's last group drive for the year, yesterday. My car gal girlfriend was my navigator, as we drove the twisty roads thru Glen Valley in North Langley. Great day.

Yeah, I don’t think my 240Z bracket would work since the carb spacing is closer together on the L20. I need to hunt down someone near me with a 510 to prototype a kit.

Don't assume that new aftermarket u-joints will be better/tighter than used Nissan joints. Nissan's specification is very precise. Each joint came with clips of varying thickness so that play could be adjusted and set correctly. New aftermarket joints come with one clip thickness for all. I replaced a set on my car and they didn't seem any better. I actually removed them all and returned them. They were Precision from O'Reilly's. The Nissan joints are greaseable and are often just fine after a shot of new grease.

Pretty much rust free pieces from a 70 . Drivers side A pillar section and B pillar section . I won’t need these for my project . 250$ shipped for both

Cats can stop up and restrict the exhaust

Its a long shot, but putting a feeler out for a 3.364 R200. Looks like only the '79 4 seater manual transmission s130s had them stateside.