Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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Am looking for ideas for an improved fuel rail for my carb set up, one that looks cleaner and may have fewer touch points on the engine to heat up the fuel. Any ideas or thoughts? Thanks!
Last reply by Duffman, -
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hello everyone, i searched around and haven't seen anything related to my issue, i was wondering if anyone has ever just removed the stock airbox and air filter and just placed two cone style filters filters in its place... basically as seen like this kit: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PFFC20/11-4010KI will it do the same thing? if were to just mount two cone style filters? or is there more to this kit than just the air filters thank you
Last reply by Duffman, -
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I saw a listing on craiglist a N33 intake manifold for sale with remove emission..is this ideal for SU carbs and same performance as N36 intake?? Please let me know your opinion before i get them..
Last reply by pat furlan, -
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It's fun watching the wideband guage as the weather changes. Here in Indiana we just went from super hot and humid to 65 and no humidity and I watched her run lean. I have always kept it on the lean side, but WOW she really went lean this week. I fattened her up a good half a turn on the mixture nuts and boom -baby, it was a different engine. This to me is all the justification I need for all the work I'm putting in on my CAI for my Mikunis.
Last reply by Jetaway, -
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Found this today. It's large but a good one to have in your files. http://oto.to/schematy/gazniki.pdf
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Quick question, does filling the fuel tank to totally full serve as a reliable test to determine if the pick fuel pick up lines are working or in need of repair. Thanks zdude1967
Last reply by Duffman, -
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To all Triple Mikuni Owners: Please share your knowledge and tell me what size fuel line you ran to your triple Mikuni's...........thanks in advance! 40mm Mikuni's - Wolf Creek Racing Rebuilds I have been told: (Todd @ Wolf Creek Racing): Remove the current fuel rail Remove the current Mech Fuel Pump No return fuel line required Run: Tank to- In line Filter to- Electric Fuel Pump (5-9 psi) to- Fuel Pressure Regulator 3-3.5psi to- Fuel Filter to- Carb-Carb-Carb- dead head at end Heat Shield - yet to be fabricated - (does anybody have one you would like to sell - if so PM me) Todd is jetting and setting for my engine particulars and driving style (show and weekend cruis…
Last reply by Travel'n Man, -
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I have a 260z with 3 screw dome carbs. It begins to sputter and hestate at speeds approaching 100 mph. It seems fine up until the 100 mark then it is as if it becomes fuel starved. Any idea what this could be. Thanks Glenn
Last reply by zdude1967, -
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I have noticed lately that when my car is first warmed up the idle settles in at a nice steady 900RPM. However, if after it's warmed up I sit idling for a few minutes at a traffic light or at a drive through the idle will dip to 400-500RPM. The idle will stay low until I spend some time at higher speed (+50MPH?). When I stop from higher speed it will be back at 900RPM until I sit in one spot for a while and then I am back to low idle. The car runs great. No overheating and no stumbling at all hot or cold. It's not a big deal I'm just wondering if I'm the only one with these symptoms or if all 240Z's do the same. Car details: 3.0 liter, stock E88 top end, Ztherapy…
Last reply by Jetaway, -
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I've been doing all sorts of reading on forums, articles, and my repair manual about how to adjust the carbs on my 240Z. I'm running into a problem, though- the mixture nuts that I see on all the articles and in the repair manual look totally different from mine. As far as I can tell I have the early dome-top SUs, but these mixture disc-things on mine don't even look like what's on the later flat-top SUs. I'm obviously confused. Here are what I see everywhere: And here are mine. As you can see, where the mixture nut would be is just a disc. This is really halting my tuning process, as the standard mixture setting to start with is about 2.5 turns from bottomed out, …
Last reply by bounce, -
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Yesterday I removed the insulation from the fuel rail and lines that was installed in about 1975. As others have noted, this appears to be made of asbestos so caution needs to be taken when working with it. Underneath the old insulation I found that much of the flexible fuel line was original to the car. Does anyone know of a source for replacement fuel line that looks like the original? It has a black braided fabric cover over rubber. I've searched all day and all I can find that is braided is metal. Thanks. Peter
Last reply by zcarnut, -
- 10 replies
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Hi guys, i am having a problem with the fuel part of my car. I few weeks ago i have driven my gastank too empty and i guess there has become sludge in my fuel lines, fuelpumps and fuelfilter and carbs. I have already cleaned the carbs, en the fuel lines from the filter to both the carbs. What i have experienced is that when i try to start the car it will start with a small amount of choke. ( thats normal when starting the car when cold ) when i am going to drive and put in the gaspedal the car will stutter and bangs out both the carbs ( the first carb more ) and out of the exhaust back. this continues all the way untill i loose the pedal and put it half way. the it drives…
Last reply by Bruce Palmer,
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