Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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1,450 topics in this forum
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ok i just got myself a 260z ('74 shell with a 75' engine) it hadnt had fuel through it in about 15 years. so i removed the plugs oiled the cylenders and all the rest. and any way it started on maybe 2-3 cyl and was smoking like crazy, im putting the smoking down to oil leaking thru the valves over the years. its not runing very very rough on 4 cyl. but it still smokes and wont idle...foot to the floor to get it to run. ive worked out that all the jets are just pouring out fuel and flooding the engine. im guessing i need new needles and seats in my carbs, were can i get kits, how do i do the replacment. and could there be anyother ideas/ reasons to why my cars being a pain…
Last reply by Linguini, -
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K&N filter 1 2
by Randalla- 13 replies
- 2.2k views
I see K&N makes a filter to fit the standard 240-Z air box and was wondering if anyone is running one and if there is any perceived difference in how it flows vs. the standard filter (the metal one with the holes in it). The K&N is approaching $50 and the OEM type filter retails for about $10. Since the filter is inside the air box there's no eye candy to offset the additional cost. So....any difference in performance at all???
Last reply by Oiluj, -
- 8 replies
- 1.7k views
I am restoring a 71 240z with fibreglass rear quarter panels. The installer of the panels did not remove the fuel filler line (~ 2.25" pipe) directly below the gas cap because of either laziness or because of hole size. I now wish to remove it and install it properly but I will have to cut it out as it is sandwiched at the top between the quarter panel and some inner metal . It is not pliable so I can not pull from the top or bottom (the 3 big philips screws on the back are off) Since the existing line is very hard and it seems harder than I recall on my 280z; I am hoping that a replacement part will be pliable so that I can fit properly. Does anyone know if these lines …
Last reply by chaztg, -
- 4 replies
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Hi, all. 1972 240Z, electric fuel pump, 280ZX Dizzy, otherwise dead stock on the "go" side. My little town sits about 30 feet above sea level. In a couple of weeks I plan on heading up into the Sierras for a driving around vacation. I suspect I won't be below 3000 feet most of the trip and will quite likely get up well over a mile above sea level. I seem to remember from back in the pre fuel-injection days that high altitude adjustments were necessary, or at least desirable for performance and drivability. Just using the mixture knob, what sort of adjustments should I make? A ballpark suggestion is all I'm looking for, I'm not so OCD as to retune for every 1000 foo…
Last reply by Jetaway, -
- 3 replies
- 1.9k views
Does anyone know of a shop or individual that can tune SU carbs in central NC? I live in Asheboro, NC (south of Greensboro) and I am in dire need of tuning. Any help would be much appreciated.
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
- 1 reply
- 3.1k views
I have the opportunity to buy an engine/5speed tranny combo with complete triple SK Racing carbs on it. Guy wants $750 for everything. Tranny is a 5speed. I think the carbs alone are worth the asking price. Anyone have an SK service manual?
Last reply by chaztg, -
- 7 replies
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I have a 260z with 3 screw carbs. It is running so rich that the fresh oil on a fresh rebuild is dirty and fuel smelling with only 2.5 hours of driveway idle time on it. Carbon fouled plugs, toxic exhaust. You get the picture. I spoke to Bruce the other day and was given some great hints. In any case I took the pistons out today to check the needle jet height and found that no matter which way you turn the mixture screw located under the carbs -all the way in either direction it seems my jet does not move. I have included some photos. I guess I am trying to understand what part of the jet is susposed to move. I assume it is the center bit, the part that is down about 3/16…
Last reply by zdude1967, -
- 15 replies
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:finger:Pulled the tank on our 260Z in 3 hours it was not very dirty inside which is good. The sending unit also was good and since I drained 5 gallons it was right on reading a quarter tank. But this makes no sense inside rattling around was a coil spring 4 inches long and about a inch and a quarter diamenter clean as a pin.........What is it for and do I need it? I will put 3 gallons of white vinegar inside and caps all the lines into the vents etc. The new Holley pump should fix the issues because I suspect that the old pump was spitting and did not get it up to the front pump. Do I need that spring or maybe it has been in there for decades?
Last reply by LeonV, -
- 1 reply
- 1.4k views
Hi all Carburetors domes with 3 screws. The carburetor is different from front to back. Change the jet valve (brass body 1.7) In front of the brass body longer, and behind the short one? Thanks
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
- 3 replies
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First, I will admit I did not check every thread to see if the info I seek is already there. But I did look and did not find it out in the open, so... First a little history; A while back I bought (rescued) a '72z in much need of TLC. The PO had removed and replaced the stock SUs and installed an MSA downdraft Holley and manifold. As my son and I were about to drive off it ocurred to me to ask "what happened to the old carbs?". "Oh, that", he said. They had removed and thrown them into a trash bin in the back yard. We sifted through the bin and collected all parts that we could. Once we got home I organized the parts and found that the connecting linkage was missing. Now,…
Last reply by al'z, -
- 2 replies
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So I've had my 260 for a while now, and when I tuned the carbs in the past I've used a unisyn to balance and done the rest by ear. But this week I looked up more advanced ways of tuning like using a vacuum guage and using the tabs on the bottom of the carb to lift the piston.(I also tried using a colorTune but it turned out to be the most worthless thing I have ever bought, my engine was almost stalling on the road when it told me I was in the "bunson blue perfection zone") After using all these tests(besides the ridiculous colorTune) they all imply that I am too lean no matter what I do. Float bowls as rich as they will go and mixture knobs all the down. The car runs fin…
Last reply by Travel'n Man, -
- 10 replies
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Hey guys, background on the car: 73, l24 with weber downdrafts, 280 dist. of an unknown year, Timing is at 14 at idle, and an Electric pump at the rear. Problem: Ill be cruising at freeway speeds(60-75) and the car will just lose fuel delivery. You can hear the carbs sucking in air. IT will buck as it gets the occassional taste of fuel. Ill have to limp my way over to the side of the road. Add fuel with my little 1.5gl gas can. Luckily I have made it to gas station each time. My gas guage doesnt work by the way. On top of that I only get to drive about 40-60 miles each time before this happens. Which means im only getting 6-8mpg. Im trying to get this fuel delivery probl…
Last reply by ShakotanLife,
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