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Halo8u

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About Halo8u

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    Male
  • Map Location
    Randleman, NC

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z

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  1. ***Update*** Hooked up the new ignition components, car has great spark, and runs. I'm going to also swap out the gas for a higher octane and give an in depth analysis on how it runs with the new components. All in all, I have spark back, and I'm a happy camper :) a few more notes: I went with an 'Accel' ICM, on an ACDelco heatsink and a MSD blaster 2 ign coil. Also used 10g wire for everything. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  2. Hope so, I hate spending money, but god do I love ordering car parts haha. I'll update you soon. Any recommendation on a specific hei module? I wish I wouldn't have accidentally broken the coil that was originally in the car. It was an old school Mallory. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  3. Also my test was from + to - on the coil which I got .2ohms, second test was from + or - (I tried both) to the center. Which I got 5.4kohms. Just to clarify how i reached those numbers. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  4. Gotcha. And my module is kinda funky looking, discolored in the middle, I would guess heat. But, I need a better heatsink and mounting surface anyways. I'm going to get a new coil and ign module with a heatsink. This setup has seen hell from trying to revive the car. With crappy wiring too. Now that I have new wires, itd be good to start with all fresh parts. I'll order the parts tomorrow and update you when they've arrived and I install them. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  5. Got my specs from MSD's website. Blaster 2 coil is .7ohm primary and 4.5k secondary. I dont even know what primary and secondary means in this application honestly. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  6. The test you told me to do got me around 5.4k ohms. Spec says it should be 4.5k Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  7. So, primary resistance should be around 0.7 ohms, I'm getting .2 Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  8. Could be, I put my multimeter in the wire coming out of the coil that goes into the dizzy and have constant 12v from that Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  9. I'm getting full 12v from the coil to the dizzy cap. So the coil is fine, so my issue is now leading me to a distributor issue, maybe. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  10. Well now I can't get any spark to start it and check haha. And yeah, I thought it was good in March too. Weird thing is that it idled fine back then too. Idling at 800-900 perfect. It just started doing this weird spark drop thing recently, and I haven't messed with any wiring. Kinda pointing towards a faulty piece of equipment rather than a wiring issue. Either dizzy or the ign module. Also, the dizzy is reading 720ohms.... that doesn't sound right compared to 250 .... dizzy could be done for Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  11. Fuel pump is electric in working order. I have it wired manually to a switch. I have an Edelbrock 5-7psi 38gph pump running to a holley 4 barrel 390cfm carb. Fuel and air seems not to be the issue as it was running great aside from spark cutting out (I have dialed in the carb as well). The ignition system is almost completely isolated from the cars harness aside from a few wires (tach, and a few grounds). That's the reason I'm thinking it's the ignition module itself. It had spark before, now it doesnt after the rewire. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  12. Let me break down what happened. -attempted to swap wires on 'G' and 'W' -depinned my 'G' lead when pulling it -rewired it, car did the same thing even when switched. -tested my positive lead coming from my harness to my unit, turned out I was getting a fluctuating voltage, and it would cut out after a few seconds. -decided to clean up my old crusty wires and rewire everything -ran a new 12v to my unit, confirmed 12v -now I'm at a loss So im not sure what the coil and ballast resistor are supposed to read, but I'm getting 12v on both posts of my ignition coil, and 12v on my + and - on my ballast resistor. I could be wrong, probably am, but naturally I would think I would have 0v on my - lead on my coil, and my ballast resistor. Lack of knowledge and from so much digging has me at a loss. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  13. Additional note** old wires were pretty crusty, that's my reason for rewiring it. And to tidy up my engine bay too. Air gap looked in spec Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  14. So I rewired all of my ignition system. Confirmed 12v at coil. But my leads coming off my dizzy are getting 1.3V in the "On" position. Pretty certain my wiring is correct, could I have burnt out my hei module when I rewired it? Not sure what's going on Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
  15. Another clue, the tach drops first and then the engine dies. Immediately after. So now I'm almost 100% sure it's something to do with the ignition system, i.e. a swapped wire or a poor ground. What all is involved with adjusting the air gap? Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
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