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Found 7 results

  1. Hey guys, back again. 71 240z is running great, but I cant get the tach to work. I have a .3 ohm Pertronix coil and Pertronix Ignitor. I have tried the stock wiring, and various other wiring, but to no avail. I did notice that there is a GW wire, a larger BW wire, and the another smaller BW wire wich is conjoined with a B wire via a coupler. Right now I have the GW on the front side of the ballast along with the conjoined smaller BW and B wires, and the larger BW wire on the rear side of the ballast along with the R wire from the Ignitor. The B wire from the Ignitor is on the - post of th
  2. Hi all, have been reading these forums for a long time but first time poster. Happy to be here I bought a 71 240z that was sitting for 4 years. Engine is complete, and cranks well but does not start. I already suspect a carb rebuild... But I thought I'd start with spark. When I first got the car in my garage I noticed no spark at all from the coil to the valve cover, cranking or not. Saw that the guy i bought it from wired the Pertronix Ignitor negative wire to the positive post on the coil, and the positive wire from the Ignitor to the ballast resistor. Since its a 3ohm coil, I wired the
  3. This morning i decided to swap the ignitor installed on my 240z and after opening the distributor cap i notice something is missing, i guess it could be the ground wire,so i fabricated one with 2 terminals and installed a new pertronix ignitor model 1761 together with a 40511 new 3.0 ohms ignition coil. The car cranked up fine, but whenever you step on the gas the tachometer does not read correctly. Once it reaches to 5,000 RPM it jumps to 7000 goes back to zero, etc. If you have the car parked and step on the pedal it raises to 5,000 goes back to zero. Bottom line it is not Reading as it us
  4. Alright guys so I was planning on using a Mallory MAL 2363901 distributor and pertronix in my 11/70 240z but I just got an email back saying that they're discontinued and sold out. Every other place I've tried online seems to be sold out as well. I'm thinking of going with the Mallory unilite with mechanical advance (no vacuum advance) coupled with pertronix and was hoping someone else here might have had success with it and can give me some info. I'm going to be installing triple mikuni carbs shortly and plan on keeping the ballast resistor and using a 1.5ohm coil as well. If someone has done
  5. I've seen some walk throughs(mustangs..) that show that this has a plastic gauge to set the gap, but mine didn't come with that. has anyone installed one of these systems>? (this is actually on my '72 skyline, not a Z, but i bought a Z ignitor.. they don't make one for the skyline) My L20 engine is pretty much the same as the Z, just smaller.
  6. Like the title says, I've given up. Over the past 2 years or so, I've wasted a pile of time trying to get electronic ignition into my 240Z. And I've failed. I could never get anything working well enough that I could be happy with it. I've tried two different ZX distributors, a total of three different E12-80 modules, a Pertronix ignitor in the stock 240Z distributor, and four different coils (original 240Z, original ZX, new aftermarket ZX & 3.0Ω Pertronix). It's worth noting that all three of the distributors I've tried had good vacuum advance units and no slop in the shaft bushings. Good
  7. '73, stock distributor, Pertronix Igniter, MSD 6A. Symptoms started one day last week after winding out 2nd gear. My tach jumped from around 4K up to around 6K, then back down to around 4K. After that, the engine was running roughly, not revving easily, and backfiring under anything more than light load. I thought maybe a plug was fouled because it definitely felt like it was down a cylinder. Here's what I've done: 1) Changed the plugs 2) Checked to make sure the distributor didn't move. 3) checked the cam timing, thinking it was timing chain slip or the tensioner broke. It was dead on. 4) Ch
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