SteveJ

IIRC, the bulbs in the 240Z ground to the gauge housings. Make sure the contact surface between the gauge and socket are clean, and make sure the gauges are secured tightly to the dash with no corrosion. Finally make sure the dash is secured tightly to the body of the car also with no corrosion in the contact surface.

Here's a rumor about when Nissan will start taking money/commitments... https://www.newnissanz.com/threads/nissan-z-order-books-open-november-15th.406/?fbclid=IwAR0k2V5ggZeZ5ihwHL3M0T13XX11mghp1Fhekem8wsLwgEds6q61eb1vVSQ

NW Pennsyltucky is more like Cleveland, Pittsburgh, Erie or Buffalo. That would be quite a trek for the Captain. @GoldAirWith living in the land that rust forgot (for the most part), why are you considering a Z from the land where rust never sleeps?

LEDs are high resistance and not very voltage sensitive. If you leave an incandescent bulb in that circuit, you'll have a better idea of whether or not the car is charging.

I'd bet that if you used a multimeter on resistance, it would probably have no resistance to the negative post on the battery, provided the battery is connected.

If you are referring to the white wire with red stripe, that connects to the BATT post.

As @Zed Head said, the stud for ground is just above the E in your picture (1). The condenser (2) and the black wire (3) are attached to the stud. If you are missing the nut that goes on the stud, go to your local chain auto parts store and get one of those boxes of assorted metric fasteners (nuts/bolts/washers). It should probably be an M6 or M8 nut. You'll also want a flat washer and lock washer to help secure the condenser and ground wire.

Just a suggestion: if you're parking in a space like that, put the boot on the front tire. If the potential thieves have a tow truck with a grabber, they can pick up the back end and pull the car out easily.

I did some more searching. The hose piece is NLA, as I suspected. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-hose-filler~17229-p8200.html https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-hose-filler~17229-p7100.html You may be able to take measurements of your old hose, if that's what you need, and find parts on this site to fabricate your own: https://www.fillernecksupply.com/1979-1980-1981-1982-1983-nissan-280zx-fuel-filler-neck-gas-tank-pipe/

The steel part may be available here: https://zcarsource.com/fuel-systems/gas-tanks-components/gas-filler-hose/ I saw a couple that included the rubber coupler on ebay.

Costco has the Quickjack 5000 on sale again. https://www.costco.com/quickjack-5%2c000-lb-capacity-portable-car-lift.product.100460313.html

Well, you could always move the connector from relay 5 to relay 2 and see if it works. If it does, you know you have a spare EFI relay.

The connector for the fuel pump relay is plugged into the inhibitor relay. I am guessing you have a manual transmission. The inhibitor relay is used in cars with automatic transmissions. I haven't checked, but I wouldn't be surprised if the part number for those relays are the same. It could be the case that the fuel pump relay failed so someone moved the connector over to the inhibitor relay.

How are you measuring temperature? Via the gauge? With an infrared thermometer? At what point in the system were you measuring the temperature? I will tend to agree that a 12 inch fan may be too small. Things to consider: Water pump - Are the impeller blades corroded to nothing? Gunk in the system - Have you flushed the cooling system? Lean combustion - Lean is hotter. You might want to take the radiator cap off when the car is cool and watch for coolant flow when the car is running.

No, it goes to the black/white wire on the resistor.

In controls vernacular the yellow wire is a "signal". In this case, the ignition being on signals the fan that it is okay to run if the engine is hot.

If you have a stock setup on your ignition, you are wiring it contrary to the instructions you posted. So, here is how you should have the control box wired to the car according to the instructions: Black - Grounded Green - Nothing (assuming you don't have AC) Yellow - To the black/white wire at the ballast resistor Red - Battery Note, if you have the red and yellow reversed, the car will probably die/not start because you are trying to draw too much current from the ignition circuit.

Does a land speed record car count as a race car?

The FSM has the specs for the valve adjustment. This is a popular procedure: https://web.archive.org/web/20080720024048/http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=12&uid=786489&gid=1803105

Before you go too far, I think I have a 240 fuel gauge hiding somewhere in my parts collection. I can open it up and do a video of the measurements so you can copy the steps.

That color interior is one of the most endearing things about cars from the 1980s.

Were you directing him toward the red/black that Linda Hood used to own?

You can also get a pocket sized version: https://www.ebay.com/itm/122659922684 By the way, the 11(now 13) mile 10AE ZX will be at ZCON this year. I'm scheduled to make a video of it next month.

What do you mean: an African or European driveshaft?

Do you have a 260Z, too? What carburetors do you have on it? Let's make sure you have the same issue because you may need a different solution. It might be good to start your own thread.