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SteveJ
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Everything posted by SteveJ
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You will need a probe that can reach inside the connector at the fuel pump relay. That will also mean you will need someone to move the flap in the AFM while you are measuring voltage. You will not see voltage for the fuel pump relay unless the key is in START or unless the key is in ON with the AFM flap open. -
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Don't look at the fuse. Pull and test for continuity or just replace. Fuses are cheap.
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Again, it's most likely the fuse. One of the idiosyncrasies of the headlight wiring is that there is one positive to each headlight and two negatives. This is why a bad fuse shows up as a dim headlight. Here is a breakout of the circuit with arrows to show current flow with a positive to negative convention. Treat the filaments as resistors for modeling what it wrong, not as coils. Most of the current going through the right headlight is going through the high beam filament, to the red/black wire, to the high/low beam switch, and on to ground. However, the saying "Current follows the path of least resistance" isn't really correct. Actually MOST of the current will follow the path of least resistance. Some of the current can find an alternate path to ground. It goes through the low beam filament, over to the low beam filament of the left headlight via the white/red wire, through the high beam filament of the left headlight, and out to the red/black wire. The high beam of the right headlight sees enough current that the brightness appears normal. Meanwhile, the left headlight has about an amp flowing through it. If you were to measure the voltage drop across the filaments you would see something like this (with a 12VDC source): Right High Beam: 12VDC Right Low Beam 4.55 VDC Left Low Beam 4.55 VDC Left High Beam 2.90 VDC Light output falls off drastically with voltage (https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2019/06/piston-slap-droppin-knowledge-on-headlight-wiring-voltage-drop/), so that is why the left headlight is dim with the loss of the left headlight fuse. If you don't believe me, do this test. Find a 240Z/260Z/280Z that has stock headlight wiring (no relay conversions). Pull one of the two headlight fuses. Turn on the headlights. @Randalla I suggest you try my suggestion first. It is EASY to change a fuse. Change the left headlight fuse.
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Two issues: 1. No low beams: The high/low beam switch is not making contact on the low beam setting. Sorry, I don't have it documented about taking it apart to clean/repair. 2. Dim driver's side: The headlights have a common grounding point, so unless the connector at the headlight is badly corroded, it is unlikely to be a ground. Check the fuse for the driver side headlight. Most likely it is blown, so the passenger side headlight is backfeeding through the driver side headlight. Several years ago, I documented how there is just enough current for you to see a dim headlight with a blown fuse.
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I actually know the car and owner. I'm surprised he is listing with an open title. He has owned that car for close to a year. I could have sworn he had Georgia plates on it when I saw the car at his house. I know he has flipped boats in the past. As for the setting for the photos, he's a realtor, so he knows good locations for the photos. The hatch is sketchy from the rust around the bolt holes for the spoilers.
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That's where I found them on the 78, and for the headlight relays, I was going to borrow power for the lights from the white/red wires on the ignition relays.
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That is likely a timing issue or the intake valves aren't closing tightly enough. It's difficult to guess without examining the engine. However, I suggest you get your fuel system working right. In the meantime other things to consider is adjusting the valves. Adjusting them cold is not the preferred way, but it will work.
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When I found the MIC parts in Google searches that gave links to TE Connectivity (current owner of the design), those pages had links to Mouser. Now if there was only a source for the old Yazaki rectangular connectors. Anyway, I think the 13 pin connectors are available from Mouser, so I guess I could make a plug-and-play relay solution for the 78. I don't think the 77 and earlier used the AMP MIC connectors. Would you happen to know? Now I started working on a CAD version of the 260Z wiring diagram. I'm not as skilled as @wal280z, but I need to teach myself more.
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Same to you, Philip. Here's hoping to meet again at a future ZCON.
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The 73 hazard switch is illuminated the same way.
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Thank you for taking the time to wrap up the thread, and welcome to ClassicZCars.
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It takes some creative thinking, but BE-3 gives you your guide to mapping out the relays. What the drawing does is show the wire colors going to the connectors. Turn the page sideways and look toward the right side. From the connectors, follow the lines down to the relays. That shows you the stock relays.
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Have you looked at the EE section of the 73 FSM? It's available on this website. Go to Resources and then Downloads. Also you probably have found the relays for the factory authorized/designed modification to add the electric fuel pump in the 73. I think the documentation on that is floating around in the downloads section, too.
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Well, I have the terminals and connectors. They look like they should work. I ordered 3 sets of 7 pin connectors and 20 male/female terminals.
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And it's a very good idea to orient the battery the way Nissan designed. I had a battery with the positive toward the engine, and it wasn't secured properly. When the battery moved, the positive terminal made contact with the engine. Lots of smoke and burnt wires. With the way Nissan oriented the battery, the positive is less likely to come into contact with ground.
Your battery cables are probably swapped. Again, the way to confirm is to measure voltage from the positive terminal of the battery to the body and from the negative terminal of the battery to the body. If the battery is connected properly, you should see 12VDC from the positive battery terminal to the body and zero from the negative battery terminal to the body. Nothing good ever comes from crossing the streams...
I responded to your other post: As I said in the other thread, you are leaving out important context of HOW you are measuring the voltage. Where are you placing the positive and negative probes? Adding to this thread, what is the voltage from the positive battery terminal to the body? What is the voltage from the negative battery terminal to the body? I have never heard of anything good happening to a 280Z if the battery terminals are swapped. Here is an example of checking for voltage at the coil. For your issue, you could put the positive probe at the black/white wire at the ballast resistor.
No. The HEI would replace the Transistor Ignition Unit (TIU). The ignition relay takes the burden off of the ignition switch. Instead of all of the current for circuits powered in the ON position going through the ignition switch (and decreasing the life of the switch), most of the current goes through the ignition relay that is cheaper and easier to replace should it fail. Your measurement has no meaning without context. What position was the key in? Which probe (positive and negative as plugged into your meter, not color) was touching where? The white/red wire should have 12VDC to ground all of the time. The black/white wire should have 12 VDC to ground with the key in the ON position. (Notice that I say "to ground". This means the negative probe of the meter should be touching the chassis of the car. You can use an unpainted bolt connected to the body for this.) If you are touching the negative probe to the white/red wire and positive probe to the black/white wire, you could see -12 VDC displayed on your meter if the key is not in the ON position or if the ignition switch is bad. The black/white wire at the ballast resistor is electrically the same as the black/white wire at the ignition relay. For the ballast resistor, the black/white wire runs from the ignition switch, through connector C-3 (and C-2), and over to the ballast resistor. If you have the key in the ON position, as I said in #2, you should see 12VDC to ground on the black/white wire on the ignition relay. If you do not have 12VDC to ground there, you will likely not have 12VDC to ground at the ballast resistor. At that point, it is likely that you have a bad ignition switch.
I happened to find the manual (right on the floor of my garage). It doesn't give any info on country of origin. According to the FAQs at https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/General-FAQ "Most of the products sold by Greg Smith Equipment are manufactured in Asia. We do not hide this fact. We could not offer the incredible pricing on all of our equipment if it was made in North America."
Better yet, look at the EE section of the FSM. If you have an original points-style VR, the procedure starts on EE-23. Keep in mind that the voltage is dependent upon engine speed and ambient temperature. The chart in the FSM is for 2500RPM. You said the voltage was 14.45 @ 2000 RPM. Given that the temperature was probably between 50 and 60, I will repeat that I don't see a problem. With only the engine running, you're not pulling much current aside from topping the battery back off and firing the ignition. Swap the brake lights and turn signals to LEDs, and you probably won't see the ammeter needle move much of any time.
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