SteveJ

From previous posts by @Awk34, it does appear as though he is running carburetors. I remember a few years back at a car show, a young man was asking me about what ECU I was running in my car when I was still using SUs. He didn't understand for a while that the car did not need an ECU for fuel or spark. Perhaps @Awk34 is trying to put a digital gauge in the car to replace the stock water temp gauge. If that's the case, I wonder if he wants to keep the oil pressure gauge. Remember the old days when most of the signals we used were 4-20mA or 0-10VDC?

Check all fuel lines from the tank to the nozzles in the SU to make sure there are no kinks that could restrict fuel flow. Check float levels. Make sure the vent line from the engine bay back to the tank is in good shape and will allow air into the tank as a vacuum will reduce fuel flow. Make sure the carburetors are balanced at idle and at 2000 to 3000 RPM. What block/head? What is the compression on the engine? The detonation could be a separate issue. It could even be crappy, low octane CA gas.

Shunt

I just got my friend's reply: "Fill the air inlet of the impact with air tool oil, connect the air and then blast away at the nut. The oil prevents air from going out of the vanes of the impact, and will produce significantly more torque than just air."

I think this is what my friend suggested. Otherwise, it's probably a matter of bolting the engine to something very solid and getting a four foot pipe to put over the end of a wrench (800 ft-lbs).

I sent an email to a friend who gave another friend some suggestions on this same topic about a year ago. I'll let you know what he says.

Z Club of Texas is in the DFW area with the emphasis on Dallas. I don't think they have activities in Houston. I tried to find a Houston based Z club for someone who was on FB asking early Z questions, but it appears as though the Houston club folded a while back.

The carburetors installed on the car are Weber 32/36 downdraft carburetors. The air filters on those carburetors are typical for that type. The SU carburetors are side draft. The fuel rail definitely isn't stock. The stock fuel rail has a return. On this car the fuel rail is dead-headed going to the carburetors, and the line back to the tank has a redneck plug on it. As for how long the car has been sitting, my 73 has been sitting in my garage for 11 years, and it has less dust on the engine than this car.

The purpose of the EGR is to reduce NOx. Octane won't affect that. A good cat might.

He won't if the person doing the visual knows what to look for. That's the problem with California. You could modify a car to put out only carbon dioxide and water vapor, but if it doesn't have the factory parts, you fail emissions. Frankly, @280zdude could install a MS with an O2 sensor and tune it to have better tailpipe emissions, but he couldn't pass CA emissions because MS isn't CARB certified.

LOCK - All power is off. Steering wheel lock is engaged. OFF - All power is off. Steering wheel is unlocked. ACC - Only accessories are powered (radio, fan, etc.). No engine power. ON - Accessories are powered. Engine components are powered. START - No accessory power. Engine components are powered. Solenoid is energized to engage the starter.

No, the pump primes in the START position. Incomplete information. That's like saying "My feet hurt when I stand up" without you mentioning that you're barefoot and surrounded by Legos.

Well, 76 in the bottom photo. 😉

I asked my wife to see if she could match the background color to the blue in the logo. She got pretty close with #101a66.

You better believe that the last time I was welding I was wearing a welding helmet, welding gloves, and a welding apron. Of course, since it was summer in Georgia, I was wearing a tank top. I got a good sunburn on my arms from the welder.

Well, the almost annual collapse of a section of PCH happened. If you watch the video, you'll see a gentleman with a 280ZX was interviewed. https://www.cnn.com/2021/01/30/us/big-sur-road-collapse-trnd/index.html

@dutchzcarguy - I designed this on Signs.com as an aluminum sign Dimensions are 24 inches wide by 6 inches tall. The font is "Headline News". Here is the logo I used: It looks to be $24 USD plus shipping.

This should work for you.

From the 2019 Mitty: https://photos.app.goo.gl/VxgzchtwdDmRiq3X9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/Kef8DP4QmWmeBref8 https://photos.app.goo.gl/VxgzchtwdDmRiq3X9 From the 2018 Mitty (Datsun was the featured marque): https://photos.app.goo.gl/4QDG93YOtzIidJqo2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/Pvn46wZtxfB9EAwt9 (with John Morton walking his line from under the bridge into the last turn) https://photos.app.goo.gl/HduDaGMcpIzEMFk63 https://photos.app.goo.gl/PXzS1oiRbWiyPENcA John Morton going through 10B

I bought the sign many years ago, and I don't remember where I got it from. It was probably ebay or Amazon. I saw this on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-Parts-and-Service-Vintage-Metal-Wall-Sign-Plaque-Retro-Garage-Shed-Race/223538056895?hash=item340be80ebf:g:pLkAAOSwIbFc84KS I'll take a closer photo later.

Oh, I have been helping people out for a few years now. I just finally got smart enough to put the sign on the mailbox so they would stop missing the address. With the HOA, all of the mailboxes and houses look pretty much the same.

I thought this might make it easier for people to find my house when they come over for help.

I have a bunch of photos of cars doing that in Turn 10B at Road Atlanta.

Let's be specific and precise. Is there still a plate in the driver's side door frame? Can you read the date? What I post assumes that this fits into what is considered the 1978 model year. If I understand you correctly, when you put the key in the START position, the solenoid engages the starter. The starter turns the engine, and the engine fires. (The car starts.) When you release the key to allow the switch to go from START on ON, the car dies immediately or shortly after. (It doesn't run.) I'm not sure what you mean by running the fuel pump right out of the fuel rail. I will have to assume that you have an adequate supply of good gasoline to supply the fuel pump. Here are two possible causes for your problem (though there can be others): The back part of the ignition switch is failing. The circuit for the fuel pump relay is losing the ground at the oil pressure switch. How to diagnose (You will need a multimeter, i.e.: a meter that can measure voltage and resistance.): Ignition Switch Put the meter on DC voltage. If it has ranges, select the lowest range that is above 12 volts (probably 20). Put the positive lead of the meter on the positive terminal of the coil (black wire with white stripe). Put the negative lead on an unpainted surface. I like the bolts of the shock tower. Have someone start the car. You should see around 10 to 12 volts while starting. When the key is released to go from START to ON, make sure you still have voltage. If the voltage drops to 0 when the key is in the ON position, that means the switch is bad. Oil Pressure Switch Put meter on the lowest resistance range. The oil pressure sender has a "T" connector. The oil pressure switch connects to the vertical of the "T". Get one probe in the back of the wire to test. The other probe goes to an unpainted surface. Again, I like the shock tower bolts. Have someone start the car. As the car starts, you should see the resistance measurement go to zero (continuity). If the resistance does not drop, that means you don't have the probe positioned properly, or the oil pressure switch is bad. Let us know the results of these tests. Also, post pictures of you holding the leads in place and of the meter. Please don't post potato quality pictures. Sometimes people don't use the proper technique, and that provides bad results. I don't want you throwing parts at the problem. That gets expensive and frustrating.

To go with @Racer X's comments, hardware kits: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic19o And header gaskets: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic19a