SteveJ

So if you are ever thinking about buying the hose that Z Car Depot (@zcardepot.com) lists as being an alternative to the float bowl hose, don't! (https://zcardepot.com/products/carburetor-su-float-bowl-fuel-line-hose-240z?_pos=2&_sid=6edb73ed7&_ss=r) I used some of that hose on someone's car, and I couldn't figure out why the car wouldn't take load. I went to check the float levels, and this is what I saw when I pulled off the air cleaner. Those hoses aren't going to flow much under load. And I did cut them to the same length as OEM hoses.

I did that on a fuel pump. I transferred the diaphragm from a Delphi pump into a stock housing. I can't give a full report because I have to change out a rotten fuel line at the tank.

I have been working on a 280Z recently whose owner had someone install a rising rate (normally aspirated version) adjustable fuel pressure regulator. The person who installed the FPR did not connect it to a vacuum source. The owner connected the FPR to a vacuum port but reported no improvement in performance. He brought the car to me, and I researched the FPR. It actually called for a stock FPR to be in the circuit with the adjustable FPR. After looking over the car and tweaking some things, I took it for a drive. There was a stumble at throttle tip-in, but eventually it came to life. The wideband AFR meter matched my butt dyno. I could see the car getting really lean on the AFR meter at tip-in. I actually talked with the engineer who designed the adjustable FPR (Corky Bell), and he confirmed that my research was correct. The owner needed a stock FPR added in. So even with the stock ECU, the AFR meter can give you some good data with regard to something like an adjustable FPR. Frankly, I'd like to see a fuel pressure gauge and AFR meter side-by-side.

Differences: https://www.haltech.com/oxygen-sensors-and-wideband-controllers-explained/ If you're doing the O2 sensor for tuning, it's wideband all of the way. If you have a simple EFI system with an O2 sensor input and don't intend to do data analysis, narrow band will work. Mount it after all of the exhaust tubes come together and ALWAYS before the cat. You want to see what's happening inside the engine. How? Drill a hole into the exhaust and weld the proper curvature bung to the exhaust. About any decent muffler shop can do this.

You can download the FSM from Xenonzcar.com. Here is the electrical section: http://xenonzcar.com/z31/FSM/1988/EL.php

I didn't see anything in the options that would preclude you from seeing the album, and @grannyknotwas able to access it. You might try again, and send me a PM if you continue to have issues.

I took the 260Z out to a small car meet called Worship. The people in attendance were hard-core car people, and my car garnered many complements and plenty of interest in the throttle body fuel injection. There was also a modified 70 240Z there, owned by a friend who used to frequent this site. It always feels so great to take the car out for a drive. Here's a link to the rest of the photos from today: https://photos.app.goo.gl/k76JqGTjErk1JcFTA

Chances are that you could use some BSP threaded pipe for the crankcase. I'm not sure what size, though.

I didn't noticed that the site I referenced didn't have the two parts of the part number combined.

Crankcase connector pipe, part number 11830-E3000, http://www.jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=86&cartype=11&fig=C1401&page=3

Valve cover breather: http://datnissparts.com/valve-cover-rocker-cover-l-shaped-vent-fitting-elbow-datsun-l16-l18-l20b-l24-l26-l28-also-naps-z-z20-z22-with-the-aluminum-cover-13267-23000/

Valve cover hose: https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/hoses-pipes-valves-nissan-datsun-fairlady-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/braided-pvc-valve-cover-hose-for-datsun-240z?variant=750597969 PCV hose: https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/hoses-pipes-valves-nissan-datsun-fairlady-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/pcv-braided-hose-for-datsun-240z?variant=745241697

1&6 fuel in 2&7 float vents to air cleaner 3&5 coolant lines 4 vacuum line to brake booster 8 positive crankcase ventilation

All three can be accessed without dropping the transmission. You will need ramps or jack stands tall enough to get under the car, though. I haven't messed with the reverse switch in over 20 years, but I think you should be able to find a generic crush washer for the seal. The reverse switch at Rockauto.com shows a rubber gasket. The slave cylinder does not enter the transmission that has the gear oil. If there is a leak there, it may be the sign of a slave cylinder about to fail. (Photos are very helpful to show what you are seeing.)

It could be worse. I was looking at this site on Sunday with my phone, and one of the ads had a browser hijack. Fortunately deleting the data and cookies ended the problem, but it was still a PITA. Have you heard of anybody else getting a browser hijack from the ads, @Mike?

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-117-Electricians-True-Multimeter/dp/B000O3LUEI https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-115-Compact-True-RMS-Multimeter/dp/B000OCFFMW You can buy different kits with different leads, too. These are high quality meters that will last a long time. My Fluke is over 20 years old. If you want one that can be used as a tachometer for tuning/timing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-78-automotive-DVM/114457613333?hash=item1aa6349415:g:97YAAOSwYzBfgwF0

From what I saw during a quick look at ZCarDepot's site, it looks like they carry the Tabco panels. https://tabcoparts.com/cars/datsun/240z-260z-280z-1970-1978.html

I thought this video was interesting.

I decided to pull the trigger on a set today. Thanks for already giving me the tracking number, @Randalla.

Both, but I think they are different groups. I'm not sure how high the private trades are going, though.

Are you referring to when CO and I were discussing the GM coolant temperature sensor vs the Nissan cylinder head temperature sensor? That was when I was prepping for the fuel injection conversion on the 260Z. As @Zed Head pointed out, the curves for these sensors are not linear. For the CHTS, a resistor in series would keep the curve from moving the left. It would essentially stall out at the value of the resistor. A resistor in parallel would move the starting point of the curve to the right, but the effect could be diminished as the sensor resistance drops if the value of the external resistor was high (needed to keep the curve from starting too far to the right).

Yes, I'm thinking the park function in the motor may be the culprit.

That's what I get for reading posts on my phone and using my old bifocals. It sucks to get old. The alternative is worse. Anyway, that drier can be tossed. I suspect it really wasn't sealed tight, considering the duct tape, so it has seen more than a lifetime of moisture.

I think @S30Driver is correct. That looks like an AC driver to me, and it's definitely not stock.

Nice way to install the inertia switch on a 75-77.