Yarb

I’m troubled here. Why wasn’t the pressure measured after the mechanical pump before you made any decisions. The pressure is probably ok as @Racer Xmentioned earlier. Probably over thinking this. You don’t have a threshold of the current pressure.

Looks like you might have a timing cover crank seal leaking as well. Now is a good time to replace that as well.

If you’re that concerned about it just put a fuel pressure gauge between the pump and the carbs. IMO Adding too many variables for failure in the future.

Chime in gents, I’ve been told that you use 30W Non detergent in compressors. Did the labeling on the Husky bottle list what the contents and viscosity?

Buy one that includes the gauge as an assembly

But will they fit a 78 280. Have to check CarPartsManual manual

Well worth it. One and Done…IMO

Did you originally have the factory Bosch pump on the car? I know a lot of folks have gone the cheaper route with aftermarket pumps. A lot of threads out there with the aftermarket pump issues.

@SteveJI did not realize you had encountered this before. Maybe back in the day “World Parts” may have put this out there.

Better yet, who put it on there and why would you trust it? Wiring looks different. @SteveJ?

240Z I agree. Once you get to the 280z with the park bench bumpers is a different story. Don’t IMO believe they will ever come close to 240Z values.

I’ve never seen a ops on a S30 that looked like that.

Just looking at the thread. Does the fan have a separate relay with the 12v source going back to he battery? @SteveJ want to chime in.

Better to try an unmolested AFM than mess with the current one.

Definitely not a factory system. That pic spells it out. Vintage air is probably your easiest solution. Not easy but a solution. Your dashboard needs to come out as well.

Pics in the future would help us out tremendously. Could have answered your question in a couple of posts. Keep pushing on friend.

The panel @Captain Obviousposted is dead on identifying exactly what is installed. Also the vacuum bottle and solenoids on the passenger side strut tower

Not sure what direction you’re heading with your project, I can tell you that increasing the diameter up to at least 2” makes a difference in performance. These engines like to breathe. Just my 2 cents. I encourage others to chime in.

Have you given it the shake rattle and roll test. Good chance a lot of the internals of the mufflers have come apart.

Just recently removed my AFM bracket. No longer needed as I’m removing any brackets that will no longer be needed since I’m going to triple carbs. I had to sacrifice the bracket in order to drill out the spot welds. The configuration of the bracket won’t allow to get a spot weld cutter back in there unless you can find a long bit to clear the bracket. I can send pics if you like. Let me know.

Good decision friend, other battles ahead. Keep pushing on

@siteunseenthat is not a bad deal these days. Less than 3 bucks a piece. I’d give it a shot. Still can’t figure out why the lugs from the factory didn’t work. Maybe shipped the incorrect lugs. Gotta be a headache

Friend, I think you dumped oil out of the system. IMO That’s going to be a problem down the road.

Finished building my crate a few weeks ago. The idea was to use the existing mounting points and keep the engine suspended where the No possible damage could be done to the pan or the pump. Here are some pics of how it went together with screws and glue on the non removable sections. I secured a top plate on the new pallet. From there you can see how I constructed it. Upon completion the entire box enclosure can be lifted off by removing the screws around the base. Don’t have a pic of the handles installed on each end for removal. Pretty happy with the way it came out. The crate made it up to Eiji at Datsun Spirit unscathed via R&L carriers.